My latest 2nd Gen Interceptor - an early '86 round gauge RC26 w/latter '87 Blue fairings (?)

If it is going to be semi-permanent, use a toggle. It's nice to control when the pump might pump, like when you have the fuel system kinda apart and you turn on the key for some stupid reason like to look at your fancy new lights for the 7th time on your 3rd beer.*


*Totally fictional scenario not based on any true events in even the slightest way.

 

Good idea and I remember your previous posts on the subject.

Well.....looks like the decision to stay away from the bad JUJU paid off!

Either that or it was my clean living and a pure heart.

Because I found a replacement! And it works!!! Bike started right up and I can feel the fuel pump purring right along. Yes yes yes!!!

Now onto the plastics. Tail cowl and lower panels!

Stay tuned...stoked!

 

New updates......

I worked on doing the fairing repairs last night so I could sand and do paint today.

Going to try this Rustoleum Gloss White spray paint and see if that works.

Instead of messing with that tail cowl decal......turned out I had another one with no decals that just needed some minor repairs and new paint. Someone had painted OVER the old decal so just going to sand it, re-paint, and add new decals.

I have 3 lower panels. Two OEM right side and one aftermarket left side. Both OEM needed repair work which I did last night. I sanded them and am in the process of re-painting.

The aftermarket panel has a damaged decal so once I have installed it and made sure it will work I will apply a new decal over the old one.

At this point my goal isn't to make this a show bike. I just want to get it together and on the road with as much of the original components and complete as possible.

I'll probably use the OEM panel that is without a decal for the right side....and apply a new decal on it......along with the aftermarket one for the left side.

I also did a cleaning of one of my windscreens. It looks better but needs one more pass.

Stay tuned. Rain in the forecast so playing it by ear.

An older photo here. The panel on the left went on Cold Devil's bike. The one on the right is the aftermarket one I will use on this one:





The two OEM panels. I will be using the one on the right:



The tail cowl and OEM panel after first coat of paint:


Paint I am using and the decals I will apply:

 

Happy to read you’re good at painting. I suck !
Looks good Bazz. Can’t wait see the finished product!


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Thanks Six.....but the jury is still out on my painting!

 

Pretty lucky to find that spray can washed in with a storm!

 

100%!

 

I got about 3 coats on them and they are now dry to the touch. I thought the surface would be slick and shiny - but it's more rough and not shiny.

I figured it would need sanding and then at least one more coat but am wondering if I messed something up here? Maybe I didn't shake the rattle can enough (?)

The pieces look good but those surfaces just aren't shiny and smooth.

I bought some new cans of paint today and will use those going forward.

 

Couple things:

Yes, the can looks old, but probabaly not the issue.

How's the humidity there? Likely not "low". The can likely has temp and humidity recommended ranges.

Also, on those kind of paints, a bunch a light to medium coats won't cut it if you are going for a fairly "slick and shiny" finish. Even if you do some sanding between coats. At a certain point you gotta lay down some product.

I typically do almost a fog for my first coat. Then follow with 1 or 2 light to medium coats to ensure coverage and to practice my pattern and start to see how it reacts to a fairly heavy coat. Then, Like I said, you gotta get some paint on there so it can flow out, but without running or sagging. It's not very far from a perfect final to a run. That's also why the right conditions make a big difference.

Everybody has their technique, but on regular ol spray paint, this works for me.

This fender is run of the mill generic Rustoleum. Best pic I could find at the moment. No sanding, no polishing, no clear coat.

 

That fender looks great Cap


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It's almost a perfect match for Fighting Red. I was very surprised.

 

Thanks, Capt......I feel a little better now. I can certainly lay some more paint down. Like you said though - I'm wary of the run monster getting me!

Very humid here so that's probably not helping.

If I could spray inside I know it'd be better but I really can't.

I do have some clear coat and wondered if that would help, but seems like (as in your fender) if conditions are right the paint alone should do it.

Will keep trying. I bought 2 twin packs today so certainly do have the ammo!

=========

I also swung by my storage unit today and picked up a different seat - a really nice one - also in blue.

Thanks again for all your help!

 

Take a small piece of plastic, like maybe a rashed up turn signal housing, and practice. Do just a tiny bit of sanding prep and figure out what your paint and conditions like.

If you place the housing face down, you have a nice "top" and some sides to practice on controlling runs. On larger pieces it's figuring out how far apart your passes need to be. Be sure to keep spraying normally all the way thru the part, don't hesitate, stop or change directions until you are spraying into the air past the surface.

It doesn't have to be perfect, but if you get this kinda down, you'll have a 10! At 10ft or 10mph, it will look great.

 

Thanks - good advice!

 

10 at 10..my stuff is usually 40 100. I miss doing moto projects. My CRX is fun, but I really want to dig into my RC45 wanna be, sorry tribute..

Keep it up Bazza!

 

My friend has a 1997 VFR750F and he is going to do a Tyga RC30 tribute with it. He is probably going to drop about $6K just in parts.



https://www.tyga-performance.com/tyga-rydas/tyga-rydas-rc30-tribute-builds/

 

Fuck I love the look of that bike!
6 large is reasonable


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Reading some guidelines that recommend waiting 3-7 days after re-painting before applying any graphics, to allow all gasses to escape from the painted surface.

Then after applying the graphics...allow another 3 days before applying any clear coating, to allow adhesives to fully cure.

So this is what I will follow.

I sanded and re-painted the cowl and fairing today before trying another application and am also doing some test work on another fairing.

Stay tuned for further updates as I continue traveling across my learning curve.....

 

How much were those lowers graphics?

 

I got them here:

https://bdesigns.ca/80s_Honda.htm

Prices listed are Canadian so you have to convert to US dollars.

$102.90/pair Canadian for either RC24 or RC26, plus S&H.

I think I got some of just the lowers by themselves and a few of the total packages.