Problem with Dashboard Clock

I have a 2010 VFR1200 and need help to resolve a problem.

My clock resets to 0100 every time I turn off the bikes ignition. The trip odometer for trip a and trip b also resets to 0 every time the the bikes ignition is turned off. The actual odometer, keeping track of total mileage to date, is the only thing that is not resetting.

Does anyone know if there is a battery in the dash unit, that may need replacing? Any other ideas how to resolve this annoying little glitch?

Thank in advance.

 

I haven't actually looked at the schematic yet, but you might check all the fuses in the fuse box with a test light or voltmeter. There's probably one that's hot all the time even when the key is off for memory power. If it were blown that would certainly cause your problem.

 

Thanks Dave. I'll check that out later today.

 

Whaddaya mean later today? It's already night time. Oh wait.............

 

Ok, I checked out all the fuses with my multimeter and they all appear to be intact. I downloaded a copy of the wiring diagram and identified the fuse responsible for the Clock and it tested OK, I even tried replacing it with a spare 10A fuse, but still no joy.

Any suggestions on what I can try next?

Thanks in advance,
Tony

 

Sounds like you just checked the fuses for continuity, but did you check to make sure there was actually voltage present on both sides of the fuse?

 

Does it reset when you turn the key off or back on? May be hard to tell. Sounds like a bad or weak battery. Try testing the battery voltage with key off and then turn key on (engine off) and see if the battery voltage drops.

 

did you have voltage at the fuse with the key off ???

 

yeah, what he said !!! ;-)

 

It Sounds like MrSleep is on the right path. Have you checked that the battery terminals are tight?

 

There was no voltage at the fuse with key on and also with key off. I'll check the battery next and report back.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

 

Battery terminals are tight and clean. Voltage with key on is 12.03v and with key off is 12.55v.

 

Also tested for voltage at both sides of the fuse with key and with off. No voltage at either side in either case.

 

Ok, so based on your original post, the bike runs fine and your only symptom is that the clock and both tripmeters reset when you shut the bike off. Those things appear to get their power from the 10A meter backup fuse. It gets its power from the 50A main fuse, but so does your fuel pump. So if the bike runs fine, then the 50A main fuse is fine. You should remove the 10A meter backup fuse and *gently* probe both sides in the fuse box for voltage, just in case there's any corrosion or a pin-fit issue between the fuse and its corresponding terminals. If no voltage is present, you've got a fusebox problem. I just did a quick check on mine with a test light and there's definitely power there with the key off. Have you (or anyone else) had the fuse box out for anything? Might be a loose connection on the bottom side where all the connectors are. Any chance it's suffered water intrusion in the fuse box? Probably worth a look. Also make sure all terminals are clean and shiny, but don't spread them trying to clean them, or you'll create a pin-fit issue. Looking at that damn schematic sure makes me appreciate Toyota's oh-so-legible schematics. But I have seen worse. Keep us posted.

Correction: 50A main powers the fuel pump relay, not the pump itself, but same answer.

 

OK here are the results with key off - Removed the fuse and tested both sides of the fuse holder for voltage. Both showed 0V
and here are the results with key on - Removed the fuse and tested both sides of the fuse holder for voltage. One side showed 0V other side showed 9.5V
No signs of water damage in or around the fuse box.
As I'm the second owner of the bike I'm not sure if the fuse box has been removed or tampered with.
I'll try taking the fuse box out and inspecting the connections going into it.
It would appear there is a problem between the 50A main fuse and the 10A Backup fuse, right?

PS> Geez Dave, don't you ever sleep?

 

Most likely,that 9.5 is feeding back through another circuit, probably the meter cluster.

Keep a sharp eye as well for wires backed out of connectors. They have redundant safeties to prevent this, but it still happens if somebody goes tugging on it.

It would appear so, yes. A little disassembly should reveal something, since the connection between the two is likely to be a copper bus bar of some sort, rather than a piece of wire, but I could be wrong there.

Not nearly enough.

 

So I popped the 2 plastic clips holding in the fuse holder, and eased the assembly upwards - it moved about 10mm before tight cables prevented it moving any further. I was not able to flip it over to inspect the cable connections on the underside. I did however get a good look at the Green/White wire that carries the voltage on the backup circuit to the clock. I was thinking that rather than strip the bike down to its bare bones in order to remove the fuse holder, it would be far easier to run a new 12V feed off the battery to the Green/White wire via a new 10A fuse and holder like this one on Ebay. I was thinking I could make the connection using a positap connector, to avoid cutting the Gr/Wh.
Bussmann BK HHS SEL Stripping Fuseholder UPC 0517127412 | eBay
Does this sound feasible/safe?

 

Your essentially running a "jumper" to energize what is not getting the correct volts. Its a common practice when you dont want to strip down the entire patient. If it was my bike, I would trouble shoot it, thats just me tawking though. Nothing wrong with what your doing mind you, also a "high-five to Dangerous Dave regarding the pin seperation thing." Have seen numerous sketchy things regarding contact...Good Luck and keep us posted!!! We want to know how you make oot!

 

+1. I hate to cobble anything. The proper repair probably isn't as bad as you think.

 

I Don't know if you ever got this problem fixed, but I had the exact problem.

More often than not when i started the bike the clock would reset to 0:00 and the trip meters to 0. it just ended up being a bad battery my dealer replaced it under warranty and have not had the problem since.

After about 3 months the battery completely crapped itself and would not hold a charge.