Mechanical assistance

I didn't crack anything, don't worry! Someone bopped the plate with a rubber mallet and cracked the housing. It's a thread on here, he was a student at some place or other.

I'll be holding off the carb clean until I have a friend coming over the first weekend of August, he's clued up so it'll be better with two sets of eyes and hands on it. Looking forward to it! If it all goes to sh*t, I have an SV1000 as a backup/second bike.

 

I just log on here to view that avatar above, :boobies7:

SV1000 is sought after, not too many floating around compared to the dogged oot 650s. Like carbureted bikes compared to the FI ones. Good luck, Cheers

 

Here's the thou



And here's the 750 as of this afternoon









Everything's getting the once over, all the bolts for fairings replaced. Fairing wrapped, wheels powder coated, got some Maxton reworked forks and rear shock en route. Wish me luck getting it back together! Those fairings around the lights seemed to have one million billion bolts Couldn't get the mud guard or side stand fairing due to ridiculously rusted on bolts. Getting those drilled out soon.

 

Wow, that bike looks ace. Way to go. Love the Castrol colours. I think I have the same brake lines for the fronts, HEL - Whats the round rubber thing with a line/hose on the front fork where the front calipers are?

 

Yeah the Castrol colours are good, they're going though in favour of a solid white & black mixture - yet to decide on what way I'm having it, got a friend vinyl wrapping it for me.

Can always recreate those Castrol colours - not hard with some vinyl and cutting tape.

Back riding the SV this morning as the 750 is in bits, god damn this thing wants to rip your arms off and the noise is phenomenal. Got crap brakes though so I've got a caliper & master cylinder rebuild kit waiting to go on and some better levers as the ones on it are awful. I don't actually want to change anything on the SV looks wise - I had to put bar end mirrors on though as in the space of a week my right hand bar end worked itself loose and the retaining bolt inside the handlebar worked it's way down the bar, so can't get to it anymore...AND...my right hand mirror decided to play loosey goosey and wouldn't stay put. So killed two birds with one stone. Looks much more minimal at the front now but I like it. I'll probably get the suspension revolved at some point as it's ten years old now, still handles nicely but isn't as graceful as the VFR (which when you think about it, is 25 years old and running original springs etc!).

 

Can an Admin change the title of this thread to 'VFR750 rebuild' ? I might as well keep everything in here!

 

Final bits removed today, she's looking sorry for herself. Benefit is that I can do all the engine work in relative ease now though!







One last pic of how she was...

 

Wrap and wheels should be done this time next week, hoping to have had the carbs out and cleaned by then as well. Thinking about powder coating the fork legs and pillion hangers, reckon black would be a bit too much on a white bike with silver frame?

 

Wheels are with the powder coaters, panels with my friend for wrapping (going for a white/carbon fibre mixture), receive a complete fairing nuts/bolts replacement kit (instructions are poor on this but I'll figure it I'm sure!)

I've also bought a plastex kit so my friend and I can repair the broken tabs etc. Looking forward to getting it back together. Just waiting on my Maxton forks/shock and cleaning out the carbs, the carbs hopefully will be done this weekend coming.

 

I removed my secondary air cleaner along with the hose, so your just looking at a t-fitting coming out of the carburetor, the one to the crank case remains. I removed the honda think little toilet thing that catches gas under the tank too :thumbsup: Those gold tabs should not be folded over, it does not matter mind you, just means someone had their meat hooks into the carburetors. Not surprising since the bike probably had a "bunch" of owners. I got a set of carburetors from the internet that was un-finger-fuked, but I had serious vacumm issues with the old ones and could not get it running correcty. Cheers, nice pictures

 

When you say gold tabs, do you mean on the bits surrounding the trumpets? (no idea what the technical term for these is).

Also, can I remove that top plate with the trumpet bits or is that the part people are saying to leave wellllllllllllll alone?

Thanks!

 

Yeh those folded tabs on the top of the plate where the velocity stacks are, (not trumpets, but pretty funny/cute.) On an untouched bike, these would be upright, not folded down. When I bought mine used, I was looking for these, so I knew no monkey was into them. :loco:

DO NOT REMOVE THAT TOP PLATE OR TRUMPETS OR YOUR GONA BE REALLY SORRY! sorry about the bold face mate. Even if you get the oem Honda rebuild kits for these carbs, btw, the bowl gasket kit does not come with the float needles or brass seat. So, your gona need, 4 bowl gasket kits, and 4 of the float needle kits. It adds up but in my opinion is worth it. On the gasket kit, Honda thoughtfully provided a gasket you will not use, its for those "trumpets" its rather large and has three rubber tabs. Just save these as we (YOU) are not gona touch them velocity stacks or de-rack them carburetors.

All the cleaning and air blowing can be done as you take the carburetors off the bike. Good luck, dont mix up parts, #1 carburetor wants its slide/spring/diaphram back to its correct home. Take is slow and enjoy it, when your done, before you re-install, blow some air into that t-fittingthats accessable because you hopefully removed your secondary air filter, see if the slides rise up ok, if not, you got a pinched diaphram or worse. Good luck.

 

This is only the case if I remove the top plate though, right? Otherwise I'm quite alright doing the clean without worrying about rebuild kits etc? They're VERY costly. A friend of mine who's done carb cleaning multiple times on his Honda's has advised me I can do this without having to replace gaskets etc as it's just rubber seals that're in place (this is just opening the carbs for a clean..to be clear).

Apologies for my naivity in this, just want to ensure I have all my ducks lined up before I dive into this!

Trumpets is a good way of describing them I think

 

You should hear my Vee-Fours "trumpet" down the expressway. It is music I tell you!

You should be ok, my carburetors that were on the bike were seriously hacked. I also had to trailor this bike home as it had not been run in a while. You can get after market bowl gaskets from a company called K&L off Ebay. Far as the needle and seats go, if the bike was a running bike of some sort, you should do alright I guess. One of my favourite tools is a big electric magnifying glass in my shop, this way you can inspect jets and needles etc. The bowl gaskets may or may not give you trouble, only one way to see, I have access to parts and go my own route on this stuff, there is no "right" answer.

Take some pictures as we love seeing that stuff. btw Velocity Stacks sound pretty bad arse too :thumbsup:

 

Yeah Velocity stacks sounds a fair bit better.

Good to know I can do this without having to spend a fortune, I love the bike but would have to draw the line at £200+ for a bit of rubber, it's insane.

Fingers crossed it all goes well, I've got a good network of mates who can help me with the bike to get it back to its best. Will keep everyone updated

 

Check the thermostat when you get those carburetors off, its cheap insurance to change it along with the o-ring, I did the hoses that go to it along with some other ones. It will be right there once you get the carbs off, seems prudent to take care of it now. :thumbsup:

 

Already had that replaced a few weeks ago

Is there anywhere I can spray a carb cleaner (I've got a tin of aerosol cleaner) that'll get to the jets without removing anything? I saw this video and it got me thinking:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YExxhLYHkHY

 

Jeez, your gona go quick and dirty with your ? If you wana do it the "rigged" way, try removing your fuel mixture screws, be sure to get oot them o-rings, they are on the end of the needle jet, so you got: needle jet, spring, washer, o-ring. Blow carburetor cleaner in the hole and follow with compressed air. It may or may not work. You can also introduce a special carbuertor cleaner into the hose where the fuel petcock goes, I don't know what you have "over there" here we have BG and I use some Yamaha stuff. You can drain your bowls, then get the liquid carb cleaner, fill em up and wait over night. This could work depending how mucked up your carburetors are. Good luck

 

Well I bought some spare carbs and decided to strip them down and clean them up. Suppose this could be used as a bit of a visual how-to guide. More than willing to be corrected on this as I've NEVER done it before!

So first step - I checked everything over, ensured the throttle linkage opened the butterfly valves correctly, all good there! Then I checked the slides, one stuck straight off - the other three moved freely but didn't quite make the suction sound I'd say was 'healthy' - any ideas on this one?

Anyway - Initial pics of delivery and the stuck slide





Started by removing the slide cover - be careful as the spring is under the lid, note the slide rubbers orientation - can't go wrong if you notice the notch towards the bottom as there's that exact notch on the rubber slide:



Cleaned that up with carb cleaner

Then I removed the float bowl cover on the rearL



Then removed the Jets (had to use a wrench on the bigger jet, smaller jet was fine with a flat head screw driver. Be careful though as they're cheese...I mean brass



Then I dunked the jets on carb cleaner (best using a glass bowl for this) - they were relatively clean but still has nasty stuff on them and quickly dirtied the carb cleaner:



I also sprayed carb cleaner into the holes in the float bowl - all the holes, to make sure it was all cleared out, would love to have jammed some compressed down there but don't have the equipment:



I sprayed carb cleaner into the bowl lid, it went from this:



To this:



I also cleaned off the slide rubber and needle, used carb cleaner on the needle and wd40 on the rubber:



I sprayed the wd40 into the slide hole to ensure it was lubed up for the slide, did the same on the slide itself as well



Then put it all back together and did the other three. I was advised to do one at a time - kept it nice and neat and didn't mix any of the jets up. Would this matter though on some bog standard carbs?

Hope this helps someone anyway! Let me know if I missed anything

 

Did you verify all the cross-drilled holes in the emulsion tubes were cleaned out, also the pilot jet diameters and choke jet, what about the mixture screws? a small diameter steel wire such as #12 guitar string works well for this.