Head light problem tonight

Low beams didn't come back on.

Went out for a ride tonight. Coming home entering the on ramp for the highway at speed. I turned the high beams on for a few seconds then turn them off. My low beams didn't come on !! Not happy. Turned high beams back on to get off the ramp and pull over. Turned the bike off and on still no low beams. Ride home with high beams and piss everyone off.

Once home I left the bike running with the light switch set on low beams. about 2 minutes later low beams came back on ?? If I go to high beams and back to low no low for 2-3 minutes then they magically reappear.

Why has Lucas the prince of darkness possesed my bike it's not British !!

 

Most likely cause would be the contacts in the start switch that turn the lights off as you start the engine. Take the switch apart, clean the contacts with contact cleaner, reassemble with dialectric grease.

KC-10 FE out...
lane: :usa2:

 

My suspect would be your low beam relay. You might try swapping the high and low beam relays and see if the problem is reversed, i.e. your high beams take a few minutes to come on.

HTH - Paul in MI

 

^^WHS^^

Check/change the low beam relay.

 

did you fix it?

 

mine do that too

my switch from high to low has caused delay too. at longest, maybe 3 seconds though. and also it only happens every so often, not every time.

 

ive had a similar thing happen, no low beam at all, high works.I press down on the high beam button like 10-20% (does that make sense) than low beam comes on. Not a proper fix but may help you get by till you can get yours fully sorted.

 

Well I had a look at this problem again. Now it does it for about 20 seconds. Not all the time. I have to fix it as the bike is sold. A new and loving owner is waiting to receive the bike. He looked at 4 VFR800 before deciding on mine.

I will be moving on to a 2003 Suzuki DL1000

 

Caution on dielectric grease......dielectric grease is a nonconductive grease. Since it is nonconductive it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. The surfaces of electrical conductors should therefore not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being assembled. It is a great product when understood and used for it's intended purpose......some folks use the grease by covering everything before assmbly however this should not be done........be sure to understand the intended use of a product before it's application. Good luck with solving this problem. Lots of helpful tips.

 

Well the relay is only $41.75 so not to bad if I have to buy one.

 

Mine has a delay of no more then a second when changing from hi to lo. Its a bit off putting, im assuming its the contacts in the switch need cleaning/relay is on its way!

 

Electrical connecters should absolutely be coated with dialectric grease. The contact points in these connecters are metal to metal and that is how your conection is made regaurdless if the grease is present or not. The purpose of the grease not being conductive is so you dont create continuity between connecters in the same plug but still gain the anti corrosive proporties.

 

Tried this trick. Pressed on the switch and the beam instantly came on. I took the switch apart and a cocoon in side. I bought contact cleaner and the grease. It got dark and no heat electrics in the new shed so more to come tomorrow.

 

SO WHY NOT use regular wheel bearing grease ?? What's the difference then ??

I'm betting your problem is the switch contacts, not the relay.....

 

OK cleaned the switch and it works perfectly. It's a wonderful +6 today so I'm off for a ride. Taking my Elite 150 no worry if I dump it.

 

My caution was to promote folks to gain an understanding of dielectric grease through further information and research to satisfy themselves how best to apply this great product. Since it is a nonconductor, applications directly to cleaned metal conductors or contacts may cause a connection to stop working. Electricity will not pass through a non cocuctor. This was a caution.

Since in your infinite wisdom you have have advised that ““electrical connecters should “absolutely” be coated with dialectric grease”” a product and part you cannot spell or with which you have difficulty with keystrokes, as oft I do, I will withdraw my caution and suggest folks follow your sound recommendtions. I’m sure many of them will have seen your cock sure opinions in your thread “gay marriage???’ thus gaining confidence in your crystal-clear opinions.

My understanding of these forums was to express views and promote a dialogue to promote the exchange of helpful and useful information. When the contributor has a mind like a steel trap the usefulness of these forms seem to me to be of little or no use.

 

Awsome!!! Glad to hear your success!!!

 

Hi Squirrelman

Good question. Thanks for the opportunity to respond.

The big difference between this product and “regular wheel bearing grease” is that dielectric grease is insoluble in water. A great advantage when your electrical connections are subject to water or dampness.
I hate to answer a question with another question but….in view of your past posts and how much importance you place on cleanliness and proper procedures when making repairs and your general work ethics, may I ask if you were preparing electrical connections, cleaning electrical contacts or installing electrical connectors would you then coat them with “regular wheel bearing grease” prior to crimping connectors or after you carefully cleaned contacts? I hope not. But if you would, I suggest you defer to the recommendations of our other astute posters. Regular wheel bearing grease does not totally reject water. What a mess your electrical connections would be. That does not conjure up visions or you to me. But whatever……

 

I would not be coating a switch assy with dialectric grease either. One needs to be carefull where to use this product as it doesnt go on everything. I use it in sealed connectors but not on the contacts; not out in the open as it attracts dirt. Liquid neoprene works well out in the open. Personally I prefer to solder open copper connections; and don't bust my balls about vibration cracks. In 23+ years of wrenching I've never seen it happen.

Sorry it seems to always end in a pissing match, forums are a pain that way.