"new" carbs = holy cow!

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by b1pig, Nov 12, 2008.

  1. b1pig

    b1pig New Member

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    i might have mentioned that the carbs on my '84 750 were full of junk. i knew that much since it had been sitting for 3 or more years. well, i located a set of carbs, complete. i got them day before yesterday and tore em down yesterday. only one bad note... one deteriorated diaphram. just one. so, i cleaned em up, removed the jets and cleaned them out. there was some residue, rust and junk in the bowls, but the jets were fairly clean.

    i tore my bike down and pulled the carbs. i pulled one slide assembly and the diaphram was good, so i swapped needles, cleaned and installed the slide assembly. Installed the "new" carbs. I never messed with the mixture screws. 3 of the 4 had been drilled out, but I didnt mess with them. I decided not to fool with anything just yet.

    after i installed the carbs and put the bike back together, I started spinning it over. i pulled the choke... and there was almost no resistance. i forgot to hook it up. :unsure:
    so, took the tank and airbox BACK off... and hooked it up. spun it over some more... and it fired up beautifully. it didnt want to idle, so i turned the idle screw in a bit. had to later spin it out because it wanted to idle too high. right now, its idling around 1100-1200 rpm. no hesitation off idle. pulls like crazy, and spins hard to 10-grand.

    with the original carbs, the engine sounded like it had a knock avery now and then. now, it literally purs with only a slight tick from the valves after warmup. i gotta say that i am impressed. now...... i gotta change the oil out and hope the clutch gets better... since i have no problem telling that its slipping. so far, i have a grand total of $900 in this bike. :smile:

    [​IMG]
     


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  2. midias

    midias New Member

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    Nice looks good. Next step is get some new stainless lines for the brakes and clutch and do a full flush and bleed. To me stainless lines were the best mod ever on both my 82 magna and my 86 vfr. I had no idea how bad the others were until I swapped. For the clutch take the slave off and clean the crap out of it and same with the master. Also clean the return hole and use a mighty vac to keep pulling new fluid out until it runs clear. That could help slipping problems although if they are caused by an energy conserving oil rotella T 15w-40 would be a cheap way to replace run for 10 minutes and replace again.
     


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  3. derstuka

    derstuka Lord of the Wankers Staff Member

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    Nice looking like. Sounds like she could use some new friction/drive plates and springs. Good job in gettin' her going.
     


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  4. b1pig

    b1pig New Member

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    i had to replace the clutch master when I got it. the system was completely dry before hand, and i bled it out. took 15 minutes, and i ran a BUNCH of fluid through it... something like 4 or 5 ounces. (i connect an old bottle with a hose for bleeding brakes and stuff)

    what did you use for the stainless lines? i havent really looked into it yet, so i dont know if there is a manufacturer that has a specific kit, or if you have to use lines for a different bike.

    right now, i have like 3 projects going... this Honda, a '98 Tracker and a '76 MGB that has been on a 4 year holding pattern. :)
     


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  5. drewl

    drewl Insider

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    YAY, a happy carb story for once.
     


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  6. midias

    midias New Member

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    Stainless braided brake lines from a company like galfer are what I am talking about. I have also read Galfer brake lines advertised for vf1000r work for the older vf750f and vf700f. or contact dave dodge he can prob help

    http://www.drp123.com/contactus.html
     


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  7. woody77

    woody77 New Member

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  8. supertex

    supertex New Member

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    Do you have a source for the lines?
     


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  9. woody77

    woody77 New Member

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    Previous post to yours.
     


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