Oil change question

I just bought a 93 VFR750F. The guy who had the bike before me used a synthetic blend oil. The starter clutch just started acting funky. The mechanic stated that he does not recommend synthetic oil unless the manufacturer indicates it for your bike. He told me he has seen many bikes come in because the synthetic oil it causing clutches to slip and eventually go bad. My bike has a little over 50k I'm about to change it back to standard oil should I use 30 or 40 weight for the bike?

Also I'm about to put front and rear brakes on the bike is there anything special I need to do this? First time ever changing a bike's brakes... What is a good brand as well?

 

Hi, i also just got a '93 with a little over 50k miles. i just changed the oild and replaced it with rotella t 5w-40 (i think). and i am not having any problems with the starter clutch.

 

LOL not much of a knowledgeable mechanic there if that's what he believes. 50k isn't anything to worry about, I'd stay with the full synthetic if I was you. I use Amsoil in my bikes and have never had an issue because it's synthetic. Way Better stuff than Dino

 

yodasmile This might help on your oil question. It's from the VFR Wiki, found on this site.

Oil - VFRwiki

Oil is one of those topic that bring mixed reactions from everybody. So if you do a search for oil in the search box, you'll find plenty of threads.

 

Your mechanic is an IDIOT!!!:crazy: As long as you use a synthetic designed for motorcycles it will not cause any problems, and will most likely prolong the life of your engine, stick with synthetic unless you really belive its going to cause problems.

As for your brakes you shouldn't need any special tools, and as for brake pads do a little research there are many types and compounds to choose from depending on your riding style

 

I use Amsoil also and have had several independent mechanics (both auto and MC) swear by the stuff.

I had a in-law mechanic that also spoke highly of Chevron (I think) DELO400. The PO of my bike spoke praises for DELO400 oil. He would also add a zinc additive to the oil. I just decided to go with the Amsoil motorcycle oil since it already contained the zinc that is now being removed from many regular automotive oils. The PO really stressed the importance of the zinc. I trusted his judgement as he was mechanic and maintained his own airplane for what that is worth. Seemed intelligent and honest.

 

My 93 had a slipping clutch when I bought it too (54k miles). When I replaced the clutch they said to soak the plates in the oil I was using. I soaked them in Mobil 1 full synthetic MOTORCYCLE OIL and didn't have any problems with it after the change. I would suspect your clutch is wore out and it's not the oil (unless they used car oil). If I were you I would order a clutch kit and do an oil change with full synthetic motorcycle oil.

For brake pads I would use EBC HH.

 

As long as the previous owner didn't use automotive oil (with friction modifiers) then your clutch plates/springs are just getting worn. Nothing wrong with synthetic that is designed for motorcycle use. You can run oils designated for diesel motors that don't have the friction modifiers as well.

+1 on AMSOil but that stuff is SUPER expensive near me. Only place I've seen it on the shelf is The Anderson's in Toledo,OH and it's close to $15 a quart I thought.

I've used the standard Valvoline formulated for motorcycles. Autozone and Advance Auto Parts both carry it as well as some Wal-marts and Meijer though it's hit or miss with the latter two. It's around $3.50-$4 quart(goes on sale for about $2/quart).

I remember looking at comparison tests for motorcycle oils and Valvoline was pretty much in the middle as far as performance in shearing and what not. Amsoil was the best of the best beating out Mobil and Royal Purple overall. If you want more info, I think it was AMSoil that published the tests and they may be on their website if you want the details.




As far as brake pads go, the EBC HH are fine and I think the stock OEM pads are fine as well(I haven't had any problems and I weigh 345lbs and ride fairly aggressively).

For changing them you just need the hex wrenches and pliers to pull a pin on the rear set...well that was taking them off completely... I can't remember if you just loosen the pins to put the pads in or not( I was doing major suspension work where I removed them completely). A small wood board helps for pushing the pistons back in without marring them when installing the new pads. They slide right in. Don't forget to NOT let the pistons get pushed out of the caliper body. Unless you want to re-lube them and are going to bleed the system and fill with fresh fluid anyways...heck, probably a good time to do all that anyhow.

 

All the info is greatly appreciated Thanks for the help.

 

Its a cheap enough deal to try another kind of oil and see if it fixes it, then You will know won't you?

I had lots of older bikes that disliked full synthetic, including older v4's, Semi some liked. but I definitely have had slippage problems on some of them with full. And it was the oil.
And many more were happy with full s of course.....


BTW..I have a bike I ride a fair bit with 91,000miles on it that i have never dumped anything in but cheapo car oil. .....Its still happy..go figure?

good luck