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fuel system cleaner

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by hurst96vfr, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. hurst96vfr

    hurst96vfr New Member

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    Hello viffer lovers I am wondering what do you guys use to clean out your fuel system , in the mechanics garage I heard one guy say he puts a few ounces of b12 in his tank and I thought that sounded a little odd , I love the lucas fuel cleaner for my automobiles but i'm sure you guys would say no on a bike, so what do you guys use????

    Also I am about to get the clutch replaced , I would like to do it myself but I dont think its gonna happen it looks pretty confusing in my manual , I have done clutches etc... in my old prelude but it only had one clutch plate , so whats the nitty gritty does it just sound and look more complicated than it really is , or should it be left to the high priced pro's at the bike shop , they were trying to get me to let them change my oil in my bike for close to $100 dollars funny huh I did it myself , it was so much easier than a automobile , and they only charge 20.00 dollars at most any shops for a normal oil change , it blows me away how much they charge , true I will give them their credit i'm sure they are good and have special training for bikes but I mean "come on"

    Yes I admit i'm a maintenance junkie but thats not such a bad thing , specially when your dealing with a delicate and beautifull piece of machinery
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2008


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  2. hurst96vfr

    hurst96vfr New Member

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    Also I havent checked with the shop yet on the preice to replace clutch , i am dreading it if they wanted $90-100 to change the oil they would probably charge more than my bikes worth to do the clutch j/k but i'm sure its crazy high
     


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  3. maddog

    maddog New Member

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    I periodically use Chevron "Techron", per recommendations on the container, and change oil after it has been consumed along with a full tank of gas.
     


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  4. Lgn001

    Lgn001 Member

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    Reg71 did a real nice pictorial write-up on changing his clutch plates:

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/modifications/10769-clutch-ebc-vs-barnett-vs.html

    From my perspective, bike clutches are much easier than cars because the parts are smaller and you can get to them. If you handled the Prelude, the VFR should be manageable. Go slow and pay attention to what comes off first, etc.
     


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  5. hurst96vfr

    hurst96vfr New Member

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    thanks for the link to reg71's post

    after reading those i think i could do it without much problem , hell i'll take ome digital pics so i know the way it all looked before i take it apart , and some new springs like yall said , so soak the plates in the normal motor oil???

    u guys are awesome since i have owned my bike i still have not seen any other viffers on the road :( , i guess in pensacola they all want these new bikes , i plan on choppin that fender off 2
     


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  6. Lgn001

    Lgn001 Member

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    Yep, normal motor oil (motorcycle motor oil, that is).
     


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  7. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Best Fuel system cleaners are Sea Foam or the Yamaha product availabe at their dealers.
     


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  8. dale-j

    dale-j New Member

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    Hurst, it looks far more complicated than it really is, if you've done one on your prelude you have more experience than most guys that do it successfully - you'll do fine! Just remember to get a spare clutch cover gasket before you start (don't ask me why I know this) and keep in mind that the motorcycle equivalent to the pressure plate is both the cover/springs and the clutch steels. Doing the prelude, you would have changed the pressure plate and made sure that the flywheel was not warped or glazed, the same holds true for the springs (a lot of people re-use them, I change them every time as they lose power over time just being installed, like the pressure plate) and the steels (these are the equivalent of both the pressure plate face and the flywheel friction face - you need to make sure that they are flat, not warped, burned, scored or glazed and yes, you can deglaze them with some fine sandpaper or just change them, they're not that much).

    The only other tip I can offer is to look at it carefully (a digital camera is good insurance) as you pull it apart, noting the direction that the dished anti-judder diaphragm spring (you'll know it when you see it) is installed in, and also to put a block in your clutch lever to prevent pulling it with the clutch apart, as there is a little ball bearing behind the clutch pushrod that you will never find again if you pop it out by pulling the lever with the clutch off.

    Not many mechanics will take the time and care that you will with your own bike, so don't be afraid to get to know it.

    Also, if you want an upgrade without compromising drivability, I have used Barnett plates and springs (sharper engagement, not quite as smooth but a great hook-up) and also stock plates with upgraded Barnett springs, which gave a very smooth engagement but held better - good compromise if you commute in traffic.

    Cheers!
     


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