Charging system Rebuild

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by supervfr, Aug 1, 2008.

  1. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    What parts need to be replaced to repair the charging system on an 86?

    Thanks.
     


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  2. flameface

    flameface New Member

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    Stator and regulator/rectifier. You could replace the ground wire too. There are aftermarket items that are less expensive than Honda, and lots of guys have sourced their reg/recs from other brands (GSXRs, etc).

    Note: Order the stator cover gasket from Honda BEFORE you start the project, 'cause they'll have to order it and it may take weeks to get it (ask me how I know).
     


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  3. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    what does the cdi box do?

    Where would you recommend I buy the parts from?
     


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  4. masonv45

    masonv45 New Member

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    The stator gasket can be made from standard gasket paper, paper punch and a pair or scissors...
     


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  5. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    what is more important for charging, the stator or recitifier.

    recitifier $120
    stator $349
     


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  6. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    What are you trying to do? Trying to fix an electrical problem of not charging, not charging enough or to much or rebuilding a bike that has broken parts?

    Sounds like your throwing parts at some type of a general problem and don't know what it is yet. If that's the case, what type of problem are you having? We might be able to help you pin point it and save you some $$$.
     


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  7. flameface

    flameface New Member

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    Do you own a meter? There are very simple tests to see if the stator is performing properly, and if you think you have a charging system problem the only other two components of the charging system are the reg/rec and the battery.

    That said...there are lots of other electrical systems on your bike but the charging system is just the stator, reg/rec and battery.

    I have the test sequence in my manual and a meter is a fairly inexpensive item at your local auto parts store.

    What is the bike doing that leads you to believe there is a problem??
     


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  8. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    ... stupid cat just erased everything i just typed just as i got done typing.

    again...

    Partially yes, i'm just tossing parts at it. I am very frustrated with this and other vehicles always braking down on me. The engine itself runs seamlessly. I just want the thing to work without getting me stranded out somewhere.

    What usually happens is it will run great most of the time. After a few days of running great I will go out to start it and use half choke to start and warm up. What happens is one of two things. When I first start it, it will sputter and barely run on full choke and full throttle. Or else it will warm up but 2 blocks down the road I will have to give it full throttle (or even full throttle and full choke again) and it will hardly run and sputter out.

    At this point it doesn't start again. Sometimes push starting it will get it running, and sometimes ill have to put it on a charger and it starts and runs great.

    It feels like its being starved for gas, especially as some times any throttle will kill the engine. But it runs ok when I get a jump or started off a charger ???

    Also, I know that I only usually take 15 minutes trips to work, but after push starting it and running for 15 minutes it seems that it would at the least have enough electricity to turn the engine over.

    If I charge it it seems to run ok for a week and then back to the same problems. Could the CDI Box be going out? I know starting is a pretty big drain on the battery especially since i'm bypassing the solenoid (another part ill be buying).

    If its the carbs wouldn't it do this all of the time.

    thanks for your help
     


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  9. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    there are about 5 wires comming from the clutch plate. what voltages should they have?

    1986 700F

    thanks
     


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  10. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    a short 15 minute ride may not be enough to recharge the battery power lost when starting....

    you need to keep a trickle charger on your battery at all times.

    as stated above you should check output voltage from stator with bike running and check resistance with bike off.

    considering the cost of replacement parts, you'd likely NOT want to replace anything that's working OK.

    You may be using too much choke for too long, fouling plugs with excess fuel, so try to use less choke and shorter warm up.....or none at all. in warm summer weather use of choke may not be necessary if you use the idle adjustment screw to slightly boost engine rpms on startup.....
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2008


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  11. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    Well. I believe iv learned some more about the problem.

    Its not the charging system. The last two times I had a problem starting the batter had lots of charge.

    It simply was not fireing. CDI Box?

    It cranked and cranked first with no throttle no choke. Then I tried both choke and throttle. Between that and attempting to push start it after the battery was nearly dead it was flooded.

    Push starting was successful after letting it set.

    I am pretty much at a loss here. Im sure its not getting spark. But why would it only happen some times starting?

    What all parts could it be?

    oh, and the bike was warm this time.

    Thanks
     


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  12. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    could be bad contacts in your start/ stop button on top of right bar.

    or problem with pick up coils under starboard engine cover.....hope it's not the CDI.........
     


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  13. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    Please excuse my noobishness. what are pick up coils.

    starboard = left?




    ok. i get it. So i should buy a new pick up pulser coil and see if it fixes the problem?
     


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  14. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    just to be sure,,, a battery that is too small couldent cause this could it?
     


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  15. supervfr

    supervfr Banned

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    Here is my plan. Ill keep the meter and tools i need to both check for spark and test the pick up coil with me. I wont be able to get accurate tests untill i i get to the point where its not starting.

    next time it happens ill test the spark plug for any spark at all then the coil
     


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  16. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    "What usually happens is it will run great most of the time. After a few days of running great I will go out to start it and use half choke to start and warm up. What happens is one of two things. When I first start it, it will sputter and barely run on full choke and full throttle. Or else it will warm up but 2 blocks down the road I will have to give it full throttle (or even full throttle and full choke again) and it will hardly run and sputter out."

    "If I charge it it seems to run ok for a week and then back to the same problems."

    "Well. I believe iv learned some more about the problem.
    Its not the charging system."

    You never said if you checked the charging system with a meter. Put a meter on the battery +,- posts. Start the bike. At idle it should be reading the battery voltage of a little over 12v. Rev the bike up to 2500 or so and the voltage should go up to 14.4v or so. If less or a lot more your regulator/rectifiers is bad. Very common problem.

    The first quote tells me it may not have enough spark to fire the plugs. Hence the sputter.

    The 2nd quote tells the story. With a fully charged battery it will run ok. When the voltage drops it doesn't. Coils can't charge enough to fire the plugs under load. But work good enough for idle and low load.

    If you don't have enough voltage the coils can't build a big enough charge for the good spark to jump the gap when a lot of fuel is thrown in the cylinder. Hence it puts the fire out.

    How did you rule out the charging system? The R/R could be intermittently not working or where they connect together is corroded and needs to be cleaned. Another common problem.
     


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