I finally got my class m licence and while I was riding around town today and I noticed the temp was about 240 is that sumthin I should worry about or is it ok for it to run in that temp range?
It sounds a tad bit high but how hot was it outside, did the cooling fan kick on, were you in excessive stop/go traffic or low speed (40mph and under) traffic? Normal operating temps should be around 170F-225F depending on temperature, traffic, and speed. Sometimes it can get higher if the temps are up and you aren't moving much or very fast but it should go down once you start getting a little bit of speed up. Usually the first thing to check is make sure that the fan is kicking on. It should be turning on around 222F-225F and shut off when the temp drops to about 210F. If the fan doesn't kick on then the firest thing to check is make sure the fuse is not blown. After that it gets a little more in depth with the fan. If the fan is kicking on, perhaps it is a stuck closed thermostat. There isn't really a way to check this short of pulling it and it is a pain in the butt to do.
it was maby 80-85 not sure was thinking bout hooking a switch up to the fan so i can turn it on when I get to town plus either a vtr100f fan blade Tired Of Having A Hot Vfr? - VFR Discussion or a Muzzys - Aluminum Cooling Fan Blade - Honda - VFR 700 Interceptor 1986-1987/VFR 750 1990-1995/CBR 900RR 1993-1999/CBR 1000RR 2004-2007/CBR 1000F Hurricane 1994-1996/MV Agusta F4 Lower Fan
At 80-85, you shouldn't have seen those temps unless your fan isn't working or your thermostat is stuck. Time to start tracking down the problem. Let the bike idle in your driveway and see if the fan kicks on. If it doesn't kick on by 230F, your problem lies in the fan. If it does kick on, I'd say your problem lies in the thermostat.
My experience has been that my VFR just doesn't like to ride slowly around town, or idle for very long in stop and go traffic. Once underway, it's fine. It was 97F this past Saturday and I slabbed it for 1-1/2 hours at 80-85 mph and the temp never exceeded 194F, and was often in the mid-180's. I almost expired from the heat, but the VFR did just fine.
How does the fan temp switch work i think it completes the circuit by grounding the wire but i am not sure
What year 5G is this? Before you go nuts with mods I'd change out the coolant and replace the thermostat.
Thats a very good question that the manual doesn't seem to provide much of an answer on. One would think that the ECU would control the fan based upon the temperature read from Engine Coolant Temperature sensor but yet there is a separate fan motor switch. It either works in completing the circuit by grounding the wire as you suggest or it is a thermistor that feeds the data to the ECU which then turns the fan on/off.
re: Fan, Temp, Gauge Questions Hi all, I havea '97 VFR. At the end of the last season I noticed my temp gauge stopped working. As usual I figured I'd have time over the winter to tinker & fix the problem-didn't happen. I was playing around with the issue this last week and I was hoping for a little more guidance. I grounded the lead to the thermosensor and the gauge didn't move, so according to the manual - replace the thermosensor. I did that, but still the same issue. I started the bike and I can see the temp. gauge needle moved a little bit, so I am figuring the gauge is OK. Also after letting the bike run I can feel the coolant is circulating as the hoses on both sides of the radiator are hot I recall last year the fan kicking on, but didn't notice that happening after bike had run/ideled for about 5-10 minutes. I checked my fuse box and they all seem fine. Would you think its the thermostat? Any help is appreciated.
To the OP - When it gets hot (over 180°F), put your hand on the radiators. If they don't feel hot, you likely have a stuck-closed thermostat. If they do feel hot, and the fan isn't coming on before 230°F, you have a problem with the fan. No amount of fan mods will help to cool the bike if the thermostat is stuck closed since coolant isn't circulating to the fan. My knowledge is limited primarily to the 6th gen, but if it is the same/similar on the 5th gen - The fan does not communicate with the ECT sensor. It has it's own sensor at the upper portion of the LEFT radiator. The ECT sensor in the block is used by the ECM to control fueling at temperatures, and to display the temperature on the gauge. I would check that the fan operates when fed 12v. If it does, and the coolant is circulating (hot radiators but fan doesn't come on) then either the fan temp sensor is shot OR there may be an air bubble in the radiator where the sensor is, and it isn't heating up. I would verify that all parts of the system are working correctly (which by your description, they currently are not) before adding a manual override switch to the system. And if I did add a manual override switch, I would do it in parallel with the automatic setup - just in case I forgot to switch it "ON" the fan would still come on when called upon by the sensor (i.e. wire 12v to the fan with a manual switch, with a diode on both the switch side and stock wiring side to prevent back-feeding). Good luck, and hopefully my 6th gen information applies to your 5th gen. To vfrrdr68, I would verify that the gauge works correctly before tearing into it. If it's just a fault gauge, best to save all the work if possible...
I'm having the same issue my fan isn't cutting in until 239F by then its starting to blow coolant out the overflow hose
i put on a vtr1000f fan and since then the temp gauge jumps all over the place it will go from 195 to 235 in a couple of seconds had to remove the radiator to install the fan so i think there might be some air in the system??
