Engine questions..

Replaced valves and springs and got the motor almost fully back together, I have everything torqued down except the valve covers, when I turn the engine over with the alternator bolt it will not turn continuously , turns maybe a turn and a half then stops. I have the plugs removed so it doenst build up pressure and am turning it counterclockwise, it seems like it should turn over continuously, should it?

Also valve clearance in the clymer manual states 15mm for both intake and exhaust, in the honda manual it states 12mm for intake and 13mm for exhaust, which is correct?

Off all day tomorrow so maybe just maybe I can get it back together for the weekend!!!!! :biggrin:

Thanks!!! Yall are always a great help!!!

 

when in doubt, never trust clymer

 

STOP! FREEZE! DO NOT TURN ENGINE! You have cams in wrong and will bend valves! Get a honda manual download free all over the net. cams are not hard to install just need to follow the directions.

 

When I did the crank in mine last year, I had trouble with the cam timing as well. I read the Clymer manual, and I read a bit too much into it! You time all four cams the the "T1" mark, where I was trying to time one bank to T1 and the other bank to T2. May this be what you've done? I also ended up having the rear bank out 1 tooth, as I found out when I pulled it back apart for the valves. I should notice a big performance difference whan I get it back together!

 

Re. Clearences - make sure that you are looking at the back of the Clymer manual for the 1986 specific information. The clearences are different for the 86 compared to the 84-85.

I am about to put my heads back together. Anyone willing to scan the cam installation section from the Honda manual?

 

Yeah I have done this same thing!! I timed the front to T1 and the rear to T2, I will re-time it today all to T1 and see if that helps! As far as the clearances go I will just got with the 12mm intake and 13mm exhaust from the honda manual!

Thanks!

 

Have you fixed the oiling issue while your heads are apart?? It will be a lot easier to do now then later, and might save your engine!

 

Glad that was of help! I had to go back and read it again when I was having troubles, it doesn't say anything about using T2 at all!

What needs to be done? Are you just talking about a top-end oiling kit, or something internal to the heads that will help?

 

I was just talking about the top end oiling kit, its a lot easier to install while the heads are out. The 84 and 85 vf500's are more prone to this oiling issue, but I noticed some signs of it on my 86 while it was apart.

 

I am not doing the oil kit on mine. I have spent enough on the bike already. If Jamie's $125 kit was still available I MIGHT have considered it, but I am not spending the $200-400 that others charge.

I hope to be ok by treating the engine like the 26 year old that it is (avoid >10k rpm). My cams are in really good shape as are the rockers, so I hope to have luck on my side that things will be ok. I know that this is a gamble based on what I have learned from Jamie's previous descriptions of the problem. I am taking the chance.

 

I know what you mean by saving money, but a $200 oiling kit could be a lot cheaper than a $500+ motor, just a thought..

Another clymer/honda manual difference, when timing the front head, the honda manual says to time from the left side of the motor(alternator side), and the clymer says to time it from the right side(clutch cover side). Which is correct? They both agreed on the back head which I done from the left side.

 

Using the Clymer's manual, I used the diagram that showed what way the cam lobes should be pointed. I'm 90% sure that you time the front head from the side opposite the rear head. I used the side that the gears bolt onto.

 

Ok thanks! Yeah the gears bolt onto opposite sides so that would be correct. Thanks for all your help, hopefully I will have this thing running again soon!

 

All this talk about you getting your bike back together makes me want to get mine back together as well! I've been wringing the crap out of the Ninja 250, and I could use the additional power the 500 has!

 

HAHA, I have had to go back to riding my honda crf150 that I converted to a dual sport!! lol Got her back together and running today!!! one problem..

Valve ticking seems unusually loud, could my valve clearances be off or will the ticking soften once the motor is run a bit ???

Thanks

 

REALLY, REALLY LOUD ticking needs to be investigated NOW as it's UNlikely to improve.

IT couldn't possibly be piston-to-valve contact cuz your cam timing is 100% correct, right ?

WHENEVER re-setting valve clearances the bottoms of all the adjusting screws should be inspected for flattening, distortion. ANY flaws mean the SCREW (and locknut) SHOULD BE REPLACED !! Neglecting this means the new clearance will change soon.

 

Well the ticking is not realy, really loud, when riding it is not even noticable (only rode it for 1/4 mile), would the valve clearances being off cause the ticks to be louder? If so how do yall clearance them, any special tips or tricks that could help me out next time??
Im pretty sure its not piston to valve, I lined up all the timing marks exactly like they were supposed to be, is there any way to tell this without taking the whole engine back apart?

And yes, you should have seen the screw off of the bent valve I had, it was flattend all the way down past the threads, had to replace the rocker arm with it, after seeing that I replaced all distorted ones.

also anyone got a valve cover screw they can ship asap???

 

I have a couple of my '85. Send me a PM if you still need it!

 

PM sent!

Thanks!!!

 

Would it hurt the bike to ride it just to the local honda shop (10 miles) to have the mechanic there check the valve clearances on it?