Wheel bearing replacement necessary?

I am considering having my rims powder coated on my '83 750 Ceptor. The manual says that after removing the bearings, they should be replaced. Has anyone had to replace them for this? Seems like maybe I will be spending extra money for nothing... -- Thanks Alex

 

Well for an '83 bike I would just do it while you're in there. I'm assuming they are not sealed bearings which would make even more sense. You'd be surprised how much drag a bearing can cause.

While you're making everything all nice and new looking, why not make it work as best it can also? Just my $.02.

 

I concur.

Wheel bearings are so generic and cheap it doesn't make sense to re-use ones that are 25 years old...

Be sure that the powder coat is scraped off of the mating surfaces or your new bearings WILL NOT go into place, no matter how hard you hit them with a hammer.:biggrin:

 

The reason they need top to be replaced is that you have to use a long drift and tap them out using the inner bearing race as the "driver". That pretty much permanently damages the bearing. There is a spacer that runs side-to-side between the bearings, but it will not drop down far enough to enable a drift to angle out and make contact with the outer bearing race to remove them.

So, the bottom line here is that with most motorcycle wheels, or any wheels that use pressed-in ball bearings, removing the bearings destroys them.

 

Well that I won't completely agree although the method you described would certainly ruin the bearing if the rim wasn't heated up. Having replaced many bearings and saved many bearings I learned an easy way to do it if you need to re-use the bearings.

Here's what I do when I know the bearings are good and can be used again. Get your self a heat gun, not a hair dryer, an actual heat gun. Warm up the outside portion of the rim allowing it to expand ever so slightly. Then use a bearing puller to remove the bearing. It'll take no more than 3-4 relatively light pulls to get them out which will cause no damage to the bearing whatsoever. Can't tell you how many times I had to do this.

This is opposite of the installation in which it's better to freeze a bearing for a day or so which will shrink them. You can't shrink an already installed bearing so heat up the wheel instead.

Some people are really nervous about this sort of thing and can never restore their peace of mind with anything used so do whatever makes you comfy. I assure you doing it the way I outlined will save the bearing though, maybe not a 25 year old bearing but a relatively new one :biggrin:

 

alex5160, I just had my wheels off my '05 VFR powder coated. Took the wheels to a machine shop to remove the bearings for $10.00 They did remove them without any damage, but I did order new ones from Honda at $51.00 w/ installation. Kenji

 

This makes complete sense. After I thought about it for a bit, I don't think I've ever tapped out a wheel bearing unless I intended to change it. I have cheated, and pulled off the "non-removable" bearings seals, cleaned out the old grease and added new grease with no major issues (other than trying my patience :smile, but I was young and broke most of the time back then.

Do you have an adjustable adapter of sorts for the puller to work against, or are you using internals jaws and a slide-hammer sort of technique?

I never miss a chance for a good education!

 

Lgn001, you can buy a Bearing Puller Kit (slide hammer type) that includes several attachments to use depending on the bearing size. As long as the rim is heated up, they'll come out easy as pie provided the bearing isn't seized against the rim for whatever reason. Keep in mind there is always the chance that the adapters may not fit perfect in which case you will have to "rig" something in order to remove a bearing AND save it. Each bike is a little bit different as far as how much room you have to work with, etc. Sometimes a punch is the only way you can get in there whether it be a wheel, swingarm or whatever.

This kit is nearly identical to the one I use: http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/general_auto_tools/PUS234E.htm - Again I think Harbor Freight has a kit just like this.

 

Thanks, two4one! Yet one more tool to add to the collection...

 

I always just knocked'm out with a screw driver and hammer and replaced them with new ones. They're only $15 each (around here)... I use a socket that matches the OD of the new bearing and ever so gently tap it into place. Add white lithium grease and ready to roll.

 

I don't know what I'm doing at all, but I would think real wheel bearing grease in the can would be better than white lithium since it's thicker and made for this. Just my two cents. Getting ready to do this job myself just because I'm getting the wheels powder coated.

 

Anytime you pull or push against the race of the bearing that is not the fitted race, you run the risk of damaging the bearing. Why take the chance when bearings are cheap? I just bought new bearings to replace the one's out of my powdercoated wheels on my '99 and they were about $15 for the pair. They are common over-the-shelf bearings available at any bearing supply house.

Bushing pullers, which I think you are referring to, are designed to be inserted into a bushing, expanded and then used to pull out the bushing. Part of my job description is removing and replacing bearings and bushings. If I can remove a bearing without pressing against the non supported race, I may use the bearing again.

Pdiz real wheel bearing grease, i.e. thick grease, is not what you want for radial wheel bearing. Too much grease or too thick grease will cause heat buildup which is definitely not good.

 

what ? a bearing thread without Squirrelman saying "Dont buy cheap Chinese bearings" ?

this is an outrage!