Front Fork Mod Height Adjust

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by risoto, Mar 1, 2009.

  1. risoto

    risoto New Member

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    I just got the air pressure crossover holes welded closed on an extra set of 83 interceptor fork legs. Used stainless filler rod really turned out nice.

    Now I can raise the fork legs in the triples to lower the front some. I think this will make the steering faster am I way off, can anyone explain?

    I was also thinking of cutting pieces from an extra set of stock springs to put on top of the fork springs to increase preload, has anyone tried this?
     


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  2. SLOVFR

    SLOVFR Member

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    Well in short to raise the forks up in the triple clamps you are shortening the rake (closer wheel base) so turn is is a bit faster. I would not raise them more than 10mm beyond stock though. As far as adding a spacer I wouldnt advise. However you should invest in a good set of aftermarket springs like RaceTech . There is a preload setting that is used to determine your fork/spacer settings. With the springs install and preload adjusted all the way out you want about 25 mm between the top of the fork tube to the bottom of the top cap measured before its screwed down. Simply adding in a spacer will result in you not being able to set a proper sag setting.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2009


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  3. risoto

    risoto New Member

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    Thanks for the explanation. I know I will eventually spring for the race tech, sonic, or progressive front springs. Still trying to figure out how changes will affect the handling. Is the 10mm arbitrary, geometry related, or due to clearance? Also will a smaller diameter rear tire affect wheelbase in turn steering, what about lowering the rear end and raising the front?
     


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  4. kawakiman

    kawakiman New Member

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    Interesting, I am looking to lower the front of my 83 Interceptor (short leg issues!). Is it necessary to weld up the air holes as they normaly only hold a few pounds of pressure so of little use?

    I see you are looking at a naked resto, I am still undecided on whether to restore mine to stock or at least change the front nose cone which makes the bike look very dated. I have to paint it soon so will have to decide on the colour scheme pretty sharpish!
     


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  5. GenLightening

    GenLightening New Member

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    On the front, you can check to see how far you can lower it by raising the front wheel off the ground and then removing the fork springs. Then you can compress the forks and see what will hit at full travel. Usually it's the fender into the radiator. Also, lowering the front too far, with the 16" wheel, will make it very nervous, or twitchy. You can add a longer spacer (not a section of spring, I hope I read that wrong) to increase preload, but you need to know how much you have now. It may be that the stock springs are partially collapsed and need to be replaced. If there were and you were to use a longer spacer, you may end up with a rigid front end. Not good.....

    Lowering the rear will do the opposite, it will tend to not want to turn quickly.

    Best thing to do will be to check what the sag is on both ends to determine what shape the springs are in. Messing with preload and height adjustments without knowing exactly what you're doing is just looking for a place to crash. Do a search on setting up motorcycle suspension and start reading.
     


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  6. GenLightening

    GenLightening New Member

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    You need to seal them up so the fork fluid and air (which is used as a spring too) can't find it's way out. I didn't go to the trouble of welding them up and I haven't had any leakage, even while racing.
     


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  7. risoto

    risoto New Member

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    Your bike looks too nice to strip. Yeah oil will pump out the air crossover passage if it isn't plugged.

    The nakedness is making my project take more time and cost more money. Since the gauges are part of a dashboard losing the fairing support and upper cowl leaves a bunch of exposed wiring and begs for waterproof gauges and indicator lights.

    So far I have a 7" round headlight with some ducati style fork clamps aftermarket speedo and tach and am making a small fiberglass panel to mount turn signal indicators and the neutral and high beam lights.

    Right now I am modding the wiring harness to move the fuse block, ignition switch and other non-essential connections closer to the battery, out of sight. Will be posting pictures soon as my project has sooo many hours and lots of new parts.
     


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  8. risoto

    risoto New Member

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    Yes - Thank you very good advice! I am using a 17" in the front and in the rear. I guess using extra springs for additional preload is a bad idea. May consider short spacers to decrease front end sag until I get new springs, unless one of you guys has an extra set...
     


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  9. SLOVFR

    SLOVFR Member

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    I do but Race tech calls for a different part number between the 84 and the 93-97 ?
     


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  10. risoto

    risoto New Member

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    Yeah and so close to home, I used to live in AG and love the south coast, if only there was work. I think the first gen bikes have longer fork legs, the part numbers are different for a reason though I will take some measurements just for curiosity sake.
    Thanks
     


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  11. SLOVFR

    SLOVFR Member

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    Shows how much Im paying attention, your next store! Use to everyone new being from east coast. I guess you will be at the BBQ then! If you need some help Reg, Tori or I are always willing to lend a hand! Brian
     


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  12. risoto

    risoto New Member

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    Didn't know about a bbq thanks for the offer of help. There may be a few tools I need in the not to distant future. Ride On!
     


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  13. SLOVFR

    SLOVFR Member

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