Spring/noob thread

I bought my 2003 (non ABS) last fall and I only had time to do ~70 miles and a basic tune-up (air filter and plugs) before putting it in storage (with some fuel stabilizer in the remaining 1 gal of gas so it won't run like hell the first time and before getting to a gas station)
Spring came and I'm thinking it's time to take it out (if not right now, for sure in the next month).
Here's what I have in mind:

Oil + filter change. Any suggestions or should I go with anything I find in an auto parts store?
Coolant change. Same question.
Techron fuel system cleaner in the tank.
Brake fluid change. Is it enough to open the bleeding screws and let it flow until it comes out clear (while filling the reservoir)?
LEDs in the tail and HID's in the low beams (with proper alignment afterwards). Anyone tried LEDs in the headlights (I really believe that this is the future but I'm not sure that the technology is mature enough)?
Also, where do I find the part number for the bulbs?
Bar sliders (any recommendations?). Before this one I had a Ninja 500 from 2006 until 2012 and I put ~12k miles on it. I never fell, I slid a few times (ice, sand, oil) but with motorcycles I KNOW it's a question of when not if so why not be prepared?


Bike has ~20k miles and it passed the safety inspection in MD (good brakes/tires).
Anything else I should do?

Thanks in advance!

 

I have had good luck with Amsoil for motorcycles. Smoothed everything out and lasts a fair while. I just used the factory oil filter for the change. Whatever oil you decide to use, make sure it is motorcycle specific. I would go to a motorcycle dealer or find motorcycle specific at the autoparts store. NAPA is where I find my Amsoil, but they also have Mobil1 bike as well. Motul is also a good choice.

I used Seafoam to clean out my tank, fuel system and lines when I purchased my VFR and then I replaced the fuel filter after that. It only had 22k on it, but I still like the feeling of knowing it is a clean one.

Some people prefer the Honda brand blue coolant and say to only use that, but I have been using the aluminum safe (phosphates free) radiator fluid with no issues. I flushed it out with distilled water until it was clear, added the new fluid and burped the system. If you still have air trapped in there the temp will be off. It should run about 180ºF at temp. If it is running cooler, you possible have a bad thermostat or air in the system.

You should also check your pads and rotors and see how they are for wear. If you're at 30,000miles or above, check your head bearing as well.

 

My impression (after using both on cars only) is that Seafoam is not as good as techron in the gas. It does what it's suppose to do through the intake (at least on some cars) though. BG44K is even better but very expensive.
Pads/rotors were inspected 75 miles ago and they were ok.
I've only used amsoil in manual transmissions so far (works nice).

 

I have not had experience with the Chevron, so I am kind of biased towards the Seafoam. Go with what works for you Though. I would still consider replacing the fuel filter after running the agent through there as it might get clogged with crap from the lines.

Amsoil is great stuff and it is the only oil I run in my cars and bikes. No issues, but longer intervals between changes.

Post some pics of your ride though man, people here love pics.

 

Name your personal hell:

Bike is in storage.
In a friend's garage.
A few miles away.
I haven't seen it in more than a month.
All I remember is that it's red ...

 

Looks like you got a good list. I'd add clutch fluid to the things to check/replace if needed. Also don't forget your tires! Wear/pressure etc.

I use Mobil1 in my '02 (also in my car) with good results. For the filter I use Purolator PL14612. Also +1 to Seafoam.

 

If you decide to change the brake fluid, make sure you get the factory method to properly bleed the system. With linked brakes, it's a complicated process.

 

Wouldn't dripping be enough (to prevent air getting into the system)? This, considering there's no air in the fluid and I just want to flush the it.
This is what I did to all my cars and the only problem I had was once when I forgot to refill the tank (air in the ABS system is a very scary thing while driving).

 

You still have to pump the brakes to move the fluid through the system. And with the linked brakes having a secondary master cylinder on the front, it requires a very specific order for bleeding (even if you're not introducing any new air). That would be the only way to ensure that fresh fluid gets all the way through the system. You can't just rely on gravity with this brake system. Although that method would probably work with the clutch just fine. But if you're going through all the trouble of cracking bleeders and filling reservoirs, you might as well do some pumping and get any air that might be in there, out. Either way, you might want to familiarize yourself with the VFR bleeding procedure before opening any bleeders, just so you know what's involved...just in case.

 

So ... oil, filter, injector cleaner, coolant, brake/clutch fluid, tires, brakes - checked

Any input on the bulbs (HID/LEDs/part numbers) and/or bar sliders?
Anything else I missed?

Thanks!

 

Curiosul, do you have the Honda Service Manual? If not send me a PM and I'll send you a link to one I have in my Dropbox folder. Lots of good info, including how to bleed the braking system. On that topic, speed bleeders will make quick work of any future bleed job.

Cheers and welcome to The World!

 

Welcomd!

Where in MD?

I'm in with the rest of the crowd regarding pumping the brake fluid thru. You tend to get a lot of build up crud in behind the pistons and the bleed nipple hole to the point you might have to remove the nipple and clean it out. my clutch had an amazing amount of crud behind the bleed nipple and also in the master cylinder reservoir.

 

I apologize for the delay.
Weather is still cold (maybe I'll take it out in two weeks or so) plus I was busy fixing a friend's car.
I have the manual and I'll try to do the factory recommended bleeding.
I live in Baltimore.