Need some advise

Hi,

Have 1 1986 VF1000R (boght new in 1990). Sitting in my garage for the last 7 years. What steps do I need to take in order to safely (for the engine) to start it?


ThanX, Yuval

 

Make sure all gas is drained from carbs/tank.
-Remove all spark plugs
-Spray fogging oil (preferable) or WD-40 into spark plug holes to lubricate the cylinder walls.
-Let sit for 2 days
-Open airbox and make sure air filter is there - not in pieces and that there is no mouse nest etc...inspect the exhaust too. Replace air filter of not good.
-Put bike in high gear and see if you can rotate engine by rotating back tire by hand. If you can rotate, put plugs back in.
-Drain and replace the oil and filter.
-Fill the carbs with gas by jumping the fuel pump or using an auxiliary fuel tank.
-Hit the START button with the kill switch in the OFF position until the oil pressure light goes out. (Don't hold the start button longer than 7 seven seconds - you don't want to overheat the starter)
-Move the kill switch to the RUN position and hit the starter.
-Once running, change the oil and filter after 500 miles.

Note: Unless the carbs were stored without gas - or gas/stabil, you will need to have the carbs disassembled, dip-cleaned, and reassembled.

 

Appreciate it.

 

And once the 1000 is running:

New Tires for sure and maybe new chain and sprockets.

Also, a repair manual too!

BZ

 

Excellent advice.
I loved the bit about checking the air filter & exhaust for mice!

However, I'm concerned about using WD-40 to pre-lube the cylinder walls.

While WD-40 works as a very light lubricant, in reality it's a degreaser (& water displacer, hence the "WD), and will actually strip any oil from the cylinder walls and rings.

The common long-standing method has been to use 1-2 tablespoons of fresh motor oil in the cylinders.
After sitting for a couple days and hand-cranking the engine it will lubricate sufficiently until the oil pump fills and provides adequate oil pressure.

Perhaps a synthetic motor oil will penetrate better, or maybe Marvel Mystery Oil might be the very best thing.

I love the many uses of WD-40, but I personally wouldn't use it for this purpose.


Also, most bikes won't even let the starter crank with the Kill Switch off.

A better route would be to leave the spark plugs out to remove any compression, and disconnect the 'positive' wires from the coils to prevent any spark from the plug leads.
Then the starter will crank with little battery-killing resistance or having to charge the coils.

 

Do you have any pictures of your 1000R? The '86 is a very sought after bike.

 

All good advice and I'm with Rat on the WD40 in the cylinder thing, go find some Shaler- Rislone, its made for just this thing.
http://www.barsproducts.com/rislone_history.htm
I did this when the plugs where out, I also turned it over also checking the plugs firing.

Big thing here is the old fuel issue, hope it was put away dry. and Hell yea where the photos dude?

 

The next step will be checking the brake system. The fluid will more than likely be bad and the calipers should be taken apart and serviced.

I'll be doing the same to my '84 next spring. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the update on the WD-40. I was just thinking of something that would lubricate the cylinder walls without fouling the plugs when trying to start.

P.S. All mid 80's Honda V-4's will allow the starter to turn over the motor when the kill switch is off. It's a great feature that allows the rider to determine how many cranks it takes to drain a perfectly good battery...

 

:lol: :lol: :doh: ound: ound:
Bwahahahahaha!!

I know the feeling!

 

Alway's wear a condom !

oops, wrong thread, nevermind

ound: ound: ound: ound: ound: ound: ound: ound: ound: ound: ound: ound: ound:

Well it did start with he needed advice