86 Carb removal,clean,install. Suggestions/Advice

I think I may need to do a manual carb clean. I still have a serious high idle problem, idles up to about 4000 rpm with no choke on. Have sprayed some wd on the carb boots and not noticed any result from that. I currently have some sea foam soaking in the carbs that I added to the fuel, but Im not counting on that to work, although I do hear and read it works near miracles. any one have any advice to a manual carb cleaning?

 

This is for the earlier carbs, but yours should be very similar: http://users.rcn.com/kochc/moto/carb/carb.html

Note: you don't have to remove the throttle shaft felt washer for the dipping process. It won't hurt the felt - plus, who has staked screws to put the throttle plates back in?

 

V4 carbs for V4dan

Hey back again, This is a big job. 1st., thottle screw working prop. 2nd.,Thottle cable not hung up or pulling.The carbs can be a bitch getting in & out. becareful. How about carb sync? Wish I could be there.

 

Im gonna do one more test before I decide to do/have this job done. Im gonna disconnect the throttle cable from the carbs completely and start the bike, just to make sure it is not a cable problem. This may sound stupid but what throttle screw are you talkin bout pjvtech? The idle screw? It is turned as far out as can be without actually coming out of the threads. Would carbs, out of sync, cause a high idle? carbs were cleaned not that long ago,supposedly but im not sure there is any truth to that. The guy I bought it from said he had the carbs cleaned but from some other things he did to the bike I think its safe to say he wasnt very thorough.

 

If you can hear the throttle plates SNAP shut when you let go of the throttle grip, then it is probably not a throttle cable problem. A very bad carb sync can cause: high idle, different idles when throttle is closed (especially when riding), loping idle.

If you're not sure how well the carbs were cleaned, might as well take them apart and verify everything is in it's proper place. Sounds like he did not do a bench sync or a spring came out causing one carb to idle high. This one carb can pull the other's with it.

A very good bench sync can be done with a 3/32" slip of paper. Use it as a feeler gauge between the throttle plate and the bore. Make sure you slip it into the bore furthest away from the throttle shaft. Go in order of carb sync until you get the same pull for every carb. Then turn the idle adjustment screw in until it touches and then 2 complete turns after. This should give you about 2-3K rpm idle after the bike warms up.

A carb sync is the last step in tuning your carbs - if everything else has been setup correctly.

 

Yes, the idle screw, good man. If the carbs are dirty, the bike is starving for fuel, why would a lack of gas cause high idle? I would hate to see you get into a carb clean that turns into a nightmare.Just trying to help, good luck V4dan. Is it super crappy out there weather wise? I don't think spring will ever come.jonesin' for a ride!

 

Thanks Masonv45, I think the carbs are comin out, I did the last test today to no avail. No difference in Idle and I think it would probably be a good idea to know whats what. Wifey's not gonna like this! AYE! LOL.

 

Yeah weather SUCKS here, cold, snow then rain then freezin rain etc. Im Jonsin too, but I almost take solice in the fact that the weather still sucks with the bike not ready yet. Its when I see everyone else out riding, and my bikes not done, that sucks even more than the weather!

 

3:14 am!!!!. I thought I was the only one up at o - sh*t hundred. Any questions just keep askin'. I'll keep an eye out. You should only have to take off the diaphram covers, float bowls, all jets, float valves. Always good to replace float bowl gaskets. Do not seperate the carbs, it's pointless, gotta run. I have specs for you if needed.

 

Only if you want to do the carbs a second time because half-assing it the first time didn't clean out the myriad small passageways inside the carb that you can't see.

 

Can I assume this is something you've had first hand experience w/ ? If so are you willing to lend your services, it would be well worth the 4 1/2 hr drive if I could find some one I trusted to go thru my carbs. They aren't terrible just think its time to have them looked @, & though I am a diesel wrench by trade I have a strict don't screw w/ carbs yourself policy after toasting a few 2 strokes in my younger days.

 

Right on tbones86, Lets hear it for WI. Four years as Honda tech in Milwaukee area, Did the MMI deal in Phoenix, Yamaha, suzuki, and Honda trained, plus more training at the Honda Training center in Troy,OH. I've done tons of carb cleans, even the CBX1000 in-line 6. If you know how to do it, its a breeze. I miss 2 strokes, such power!

 

pjvtec, you have much more training than I have. So I will have to defer to your experience and training.

I only have my experience and other's experience (from reading V4 message boards since '99) to draw upon.

tbones86, hope pjvtec will let you in on the secret to cleaning the carbs without separating them. But you'll still need to find the proper specs on what goes where to ensure the carbs are setup correctly. If the carbs are clean, but not reassembled correctly, you're screwed.

 

It's rare that carbs REQUIRE separation. I've done this job many times on many different units and the carbs have to real bad (green, gold, fuzzy, smell like varnish, frozen linkage) before I separate them. I've mentioned Yamaha carb cleaner on this site before and the stuff works. It comes in a quart sized bottle that we'd mix 3-1 with water. Yes water. It leaves you with 1 gallon of solution that you can even use again. It won't kill your rubber or felt components. I realize this is the internet, but I wouldn't type it if I hadn't done it. The hardest part of the job is getting the assembly back in the bike.

 

Since I mainly deal with older bikes '86 and down, "green, gold, fuzzy, smell like varnish, frozen linkage" is the norm, not the exception.

The other situation is the PO did a half-assed carb clean, through all the parts into a big pile when he did it, and re-assembled the carbs with the wrong needles/springs etc... in the wrong carb.

Personally, the PO of my bike put one of the choke linkages on the other side of the plenum - and backwards so it would fit - plus drilled out the stock main jets to something, and put the diaphragm springs in the wrong carbs.

 

Quick question, would a faulty fuel cut off relay cause a high idle problem? The PO had bypassed the fuel cut off relay, I reconnected it but it is inop. The fuel pump seems to stop pumping gas but does run alot. I am going to start ordering parts on Friday. New carb boots, an O-ring gasket set, fuel cut off relay. Have not pulled the carbs yet, dont want them sitting around too long before I decide how this job is gonna get done. I may yet attempt this on my own, but still not sure.

 

No - not that I can think of.

The fuel pump is "low-pressure" and when the gas line pressure reaches 3-4 psi, the pump cannot overcome the pressure so it stops pumping. When the psi drops, the pump starts pumping again.

 

O.K., Yes, I have changed my name no reason, just that I can. So I have pulled the carbs. Im going back down to the garage now to get some pics of the float bowel. It looks very clean. I also removed the jets, one by one and inspected the tiny holes under a 500w light. I can see light through all the holes. Should I continue with the rest or count my blessings and stop while Im ahead? I still dont know how to post pics with a thread. if I did I would. Ill add them to my gallery here in a bit when I get them shot. Any experienced advice would be great. BTW It does look like a bad carb sync. All ofThe throttle plates are not all showing the first tiny hole of three. some are showing all three and some are showing none.

 

If the parts looks clean, and there is no residue on the bottom of the float bowl, that is a good sign that the carbs are clean.

Check all the jets, float needle tips and seats. Might as well check the float level too. Easy to do with the carbs out and you don't have to separate them.

Then do a bench carb-sync using the method in my post on 2/27.