New VFR owner

It's nice to have a good resource close by. A mechanic with the same bike/similar bike is an endless source of knowledge!! I'll have to keep an eye out for you, I'm often down in the bay area/san fran. I usually ride my ZX7 down there though.

I'm curious, I haven't looked too much into the conversion but how do you drop weight with the CBR conversion?

I've put my 3rd gen on a diet. So far I've changed out my stock headers for some Delkevics (-3 lbs), replaced the can with an akrapovic (-5 lbs)and pulled ALL of the PAIR stuff off - more than what's been posted on line, this involves pulling the carbs and capping off all of the little ports and sealing/welding all of the openings next to the exhaust header ports (just over 6 lbs), removed passenger pegs and grab rails (about 2 lbs at most). I saved a little weight when I changed over to a Penske rear shock but not much. any other ideas would be nice.

I may be getting a little obsessive. My girlfriend tells me I'm cheating on her with my Honda.

 

Recently bled both the front and rear brakes as well as the hydraulic clutch. The brakes weren't too bad actually but the hydraulic fluid was a green-black tinge. Bled with some Motul RBF600.

While i was at it, I decided to change my oil. Used a K&N filter and Repsol 10w-40 full synthetic. Oh, and then I took it to a dyno

[video=youtube_share;vG2nTCsWUCg]http://youtu.be/vG2nTCsWUCg[/video]

If you want to skip all the boring parts, skip to 2:20. Otherwise, enjoy the sound of 83hp
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Nice video!!! I am glad I disabled my PAIR crap too, what a bunch of garbage, shame that the government can screw with manufacturers like that. :sad: My bike amazes me every time I take it out. Its a relationship thats lasted since I gots it back in 1995. I got a F3 front wheel on my bike with aftermarket rotors, same spacers as old viffer wheel and everything bolted up perfect. Well cheers...

 

There are times when I get hungry and take the VFR out to get some food. As soon as I hit 6k rpm, I lose my appetite and next thing you know, I'm in the mountains for 3 hours because maybe I'll get a burrito up there...

It's funny that the VFR is my most reliable bike, yet it's the one that gets all my love and money. The other bikes just sit in the garage with envious headlights.

 

Sigh. so out of the blue, the VFR died. again. I thought it would be another R/R issue or maybe some loose wires. I had some problems before with my starter relay wires coming loose but I ziptied the plug down so it wouldn't back off the starter relay. This fixed my issue of "dead bike". In the past 9 months, I have also replaced the R/R, battery, and stator. The wiring harness is a VFRness.

Anyway, I had rode to school yesterday morning. When I came back to my bike, no power. I quickly went through the check list...

-Did anybody touch my bike and shift gears, etc. No, bike is in neutral and no power.
-Check battery and starter relay for loose wires. Nothing, everything is solid.
-Check main fuse. the 30amp fuse on the starter relay is blown. Replaced with another fuse but still no power. The fuse doesn't blow again when I turn the key to the on position.

I towed the bike back home and started stripping everything down. The R/R looks perfectly fine and the wires are normal. I had replaced my R/R in January of 2012 so I would hope it doesn't fail randomly.
I look to the ignition switch and take off the front upper fairing to look at all the fuses and connections. No loose wires, everything looks to be in order but still no power.

By no power, I mean no electricity at all going through the bike, no indicators go on, pressing the starter does nothing(no clicks, no whirring). I would assume that the main fuse would blow again if I had power but there doesn't seem to be a complete circuit. I have ordered a starter relay off ebay from another 90 VFR in hopes that it might help.

 

Those old bikes sure are pretty. Good luck with the electricals.






.

 

Sigh. new starter relay came in and didn't fix the problem. So over the course of 4 days, I probably disassembled the bike 4 or 5 times and inspecting every connection and making sure everything was clean. And then of course as I am about to give up, I flick the top of the gauges and all the lights magically turned on.

what.

 

White wheels on a 90? Mine are gold.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

Mine are powdercoated. I need to have the front redone as the previous owner got some brake cleaner which permanently smudged the wheels.

I think I will be trying the Factory Pro Shift Kit soon. It's the only real issue I have left with the bike.

 

On the to-do list:

1. Clutch Plates & Spring. I think I will be giving Barnett a try.
2. Rear Tire
3. Factory Pro Shift Kit.

Here's the total money I have invested so far into the bike.
Initial cost - $1700
Front tire - $130
Brake pads - $80 for both front and rear
Stator - $80
Cooling System Refresh & Final Drive Explosion - $200 in parts $400 in labor. I had some seals replaced in the coolant system as well as the r/r and neutral/clutch/kickstand switch replaced.
Seat Cover - $20
Oil change - $75 for oil and filter. Repsol Synthetic 10-40w
Brake Fluid - $15
Battery - $100
X-Ring Chain and steel sprockets - $170

I'm just going to round up and say it's around $3000 now into the bike including the initial purchase.
And close to if not over $550 for the clutch, shift kit, and rear tire.

I could have bought a much nicer bike with way less miles but would I enjoy it as much? Probably not.

 

Those are all basically general wear items that need to be replaced on alot of second hand bikes that you could have possibly purchased. I see bikes that are a few years old and the ad reads: new tyres or chain and sprockets; personaly, I would rather choose which tyre to mount and which chain/sprocket combo to go with. Its not like they are entitled to more money just because they furnish you with new rubber right? Same in the car industry; your not going to get more money for your "hoopty" if you just invested in four new Michelins.

Your still beating the system along with having a great, unique bike! Cheers, we want more pictures! We (and I think I can speak loosly for all these readers) would be happy to oggle the gf's hawk too btw :tongue:

 

did you find the inter-mitten electrical fault?

 

I was not able to find the problem. It happened again when I was leaving my friend's house and I just slapped the dash a few times while turning on and off the ignition. 10 minutes later, all lights turn on and I go home.

Other than that, I truly love the VFR and can't imagine a different bike to own. I'm thinking about selling off my 76 CB550 in favor of the new CRF250L but only time will tell..

I actually sold my girlfriend's Honda Hawk GT in favor of a Honda CB-1

I have since replaced both the tires with Michelin Pilot Road 3, lubed the cables, replaced the bar ends, and I bought a Kerker 4-1 for $200 that I am going to have ceramic coated. Basically leaving the bike to my girlfriend to learn how to properly maintain a bike. I even started taking her up into the mountains with me and she is definitely improving her riding.

Photo Album - Imgur Here's an album with a few photos from the past 2 years. Honda Hawk GT, 82 CB750F, 76 CB550K, 05 Yamaha Zuma, 78 XL350 and I think there may be a photo of a 72 CL125 somewhere there too.

 

Love the CB1, that was my first bike.
A SS brake line makes a big difference, it is a cheap mod since you just need 1 line.
You can drop in a 93-95 CBR900RR shock and have a much improved set up that is now fully adjustable.
You can't get air filters, if it still has the paper element you'll need to gut it and replace with uni foam or something.
Also beware of the R/R on them, they have their issues as well.
The PO did the tail light mod where the plastic spacer is removed to tuck the light in.

 

900RR shock is already installed but I want to lower it just a tad for my girlfriend. She's on her tippy toes right now which isn't the worst scenario but she would be much more comfortable with both feet firmly planted on the ground.

Now about my VFR... I finally got around to changing the rear BT-023 for a Pilot Road 3 after 8,000 miles. Went with the same size as I haven't had any problems with 180/55/17. I am also ordering the Factory Pro Shift kit, a new shift rod and shift lever to just refresh things a little bit. After that, I may rebuild the clutch master cylinder and front brake master cylinder with new seals and banjo bolts. I was also able to pinpoint the intermittent electrical fault to the ignition switch. Just bought another one off ebay and replaced my old one in under an hour. No problems whatsoever!

 

Gotta keep 'em running wha'eva the cost.

* You may have made a mistake, i think, ditching a Hawk in favor of a CB-1. It's all revs, and you're always needing to shift, unlike a Hawk.

Now if you really need to lower the bike for a girlfriend, maybe you need a taller gf or she needs to ride a smaller bike than a VFR.......like a Hawk, a PERFECT little doll. The top-heavy nature of a VFR can be a challenge to a shorter, lighter rider. I've always considered the Hawk an ideal bike for females of any average size.

guess what i'm sayin is it takes a bit more to get used to the bigger, heavier bike. I'm only 5'4" vertically and accustomed myself in just a few rides to handle my '86 VFR and '97, both bikes that felt too big at first. Riders who think they need a bike lowered (except dirtbikes, of course) usually just lack confidence and need more experience.

Since lowering a bike has negative handling effects, better to change the rider than the bike, iddint ??

 

Factory Pro shift kit installed. Was expecting a huge change but not too different. It doesn't feel that much firmer but I have yet to miss a shift... Will post an update once I've logged 2k miles.

Edit: I went to the International Motorcycle Show and got myself a Powerlet kit. Now I have my Valentine 1 radar detector wired up to the windshield!

 

I used to use my Valentine One velcroed to my tank bag along with their ear phone jack set-up in NJ. Ran it directly to the battery as the fuse panel (clock) fuse I would get false laser readings. When I moved to south FL, my speeds increased where I needed to get under the bubble and ditched the tank bag. Seems at those speeds its more prudent to keep going than stop for some pos leo. :flip:

I have a factory pro shift kit on my bike for over 60,000 miles. Its more sturdy detent arm than the crap that the factory give you. I have worn holes thro many pairs of boots riding.

I recently had the unit sent back as it was old, talking like 94 or so. I had to pay for the new unit but I tell you, it worked tits in TX. I drove 4000 miles and was crusing as fast as the rental car would go, 120 mph or so, and that damn bird dog sniffed out leo with me being able to adjust my speed. Valentine is dah Shizzle!

 

Well it looked like it was about time for new brake pads. And so I figured, what the hell, I'll rebuild the brakes at the same time. I've ordered OEM Honda parts to rebuild the two front calipers and brake master cylinder as well as EBC Organic Pads. HH sintered pads have a little too much bite for me.

also, VFR feels great at 140mph.

 

Clutch re-build along with a new slave cylinder is in your future, and I am not a fortune teller. I have the EBC organics waiting in my tool box, I use their iron rotors with those HH pads and have seen zero wear on them.

I had my viffer up to 145 mph for a nano second the other day, she is a sweet cruise missle...ride safe...btw, I dont like honda brake fluid, its yellow and nasty out of the box, I go with Bel-Ray dot 4 stuff....Cheers.