WaveyDavey Enters the World of VF500F

Some bikes the idle adjuster isn't very accessible, like the 500. It sucks actually. I don't set my bikes up to where I have to jockey on the adjuster. But some bikes, like the RC36, it is very easy to fast idle after dialing out the "choke" if you want to.

Cheers.

 

I would prefer not to have to bump it at all. My friend's VF500 that I went through I am able to get it to a "set and forget" idle setting. Not that I think it should affect idle much, but I'm not working with stock mains and needles nor exhaust on mine whereas his is all stock. I've just never wanted to commit to trying to fully resolve that minor issue because it truly has become a very minor issue for me.

I'm with you that Wavey is likely going to want to pull that carburetor out and service it if he's got that amount of sluggishness and wants to get rid of it. I just wanted to shoot out a couple simple, quick things to try prior to that. I have no sluggish areas through my full rev range.

 

Unfortunately, he has already done that. Twice I think. So the desire to try and "tune it out" and/or hope it gets better is high. Something is being missed tho.

Good luck WD!

 

Where have you been Squirrelman? Happy New Year!

 

All good I listen to everyone since I am pretty new to the bike, and detail with the carbs. I am going to put the gauges on it next as a diagnostic. That should give me a pretty good idea of how my bench balance is shouldn't it? It could be an air leak when it warms up to some extent? I would think that it the issue would be much worse if it was. I really don't think the carbs are far off, but there is something not quite there. The weather is going to turn to crap again here in the high desert so I will have time to consider pulling them off again. I wish I had more experience with the set up of the vacuum gauges on the bike, the shop manual is pretty bland. Any pointers from you guys would be helpful or ...if this may be the wrong approach. Also... If I intend to keep chasing performance should I be looking at appropriate jetting? Here is a qualifier. I am not going to be blazing any twisties, though I know how, I am very senior and the reflexes don't permit me to risk like I once did. So maybe what I have is pretty good?!! Aging is bullshit!

Again many thanks and gratitude to all,

Kind Regards ,
WD.

 

I don't believe this is a synch issue.

And you don't have to be "blazing any twisties" to desire/require good runability. It's actually a safety stand point too as far not being a hazard in traffic and from stops.

I truly believe there is either something in the carbs still blocked, there is something broken / cracked that is not being noticed, or something is assembled incorrectly. I am leaning heavily on the blocked side, as I know the state these carbs began in.

I would be yanking carbs in your situation with a fresh outlook, carefully considering and investigating possible culprits. Good luck.

 

Have you replaced the carb intake boots?

 

Yes they are new. They are the $99 variety from Ebay. They seem quite squishy this may require OEM replacement if there is such a thing, I have not looked for them at partzilla yet. Remember I have already replaced the soft and stretchy clamps with badass Normas. Those will go back on. Carbs are off the bike have gone through 1 and 2 so far and adjusted the bench balance much more carefully. It was not hedious but not perfect. It is now perfect. Found this in one and two : Carb 1: existing float measurement was found to be 7.3 mm ( Shop Manual Spec) Carb 2: float was 10.2mm adjusted to 7.3mm. Jets = 95 and 35. I forgot to look at 1 jets, will remove the bowl and copy that down. Removed the float valve seats and filter screens. Removed the jets, and blew air through all of the passages. Carb 1 float valve screen had a view granuals of crud, carb 2 was perfect. I will have more later. The inside carbs as you know suck to get at the float pivot pin. Waaahh! I think the hardest part of this job is getting the fucking throttle cables unhooked, then rehooked!

Okay lemme havit if I am missing something. Too bad the couldn't jamb a Holley Double End loader underneath the tank, I have one sitting right here!

WaveDave

 

easiest to connect cables before installation, held upsidedown above the engine.

 

Next to the Main and Slow Jets, there is a "starter" jet. It can be called many different things, but it is the press-fit tube next to them. Theoretically they are removable... DO NOT TRY. But you have to make sure they are clear. You need something small enough to poke thru. People may say, "you never poke thru jets!" I am not one of those people, but I am also not a hack that would damage a jet. Many times you can take an old cable, un-strand it, you use one wire for this task. They make very good jet cleaners, as they are a little wavey, davey, and they can clean against the walls. They are great for slow jets too.

You absolutely have to remove the pilot screws and verify that passage is clean. After removing the screw, spring, washer and oring, you should be able to spray carb cleaner thru and have it come out in the intake bore in a fairly defined stream. Watch out!... this is where you spray yourself in the face, or something else you don't want carb cleaner on. This is when I step out the side door and do it next to the fence.

And then spray carb cleaner thru every orifice confirming it came out somewhere.

These are the biggest culprits that are responsible for your symptoms in my opinion, assuming everything else is in working order.

Make sure vents are vented and vacuum ports are plugged.

And good luck.

 

This Sucks! Two cut intake insulators!! Pretty much hosed these insulators, they are from CMS via Ebay. I don't think that they were complete destroy until I remove the carbs? They are bullshit now though. Argh! I suspect that that given these unsulators are so soft that I would have had issues from them shortly if it was not part of the issue now? I did not have the carbs placed sqarely on the intakes apparently either. It is hard to believe that with as little room that there is inside the frame and cylinders that I could have gotten the bank cocked?

 

Holy shit. Were perhaps the worm drive clamps a little too "clampy"?

Well... that is an intake leak (that gets worse when hot likely) and will definitely give you some symptoms you describe. Properly seating the carbs is something that surprises some people too.

Ugh... sorry dude. But at least you found something. A few things actually.

 

Everette PowerSports Ebay 99.96 fucking ouch!

 

Too clampy for sure! I generally like clampy, but perhaps I applied the same screw force that it tanks to get shitty clamps to work?

 

They were genuine Honda then?

By the way, I work about 7 minutes away from Everett Powersports.

 

I have jet cleaners, they are Wavey. I caught my daughter cleaning her vape device with one! I will not use that one!

 

I just ordered four, thank God for PayPal credit the little woman would shoot me!. The ones I bought from Ebay last time were also sold by Everette Power Sports. They are marked CMS MF2.

 

What I ordered:

 

That is... not what I was expecting. Wow.

**Edit--the last set of insulators I bought were from Everett in 2021. Granted, they were 84/5 versions. I can't believe how ooey gooey yours look.

 

Hah!

Only cuz I live in Western Washington, but... it's "Everett", not "Everette".