R1 regulator for replacement????????

I've been reading allot of post on regulator and I understand that the stock one is garbage. I bought the bike and it has some kind of retifier on it but it is not stock it worked for me for about 1 1/2 years (who knows how long the p/o had it on there) it has a small cooling fan mounted to it. But just last week it started the whole not chargingthing. It runs for a while then wont start back up. In a few of the post I read that people where useing the r1 rectifier to replace for the stock vfr. Which I can see the reason for it they are allot cheaper, even for the ricks. So if this is a good replacement to stock which one should I get? And what kind of trouble would I be looking?

 

There's various cures for the RR problems on these bikes. wiremybike gets a lot of thumbs up. My bike has one from a Blackbird. Discussions go on and on...

The little fan is a mod that many people have also done. Fan from a computer, Radio Shack, etc. just to help keep the RR a little cooler.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd go with the wiremybike along with the VFRness just because I haven't heard of any problems of them failing yet.

 

I been using a 07/08 R1 RR in my bike for a few months now, works brilliantly, got it off ebay for $40, its one of the new mosfet RR, tiny cool, works great. Wired it up direct to the battery with a fuse inline. Upgraded all the wires going to the RR with some nice thick gauge wiring just in case.

 

I just ordered the basic kit for the Shindengen FH012AA R/R from Jack Fleming. at roadstercycle.com

With the Honda replacement quite spendy, and a Rick's unit at $150, This set up seemed in the running.

Seems like it should work. All new, with "the stuff", 'feels like it should go together smoothly. I've read nothing but good about the units. I'm going to do the Simple Wiring, and work out the details with the bikes wiring and connectors as a separate issue. IF I can rely on the alternator keeping the battery charged, the rest is easy ;-)

My OEM R/R bit the dust due to my failure to snug up the battery ground connection after installing a new battery.

Silly Me!
The MOSFET design of the FH series R/R's just seems better.


Cheers

 

Anything is better than the stock setup, and I would eliminate all connectors and solder everything together. These connectors aren't weatherpack(they friggin should be) and they corrode, which leads to resistance(and heat) in the connection making them melt. If you use connectors be sure to use plenty of diaelectric grease to protect em.

 

From what I've read, there are 3 OEM mofset R/R's. FH010, FH011, and FH012. The FH012 is the newest one. The FH011 is the one with the HUGE heatsink. They all share the same connectors and can be wired the same. Three wires for the stator and red/black for the battery/ground. I'm replacing my charging system and will be going this route with the R/R. I am a little concerned with using this since there will be no "monitor" wire to it that the stock R/R has.

Then there is the Compu-fire R/R No. 55402. The benefit of this type is it doesnt dump wasted power to the ground. It's a series type R/R or something. I still need to read more into it.


If you really want to clean up the wiring on your bike, then you can get Delphi connections that are 100x times better than what Honda used. They fit snug and have gaskets around the wires and around the male connector to keep crud out.

 

The install on my 99 went smoothly

The FH012 looks good, I just positioned the unit so the connectors faced forward, and drilled for the mounting bolts.

I took some liberty and ran the new 10ga wires from the regulator to the battery and also connected the original Honda wiring harness that formerly went to the regulator output wires, in parallel.

The two greens are now connected directly to the battery minus post with a ring terminal The two reds are together and mounted to the circuit breaker post. The new breaker is inserted midway on the regulators output wire run to the battery Plus post. I located the device right next to the OEM fuse holder.

I did like getting rid of that three wire connector from the alternator. I cut the lead from the regulator and soldered the wires at the former location of the connector plug and socket. heat shrink and a sleeve for protection. One plug connection at the regulator is enough.

Still there is a bit of wiring confusion around the battery box, but I know where it all goes ;-)

Fired up, the multi meter displays 14.58 volts at just about any engine RPM.

Good to go, ...so I went for a ride ;-)

 

I put a FH012 on my 86 this spring. I got the connectors and fuse with it. The only real problem I had was to find room for it. I had to move the fuel pump into a space that was previously empty. Had to weld in some new tabs on the left side of the sub frame. Trial fitting the plastic cover revealed that I needed to cut them off and move them, it is physically larger than the stock unit. The FH012 is still a parallel unit meaning that it shunts excess power to ground so it does heat up, but it only gets warm to the touch.

 

I recently did what you did, except I made a patch harness to go into the stock connector and used the Yammi's waterproof connectors at the RR. So far so good for me.