My Clock and Tripometer reset itself-Ideas??

Hey Everyone,

So... I started my bike (Green 5th gen) up for work this morning (just like most mornings) can you say cold outside??? (27 degrees). Anyways, when I hit the start button the bike almost turned over but did not. On the second time it started and sounded just like always.

Here is my problem: After starting the bike- it seems both my clock and my tripometer had reset themselves... Has this happened to others?? I am 99% sure the guy who owned the bike before me replced the R/R. Is this just my battery going downhill?

Anyone know how to set the clock on the VFR???

Anyway if anybody has any input at all that would be great.

Thanks,

 

What he said.

 

Same thing happened to me; its not Generation specific. My final resolution was to replace the battery. If you're not going to ride it for a few days then keep it on a trickle charger. If the battery has been in the bike and has not regularly been on a charger or sits for 3-4 days in a row without riding it (starting it won't help, it must be ridden) then this will kill a battery in cold weather faster than anything. Good luck.

 

+1 on the trickle charger... such a life saver.


absolutely necessary if you live in a colder climate.

 

thanks for the responses... I have been a little sick this weekend so I have not had a chance to do anything, but I am think ing maybe the battery is going... I will check it this week and reply back...

 

Yep. Sounds like the first move is to replace the battery. Especially if it a couple of years old.

I had kinda sorta similiar issues on my 96 for while, and didnt think it was the battery because it showed good on a load test. However I did know for a fact that the battery was at least 4 years old.

Replaced the battery, and have not had the same issues since.

 

Hi, Please read my thread titled 'LCD zero's when starting'. The guys are right.
I have fitted a new (Yuasa) battery. Problem solved. Good luck.

 

Yep... it was the battery. even though I ride to work most days, I don't think I go far enough (about 5 miles) to get a good charge in it (especially after sititng in freezing temps all night).

Thanks for all the responses..:thumbsup:

 

Same thing happened to me on Saturday. I was riding for a while. It was cold and wet. I stopped for a bit to thaw off and when I returned to the bike to start it it would not turn over. The clock and trip mileage zeroed out. I push started it and rode about 50 miles home. Once home, I shut it off and restarted it with not problem. I started it up later that night with no problem either. I will continue to monitor it but that totally threw me for a loop. It was fine and then the next thing I know, it doesn't start. Hope I don't need a new battery.

 

not sure if this applies... but on my old nighthawk i had a loose connection to the battery. Every rare once in a while it would not start up and then be fine for a long time. Try checking the connections to see if it is that.

Since I have charged my battery last week, everything seems to be good- but like you I am continuing to monitor... good luck!!

 

I see you got a reply on how to reset the clock. The clock and trip always reset themselves when battery volts drop very low, such as starting on a fairly flat battery.

It may well be that a new battery and regular charging sorts the problem. However, early VFR 800's (I also have a 98, bought new) can develop rectifier problems as the rectifier cooling is inadequate and the unit degrades over time. Honda sorted this on later bikes and any new unit you buy should not have the problem. I had this problem, bought a new battery and everything was fine for a while and then the problem started again. The problem can be intermittent.

If you connect a dc voltmeter across the battery terminals you should get just over 13V. This will dip as the bike is started, but should then come up to about 14V with the bike running. Like I said, the problem can be intermittent and can get worse when the unit warms up. I rigged a digital voltmeter to the battery terminals with the unit visible on top of the tank and went out for a ride. Sure enough, the volts were soon wandering - good for a while and then dropping as low as 9V - then back to normal, then wandering, etc. I bought a new rectifier and have had no problems since. The unit lives under the left side of the rear cover and is simple to change.