96 VFR cutting off.

Hey guys I'm Chris,

I believe this site is the most reliable with more people willing to help so here I will post the same thread I posted on VFRdiscussion. Keep in mind this is my first bike. I do have a 95 that I have been using for parts. Though I am not clueless as to how engines work, carbuertors are new to me but that's about it. I have troubleshooted plenty of cars and fixed/restored certain things. I've been reading a lot of threads lately trying to figure out what's going on. If you can't understand anything I was talking about on the post just ask! Please do! I will describe what's going on the best of my abilities.

It all started the yesterday when I stalled out and when I went to start the bike again it was completely dead. This is a new Battery! The old one was new too but I seem to have had to get it replaced as it had good voltage but the core went bad. This was from the previous week of trouble shooting a different problem. I ended up fixing it and then I broke down again. Currently my 96 has to be jumped to start, the charging system isn't good enough to charge the battery obviously. Last night, I would jump it and then let it run for a while and when I shut it off it would seem to have absolutely no juice left as I tried to start it again. I've already changed out the R/R from my 95 the old one was smoking lol. I've had the main fuse pop a couple times when that was happening and I knew it was that because I had no lights or anything with the ignition on. I need to check the 3 yellow wires on the connector of the R/R today. It has to be running for me to check that voltage for those 3 wires correct?

Here is the link for original post.
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/81743-my-96-cutting-off/page-3#entry1009637

 

I could use all the help I could get guys and I appreciate any opinions. Yes I have the service manual!

 

You checked the plug on the 3 yellow wires and also inspected the red plug on top of starter relay ?? Both those plugs can screw up charging if they're burned or partly melted. You need to pull the red plug off and inspect the bottom side.

To check the stator output the engine must be running. Read AC voltage between pairs of wires at various engine speeds. All OK if you see about 8 volts at idle and about 60 at 5000 rpm. AC volts !!

 

look for the drill on this site, it will walk you through it

 

Okay cool! And nope not will check those plugs as soon as I get home

 

Thanks was looking at it earlier

 

Yep sounds like what is some what common with these bikes, so you're on the right path . BTW good to see you've pick the right version, even though at this moment you're wondering.. It will work out. Stay strong.

 

Appreciate it man yeah the worst fear is knowing you could break down on the streets

 

Not to go off topic but...... What's the story behind your username? 20B?

 

Yup, a 20b Cosmo is my dream car

 

Man, I was hoping to see some pics of a gnarly 3 rotor FD swap or something like that haha.

 

Haha no I wish. Hey so it's been starting now, but it's lacking power in low speeds and popping a lot

 

Stop riding it, you are wasting your time till you have done the drill, nearly every day somebody turns up here with charging problems, it is the most failing component on these bikes and all because Honda fit a cheapo,crap connector between the stator and rec/reg and when it melts and shorts out it takes everything else with it.

 

Right now it's my only way of transportation to work but I'm trying to get something else soon. I won't get rid of the VFR. I've got the R1 R/R coming in the mail soon though

 

Before you fit the new R/R you need to do the drill from Melodude, otherwise you could end up cooking the new R/R. When you do get it sorted chop out the connector on the yellow wires and solder and heatshrink them. This connector screws up every charging system on these VFR's eventually, it is the most important modification that needs doing to every one of them. It is a known fault and Honda has done nothing to solve the problem in the 30 odd years they have been building them

 

Hey guys had a friend from vfrdiscussion come and check out my bike today. I need a new stator, the old one is shot. Can anyone recommend a good one? And while I'm down there I'm gonna replace my clutch too recommendations on a good one as well would be cool too! Lemme know

 

Threerotor, you did not specify how the jump start was accomplished. If the supplier is a car, the car should not be running. The alternator can and will fry charging components on your bike, including ones that you just replaced.

 

Yeah I had the car off when I decided to jump it. It's fine now though, the battery has around 12.9 before starting it reaches as high as 16 volts when revving the bike. Not good

 

??? I don't get it. The stator is shot, but still able to put 16 volts to the battery? When stators go bad it's usually a short and the result is less output. It is pretty normal for a battery to show 15+ volts when the engine is running at 5000 RPM with the original shunt type R/R. Since putting the new mosfet R/R on mine the voltage doesn't go over 14.

Think about it before you buy another stator.

Cheers,
Glenn

 

Wow, I just read the vfrd post and feel sorry for that poor bike.

I'm with Glen on this one. If you're getting 16V, which is the max allowable voltage, then the stator and rr seem to be working.

Batteries are very finicky contraptions. They don't like to be low and they definitely don't liked to be charged at too high of a current rate, such as hooked up to a running truck. That being said, charging is a process where all the molecules are returned to their original state. This takes time and shouldn't be rushed. Voltage readings, alone, will not always give you a true picture of the batteries state. One important factor is known as surface charge. This is what you are reading, when you check a battery right after charging. It will always be higher than the true voltage, which is why you should wait about an hour after charging, to get the true voltage. A battery can show a good voltage, but not have enough power to function properly. This is why they have the load test.

You should always charge a new battery before installing it. You should always have a battery fully charged before doing the drill. You should never use your VFR to charge a dead battery. Some alternators will not charge at idle speed.

Class dismissed.