Buffeting comparison

Better for the long haul? Gen 1 or Gen 2? Even with the adjustable screen, my Gen 1 has a lot of buffeting.

Thanks in advance.

 

Define "Gen 1" / "Gen 2". Us yanks typically have a different definition of Gen 1 from much of the world.

 

So mine is a UK '88. Basically a slightly fancier US '87. I found an '97 and a '93 in need of rescuing and was just wondering if there is less buffeting than my '88. I rode the '88 this morning and I noticed most of my issues were above 80mph on the gauge. I guess I could slow down.

Another side question.. How many revs would I lose by dropping the rear sprocket 2 teeth. I was hoping to get 6th gear around 5k rpm at 73-ish mph.

 

Deep down, the RC36-I and II and VERY similar. The II is much more refined though and you can feel it when you ride them back to back (which I do quite often). Engine response, power and chassis feel. Both built, tuned and suspension upgraded by me. The -II was also over 20 lbs lighter than the -I with the addition of a factory installed center stand. The same project leader that designed the CBR900RR (class shattering wight and size) was tasked with putting the VFR on it's diet. Every major component, bracket (and bolts) was examined for reducing weight while retaining strength for its job. You can instantly see it when walking around both bikes, and feel it. Not saying the RC36-II is "light", but it is definitely lighter.

But the -II has styling that is polarizing. I like it, but I also like my 92... a lot. What's not to like. The -II bodywork is put together better but is still a fragile puzzle. Hmmm... am I answering your question?

I think the RC36 has a "cleaner" rider pocket than the 24. But I haven't jumped off my stock 86 and right onto my 92 or 95 and ridden the exact same road/speed. I can tho. Probably pretty soon. I'm 5'10" btw.

I think the vents at the bottom of the screen on both RC36 versions help reduce buffeting by reducing some negative pressure behind the screens.

Side note between the two versions... If you ever wanted to do a race replica (RC30), the RC36-II frame fits the bill MUCH better and is why it's the basis for so many Tribute bikes.

 

I don't know how many revs each tooth will affect. I'm sure it can be calculated somewhere by someone.

A cheap/easy experiment would be to go up one on the front sprocket which is like going down between 2 and 3 on the rear (~2.7 on some bikes I've computed). That result might allow you to make a better choice on a rear if it was way too much or kinda close to desired.

 

Solid info, thank you! I was leaning towards the RC36 II, mainly due to cost. I was looking for a project to use my RC45 bodywork. This just might work out!

 

Oooohhhhhh.... yeah... that would work out.

 

Its unpainted Airtech, but I have a Yam FZ headlight that fits the mold and a complete set minus a seat pan. Maybe missing a front fender. Been years sitting on the kit. I will have to investigate if all works out.

 

Fixed it for ya.

 

PERFECT! hahaha