Few VFR Ness questions.

Hey just got my VFRness! I would like to say thanks to Wire my Bike for the fast shipping to get my bike up and running again! I have a couple questions about the wiring for you guys that have done it.

Question one.
I see that the Vfrness has a positive and negative terminal set on it. I am not all that familiar with the VFRs wiring. Do you only use the VFRness terminals or do you still plug in the OEM ones to the battery?

Question two.
It seems this adds a fuse between the batt and R/R on the positive side. Does this just protect the R/R from damage from the battery or does it somehow figure into the other 30A fuse that is on the starter relay plug system.

I am going to have to rewire my Starter Relay plug as it is fried so I guess its pretty easy to just slide the one red wire coming off the VFRness into it.

 

Check this link out
Melodude and rink did a great write up so take some time and read them
http://vfrworld.com/forums/5th-gene...how-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.html

 

Thanks scuba I have identified the problem. And have the parts to fix it. That guide seems to go more into putting the R1 Mosfet R/R and test things. I have all the testing done. Just have a 2 questions for the guys who have the VFRness installed.

 

Noob7 - Did you download or look at the installation from the site?? Not to be a dick, but here it is directly from their site.

The VFRness for the 1990-1997 models has been recently redesigned to allow minimal if any tools. This version was originally developed 100% by specs, but recently was adapted more completely with a live installation.

The VFRness includes:

New plug for the R/R
New Positive wires to battery (fused, 10 gauge) and starter relay (12 gauge)
New Ground wire (10 gauge), designed to reach the battery
New Stator wires to plug (28”, 12 gauge)
New Starter Relay plug repair kit. If your starter relay plug is melted or damaged, you can use this to replace it, splicing in each of the wires included into your OEM harness.
Shrink Tubing and solder to aid in any modifications that may need done.


Installation:

Disconnect battery negative cable, then positive cable.

If the Starter Relay connector is good, there is no need to use the included replacement 4 wire connector and 3 splice wires…save these for future need (common problem with this Gen VFR). Simply use a jewelers screwdriver, or similar, to depress the locking tab on the existing Red/White wire, and remove it from the connector. Replace it with the Red 12 gauge wire in the VFRness.

Connect the Red terminal to the battery, routing the harness such that it reaches the R/R easily, and provides access to the Fuse if needed. The fuse holder has a 20 amp fuse included, and a spare to replace the 30 amp installed in the OEM fuse holder. The harness is desgined to run under/in front of the battery, with the Starter Relay and Battery wires coming up in front of the center of the battery.

Connect the VFRness to the R/R, making sure each of the five wires remains in the plug and makes good contact…a bad contact here will cause the charging system to fail. This connector design is prone to the wires slipping out as the locking mechanism, triple check that each wire remained fully in place, especially the Red and Black wires.

On the installation we did, we did not discard the OEM plug and wires, but rather set them aside and protected it from the elements. Follow the original Stator Wire routing with the yellow wires, and connect to the Stator Plug.

Double check that all connections are correct, and test the charging system when complete. Remember to connect the negative terminal of the battery last, to avoid any possible short circuits.


You'll need to remove the OEM 30 amp fuse, and replace that with a 20amp (included). Plus there should already be a 20amp fuse installed in the VFRness. So yes, instead of one 30 amp, you're now running 2 twenty amp.

 

First off all it says is to unplug the original leads. Just trying to be on safe side.

And mine has a 30Amp installed in the Vfrness and no extra 20a came with it so I have no idea what you are talking about. Are you referencing your 2000?

It looks like you would reuse the OEM Terminals because otherwise you wouldnt have a ground.

 

I got her installed, and saw battery wasn't charging still. So I changed the R/R back to the OEM one and she is right at 13.4V Idle and 14.79V in higher revs. My guess is that the Fried plug probably cooked my new R/R I got from Ricks. So guess I will have to order another one from him. Just glad my bike is wurrring away! :tongue:

 

Glad you got it all sorted out.

For clarification, what I posted was directly from wiremybike and was for model years 90 through 97. So for whatever reason, there's a contradiction considering you said it came with a 30amp, but the install instructions on the site clearly state what I copied and pasted.

Maybe drop JT a message and ask him?

 

The printed instructions I got were a bit different. I think I psyc myself out sometimes doing some of this stuff lol! Its all good now. Thanks for the help!