Baz's latest acquisition: '87 VFR700F - White & non-running and in fair condition, 48K miles

Picked her up on Tuesday from S. Florida. 450 mile round trip. Was on FBMP. Seller said it hasn't been run much since having the carbs rebuilt. Fuzzy on exact timeline but from the photos I thought it was worth picking up and doing whatever was needed. Came with key and clean Florida title.

Little did I know the fuel cap was stuck on. And later on discovered after getting her back home, and after finally getting the cap off the tank - it had been re-lined/coated inside and the product used was cracking and flaking off.

Got the tank off this morning and will empty it later today - clean her out - and see what we have. Dang tank otherwise is about perfect as you can get!

Yesterday I removed the front brakes and clutch slave. New masters are on and I'm still working on the calipers. next will be pulling the carbs.

Can't get the calipers pistons to budge so will look at my spares and see what I can use, until such time as I can get to my mechanic's where he has a larger air compressor.

I removed all the fairings too except for the upper. The lowers aren't too bad - left side missing a piece near the bottom. Battery covers are both missing their tongue and one peg each. Tail fairing missing all tabs except for one plus has two hairline cracks...but at least it's still in one piece!

It also has the 17" CBR rear wheel mod. Date code is on tire 2011, so it's been a while. Front tire is even older I think. Both are holding air though.

No tool kit and no owner's manual.

Came with a Sargent period correct seat in very good condition. Overall bike is in OK condition. Hoping to get her running by next week.

 

Now for the ugly part.......

 

And the pretty part.......

 

Well... poop

FUCKING KREEM!!!!!!

 

This tank looks almost perfect top to bottom.

Do you think someone elected to coat the inside after gas was left in it for too long - and left behind some corrosion? Odd situation.....

 

It was likely rusty and somebody "KREEM"ed it. Even if the prep was done correctly (which I bet this wasn't), KREEM does not last forever, especially with the current fuels. When it failed, the fuel (and associated moisture) got behind it.

I have a CA305 Dream tank that was done by a previous owner and is FUCKED and now sits on a shelf. It didn't rust again, but the KREEM started coming off in sheets and chunks. The chemicals and processes needed to remove it would destroy the paint. An original paint job that could not be reproduced on just one body piece.

 

Quick update.....

Dumped out the water yesterday morning and filled the tank with about 4 gallons of Evaporust. Then this morning turned the tank upside down. This batch of ER has already seen a couple cycles so may not do what's needed.

In the meantime still working on the brakes and clutch.

Regardless of how the tank ends up - I can still do the carbs and run her off a fuel bottle initially just to see what I have.

Guess I should change the oil and filter, even though the oil on the dipstick still looks OK.

 

Dumped out all the Evaporust tonight and washed out the inside with my electric power washer. The ER was brown and dirty looking so must have done it's job.

The water is coming out nice and clear now so now I've moved into more optimism regarding being able to use this tank.

Ended up refilling with water for now before figuring out my next move.

At this point, if I've been able to get most of the "loose" coating out (still have a little left to remove by hand), I really don't feel it makes sense to try to do anything more than just try to use it as is.

Maybe I will fill to the top with fuel and leave it sitting on my bench for a few days. Then open the petcock and fill up a clear container to see how it looks.

In the meantime I can continue doing the other stuff.




Clear water coming out the top:

 

That shit is gonna break up and clog your filter. It won't be in your driveway.

The filter catches everything... except for what it doesn't. Does that make sense? It shouldn't. But it will happen and carbs will be full of shit.

Proceed as you see fit.

EDIT: Negative Nancy has reviewed her post. While accurate, it was delivered like a turd in a punch bowl.

I apologize. Keep on keepin' on dude.

 

No apology necessary but thanks anyway, Capt.

I'm in unfamiliar territory so ALL input is welcome and appreciated.

I thought a reasonable approach would be to "bench test" her first, as I mentioned.... before trying to actually use it. Not sure how it will turn out but don't see any harm in trying, other than my time, labor, and 5 gallons of fuel.

One positive is in looking inside by naked eye looked like the pickup screening was all clear of any coating.

Also, I found a couple brand new aftermarket brake lines in my stash - maybe an inch longer than stock - so I can go ahead with the brakes tomorrow, time permitting.

 

I wouldn't run that tank, as is, into any rebuilt carbs.

THAT is time and labor. Which is money.

Keep rinsing and consider introducing some controlled "debris" to help dislodge. Like a verified number of nuts. Not shaking so hard to damage the pickup screen, but rolling/sloshing to help release. Do not use stainless... You want to be able to use magnets as necessary.

Good luck!

 

Thought it would be a good idea to turn the engine over by hand while I have the front opened up and can remove the front 2 spark plugs. Took the back 2 out also and am going to pour a small amount of MM Oil in there first.

Trying to remove the left engine cover - bolts are out - cover not budging - what's the secret to getting her off? Light tapping on the sides with rubber mallet? Doesn't seem like I can get anything in there to pry it off.

Thanks for any tips!

 

EDIT - never mind - got her off with a few hard raps on top with my rubber mallet......

 

Cuz that's how you do it. Sometimes a rap with a real hammer using a wood block interface gives it the shock it needs. But I always start with the rubber mallet.

 

It's not the first time I had to do this but has been so long I couldn't remember. When it popped off I said to myself "Ah yes....now I remember, grasshopper!"

The good news is all 4 plugs came out, I got some MMO inside, and the engine turned over smooth as silk!

Damn I'm STOKED!

These plugs don't really look too bad either. Clean up and re-use?

 

Went with new plugs. Had them in my spares box so why not use them? Duh!

Got everything buttoned back up and then went back to the front brakes, installing the new lines and then bleeding. Of course I couldn't get a solid pressure so will have to go back to it again after a break. Doesn't help that the front wheel is in a chock so I can't turn the handlebars to either side to get the master at an ideal angle. Both holes are covered at the bottom but I have to watch the level like a hawk. No biggie - just makes things more trickier. I may wait until I get the bike off the trailer to finish the bleeding. It's just that having that front brake helps when backing her down the ramp.

Next up is to finish the clutch and then onto the carbs.

I also decided to get back to my '84 VF750 which I suspect has a fuel pump issue. I've acquired a couple working used fuel pumps since, so it's time to get that baby going. I think that's the only thing needed on that bike.

 

I hear ya Mello- patience is important.

I've learned the best thing to do when something isn't working out is to walk away and give it a rest - especially before you do something stupid and make matters worse. And I speak from experience there!

To be honest - I'm still a rank amateur learning how to do stuff on these bikes. Grateful for all who offer help with my dumb questions.

Back to this project - was able to get the carbs off tonight just before dark. Everything went perfect. Mostly things look in decent shape so should be a routine carb clean and rebuild. I will replace the fuel tube o-rings and all the other stuff.

I did notice a few abnormalities but not worth mentioning at this time.

I also removed the fuel filter and lines on either side. Stinky stale gas smell...yuk!

 

Good Saturday afternoon all,

Well after disassembling the carbs last night, and seeing quite a few issues that will require more time and energy to correct, I made the decision to use the set I had already rebuilt that was going to go back on the Blue bike that's currently on my lift.

I have new OEM insulators to use and will re-use the clamps that came off the bike.

4 of them (right side below) have longer screws and spacers and 4 (left side below) have shorter screws with no spacers. The FSM shows the first versions installed on the carb side, so wouldn't that mean the others go on the engine side?

Further, when tightened down on an insulator (not installed) the first version tighten down snugly but the others are still able to slide a bit. I guess once they are installed the diameter of the insulator increases and the clamps will snug down.

Not the first time I've done this job but noticing things differently now.

Thanks!

 

Either shorten those collars or remove them. I remove them. But I also can feel when a clamp is tight and not over-do it.

Remove them. That's a lot of work to go thru and not have them properly tighten. I have documented this before many times, but those clamps stretch somehow. Yes, really.