Carbs! what is my problem???? HELP

Ok i have a 85 vf700 interceptor,i cleaned the carbs over the weekend and when i just tryed to start it,It would not start!!!i had to hold the throtle a lil for it to start then it didint want to rev up and the pistons in the carbs shaked when rev'd,Also was backfireing i seen a flame cum out of the carb,so what can this be???:unsure:

 

You say you clean your carbs,




It would be very helpful to understand s few things:

• How did the bike run before you did the work?
• Did you remove the cards?
• Did you disassemble the carbs?
• How did you clean the carbs: carb cleaning fluid by soaking; carb spray cleaned, compressed air, heat etc?
• Have you done this work before?

There are a number of small things that can go afoul in working on carburetors, perhaps if you answer the above questions I can help.

 

the bike was running fine before
No i did not remove the carbs,but i did remove the pistons
i used purpole power degraser but i coverd the intake on the carb
no this is my first time working on motorcycle carbs
the piston's shake when i give it throttle like the pistons arent hooked up:unsure:

 

When you say pistions do you mean the carb slides?

 

yes(slider) and i just tryed to start it and it back fired out of the right bottom carb !!!

 

Just a shot in the dark. could the diaphram have a puncture in it? on my 86 its accessable by 4 screws and a cap on the side.

 

Are you talking about the rubber at the end of the slider,becouse it is cut on the edje a lil ,IS THIS MY PROBLUME?

 

If its on the ring
Can i just put some silicon on it to seal it?Im on a real tight wallet!

BUT WAIT!!!
Only one of them are messed up,Why would all four be f*cking up?

 

on each individual carbureator is a black cylinder shaped peice of plastic. it slides up a metal pin going through the carb. on the backside of it is a cap on the carb. if you take out the 4 screws and pull off the cap a spring will come out then a thinn peice of rubber along with the black part and the metal pin. thats what i was talkin about. that thin rubber must seal. if it has any holes or it wont seal. you can try to put some sylicont to seal it. i doubte it would work. if it does it will be changing the vescosity of the rubber and changing how the diaphram (thin rubber) reacts. i recommend getting the part from honda if you can. i know more than most that price is a factor.

if this is not the part you are talking about describe it to me and ill try to help as much as i can.

did you blow out the carbs with a compresser. not just the jets?

 

if its the diaphram screwing up i believe that it will effect the suction of the carbs which can screw with all of the carbs.

someone please correct me if i am wrong.

 

Dude,You hit it right on the dot!

 

You have to replace a torn diapham, period. I also would check to make sure you seated them when you put things back together.

 

its the round notch like part that is broken. if the rest is sealed will that cause a problem.


was what i said about it having a hole screwing up the suction correct?

 

I do not believe in using any part that is flawed in any way unless you are on a battlefield and have no choice; I do admit you can get away with it sometimes and I would need to see the part before I could say it might work. Diaphragms can be tricky to get seated; they need to be seated when you insert the spring and cap. That means they need to be convex pointing down and not concave pointing up so the sealing edge is in mid air an inch above the mating surface. The best way do this is flip the diaphragm down while elevating the slide by inserting a finger under it. You lower the diaphragm, by lowering the slide, with one finger until it rests perfectly in place and assemble the spring and cap with your free hand. Once the cap is in place remover the finger holding the slide and (while you keep the cap in place – the spring will try to lift the cap) you need to now seat the four screws while you hold the cap down. The problem for you is that you can’t get a finger under the slide with the crabs mounted to the engine; they have to be off to do this. You still should try to achieve the same result by flipping the diaphragm down, it just is not as easy or as reliable. I hope this helps.

 

Your problem is you didn't clean them. The part that get's gunked up is on the bottom.

You have to remove the carbs completely, separate them, soak them, use compressed air to blow out the passages.

Then you have to sync them.

Read and educate yourself: URL: Carburetors - SabMagFAQ

As a shortcut (may or may not work) reseat the diaphragms and run the bike again.

The carb sliders will "shake" - as with the airbox cover off - there is no buffer. Every time that cylinder sucks air in, it will cause the diaphragm to "shake".

Test to see if the diaphragms are mounted correctly or if one is torn:
- Use your finger to GENTLY push the slide up into the bore of the carb.
- Now quickly let go.
- If the slide "SNAPS" down, then the diaphragm is not mounted correctly or is torn.
- The slide should slide down, but should not "SNAP" down.

 

The thing is the bike barly runs and when it deos it runs like shi*...when i do give it throttle it just dies and the slid's dont go up when i give it throttle!

 

You do my

with the engine off.

 

on this one i must differ with Mason (usually right on the money) and think separating the carbs is not necessary or desirable....

what you do need is to read and study the service manual and have high-pressure compressed air (100psi) to blow through passages

 

I got it running today,but when reved up to about 6rpms it starts backfiring!:unsure:

 

Is that with the one torn diaphragm replaced or attempted fix?