signal lights dont work well while braking?

i have a video of the issue, but basically if im riding and i come to a stop with my signals on, then brake, the signal light strength gets weaker and weaker, almost to the point of not even blinking. if i let go of the brake, signals return to normal strength and cycling. brake again, and they slow down to nothing. obviously electrical, but what exactly??

so if u are behind me and i have my signals on and then brake, it looks as if i canceled the turn, even tho im still turning. brake lights work fine.

thoughts?

 

Dunno, bad signal relay maybe? I'd have to see it. Does it do it when you are sitting in your driveway?

 

whether in sitting with bike off, or bike on...does the same thing. the video is here.

11-11-08_1743.flv - Video - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

while running, the lights dont cut off, but slows down so much that it doesnt even look like its flashing.

 

Crazy, whats with all the electric problems popping up of late? This can be a lot of things here at first thought, what is happening here is there is not enough electricity as in able to carry a load to be able to get to said use, this can be due to a bad ground as well as any connections, maybe even a weak RR or Battery. Check and see if it goes away once above say 1500-1700rpm your charging system should be taking over any battery draw. If not then it's in the charging system. Trick here is to figure which way it's leaning, then check that out. there's a trickle down effect with charging and running, one effects the other. but in most cases it due to either a battery starting to go or bad, or corroded connections. FWIW I have had a slow turn signal but it was only one, so it was an easy fix found out it was the bulb, so yea lots of little things to check.
hope that helps

 

well if it matters, i also notice that my cluster lights and headlights get brighter as the rpms go up (say if its at idle and i rev it a few times). my r/r has the fins on it. wires dont look burnt. maybe the r/r is still toast and/ or my stator. i just dont want to start replacing stuff unnecessarily. and all bulbs work, at least it seems that way. i dont have another bike to compare it to.

 

i think i found my occasional burnt smell...:bs:






the wonderful starter relay...odd thing is that i had no issues with starting. does this thing has another job? what would cause this..?

 

Ya think. That sure looks like that could be your trouble all right...Good going. let us know how it works after the repair.

 

Be careful Rychas my son had a similar problem on his 95 CBR 900 in September. Weak signals and one day it didn't start. Bad starter solenoid, burnt, looked just like yours. Fried the fuse in place on the starter/S so bad I had to pull it out with a pliers. By some strange stroke of luck I plugged the spare fuse into the burnt holder and the bike started enough to get it home.
Went to a local used bike shop and got one off a wreck for $25.00. Then I went to the local Honda shop and showed a mechanic the burnt one and asked if he new of any other problems I would encounter other than the starter / solenoid. He said he has seen this before and a new S/S should fix it.(Honda price for new S/S $95.00).

Thought we had it fixed. Two weeks later the connector between the R/R and the stator fried. (Again looked like your connectors). All wires where hot at the connector but nowhere else. I'm thinking bad connection. So I replace the connector and all wires cool back down. Now we have it fixed for sure!! But Noooo!!

A week or so later the the bike quits and and the connector between the stator and R/R fries again. This time I'm lost so off to Honda. The mechanic goes to charge the battery on the bike and the R/R gets hot right away. Bottom line is he replaced the battery, the connector again, and also the R/R. Right around $400.00 total. Bike runs great now!

I did take the old R/R home and dug out the insulating material on the back to see what was going on inside. Not sure what they were, but found what looked like a small bank of watch batteries connectected with copper straps. One of them was burnt black the rest of them were clean. My guess is these were some kind of diodes or capacitors. Sorry, not an electronics expert.

My gut tells me it probably was the R/R all the time that caused all these problems. So I would say watch the R/R for excessive heat. It should be quite warm but if you can't keep your finger on it, it is probably bad.

Not sure if this helps.

Good luck Rychas

 

thanks for the big heads up! actually as i stated earlier, the r/r has the fins on it, so it should be cool. i went ahead and put in an order on a new one anyway from a gixxer. big fins on there should help keep it cool. before i took those pics, i had just come back from a 20 min ride. i pulled the fenders and touched the r/r, was hot, but not so hot i couldnt keep my hand on it for a few seconds. so, my plan is to replace the main starter relay, that connector, and the new r/r. if my signals work as they should, then we know that was the issue all along...the slow signals, the weak charging, and the burning smell

 

well..i fixed the wiring today. i just got new terminal ends for the wires and plugged them in directly to the relay. clean every connector on the bike. nothing else was fried or dark. so i think that was the main/seen damage.

now, something else i did do was to do a voltage check at the battery. bike off, i read 12.6x. bike on at idle, i read 13.5x-14.5x. but once i revved it to 5k, it jumped to 17.x!! so, that leads me to believe that the r/r is still bad, since the service manual says no more than 16.x @3k rpms. i need to install a voltmeter so i can monitor while riding. but i will report back when i get the gsxr r/r installed, and/or if it burns again.

 

ok. just replaced the r/r with a gsxr unit. works perfectly. 13.5 at idle, 14.3 @ 5k. 13.8 with brights @ 5k. im good. as for signals, they still suck. so i can eliminate this being related. but at least my charging system is good (just held up to 250 miles today):cheersaf: