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Oil change 1st generation

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by reg71, Jul 31, 2006.

?

Choose your oil...

  1. Regular

    29.8%
  2. Synthetic

    42.6%
  3. Semi-synthetic

    29.8%
  4. other (got me on this one)

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    Skill level: basic
    Time: 30 minutes or less
    Cost: low
    Special tools: no (unless old filter on too tight)

    Step 1: Assemble your tools. You will need a 12 mm socket (or wrench) , funnel, oil drain pan, filter wrench or strap, new oil filter, new oil (3 qt of 10w40).

    Step 2: Put bike up on center stand and remove chin fairing. (you might be able to do it with the fairing on, but it's four easy screws and then no chance of getting oil all over it) See Image 1.

    Step 2: Put oil drain pan below drain bolt and remove drain bolt. It's kind of hard to get a good picture of it, but relatively easy to see if you have the chin fairing off and look on the bottom of the engine case. On mine, there is a metal guard sticking down in front of it. See image 2.

    Step 3: If your drain pan is big enough to catch the oil from the filter (most are) then remove the oil filter and allow it to drain into the pan also. Here is the most common place to run into trouble. If the old filter in on too tight, you may have to get creative. Usually a filter wrench of the appropriate size will take it off, but I have heard of extreme measures such as driving a screwdriver through the old filter to be able to have a handle to turn it. See image 3.

    Step 4: Oil the rubber gasket around the new filter lightly. I use my finger and a drop or three of the new oil. (See image 4) Then replace the filter. Tighten about 1/4 turn past finger tight. I try to make it snug. It's easier to turn it a little tighter if you see a leak than it is to untighten an overtightened filter.

    Step 5: Very important! Replace the drain plug. I have skipped this step a few times. It gets aggravating, especially if you've already moved the drain pan. Tighten the plug down pretty tight. I don't have to torque values handy, but you don't want it leaking.

    Step 6: Fill 'er up. I believe my bike says 2.6 U.S. quarts but take a look at your repair manual. After the first 2 quarts, start using the dipstick to check. I wipe it off every time I pull it out then reinsert, tighten down, then remove it and read it. I try to get it as close to the top as possible without going over (kind of like the price is right). See image 5.

    Step7: Use the $30 you saved to buy some beer or other beverage to enjoy after a nice ride. Sorry no image of this one, I'll have to come back later and take a pic after my ride. :smile:
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 3, 2006


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  2. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Well-Known Member

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    Excellent write up reg. I used synthetic when I changed my oil today, Mobil 1 Clean 5000. I will have to wait and see how it does. Waht fileter brand and number did you use? My manual says to not screw down the dipstic, to just push it in then remove it. I really don't see why, but I guess if you don't screw it in you will have a little more in the case. Possible safety margin? On mine, 1993, I had to take off the left mid and lower fairing, which is necessary to have access to the oil filter. Again, great job!! :smile:
     


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  3. ATXVF1000R

    ATXVF1000R New Member

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    Thanks, the pics were very helpful in locating the dipstick, all my bike friends tried to tell me that motorcycles dont have dipsticks.
     


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  4. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    I'd say that most don't, but not all. This was one of the few bikes I have owned with one. I have since sold it. I still didn't see a pic with the dipstick, though?
     


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  5. ATXVF1000R

    ATXVF1000R New Member

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    Well I read that the dipstick is located on the cap of the oil fill hole, both of which my friends tried to tell me are not on motorcycles. I assumed (correctly) that the oil fill cap (and dipstick) would be located pretty close to the area that pic 5 shows oil going into a funnel and into the engine.

    By the way, I used a Mobil-1 filter that is supposedly comparable to the Purolator Pure One, and Shell Rotella T oil. Both seemed to get high praise from people on this forum, so I hope it works fine using a big rig oil in a motorcycle engine.
     


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  6. Gaunty41

    Gaunty41 New Member

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    Synthetic Oil

    Hi, I used synthetic oil about two years ago on my 1996 VFR 750fT. My clutch went about 300 miles after I did this. I then read somewhere, not sure where anymore that you should not use fully synthetic oil in a VFR? I had to rebuild the clutch, and have not had any problems for over 10,000 miles. I recently did a trip to Valencia in Spain with 3 others and my VFR purred along without missing a beat for 3000 miles in one week!
     


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  7. tjwor

    tjwor New Member

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    Ok, so i just bought an 85 interceptor, i'm scared of the oil situation... I was told that once you use synthetic you must only use synthetic because it coats the clutch with something, so i'm scared to use anything other than synthetic because the previous owner may have used it...

    is this at all correct or was the person an idiot that was telling me this?
     


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  8. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    I think he'd have to show me some proof of that. If that was the case, how does he explain blends? If I am not mistaken, they currently sell oils that are a blend of synthetic and normal oil. Also, oil additives coat the engine and do not require you to forever use them. I'm not an oil expert, but that statement seems too absolute to be true.
     


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  9. derstuka

    derstuka Lord of the Wankers Staff Member

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    They might be talking about a synthetic with "friction modifiers" or teflon additives meant for engines with dry clutches...mostly cars. They will cause your clutch to slip. These are more common in enviromental/economy low weight oils like 0w 20, 5w20 and so on. My toyota tacoma 4 banger uses the stuff. It calls for 0w20, or 5w20. I never heard of 0w20 until a year or so ago.

    Just make sure that you are buying a motorcycle specific synthetic (or conventional type). It normally says "wet clutch safe" or "JASO" or something which means safe for japanese motorcycles.
     


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  10. deanc

    deanc New Member

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    I've never owned a motorcyle without a dipstick. If it's an internal combustion engine, it uses oil - and therefore has a way to change and check the oil level. I was a mechanic years ago - I've never even heard of a motorcycle that had no way to check or refill the oil. Where do people come up with this stuff?
     


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  11. reg71

    reg71 Poser Staff Member

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    my vfr doesn't
     


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  12. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Lots of bikes, Yamahas and Kawis especially-- some Hondas too-- have a "sight glass" window on lower clutch cover about 1" in diameter to see oil level, which is Ok at midpoint of window and easily allows some assesment of oil cleanliness.


    OIL CHANGE:

    TWO IMPORTANT points were not yet mentioned: Fill oil filter by hand, slowly, allowing some time for oil to soak in untill it appears about 2/3 full before mounting on engine; also, crank while keeping "Off-Run" switch in OFF position until after the red oil pressure light goes out. This protects rod and main bearings from a dry start and prolongs their health.
     


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  13. deanc

    deanc New Member

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    Sorry, not meaning to start a flame war - I said "that had no way to check or refill the oil". Dipstick and sight glass are both ways to check the oil level.

    I've owned at least one Suzuki, several Kawasakis, and one Honda, with sight gauges instead of dipsticks.

    I gotta stick to my guns here - all motorcycles have a way to check or refill the oil.

    ###
    As far as the synthetic oil thing goes - you CAN mix-n-match synthetic and dinosaur oil, no harm will come to your engine. You can switch back-n-forth from one to the other, no harm will come to your engine. As long as you use oil that has the appropriate API service ratings (or better), it's all good.

    The only problem I've ever seen with using synthetic oil, is that some motorcycle clutch plates will slip if you use synthetic oil designed for cars. But that usually can be resolved by dis-assembly and spraydown with brake cleaner, letting the clutch plates dry, re-assembly, and re-fill with oil.

    <opinion rant on>
    IMO, dinosaur oil is fine for 99.99999% of people in the world, if they change their oil regularly - including an oil change before & after winterizing or de-winterizing their bike. Everyone has differing opinions on this subject, there are a lot of passionately held beliefs in this area - YMMV.
    </opinion rant off>
     


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  14. handchops

    handchops New Member

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    as far as checking your oil, chances are if you don't have a dipstick or a sight window your bike may have a weep bolt you remove to check your oil level.
    in other words you loosen said bolt and when oil weeps out you are at the proper level.
     


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  15. deanc

    deanc New Member

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    Thanks, I'd forgotten about that method.
     


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