RVF400 in the off-season

So as fun as it was to fit a new body kit to the little RVF, the bike does need real attention and service. My mystery leak is coming from the rear master cylinder. Fluid was accumulating in the belly pan from this as well. Purchased a bunch of seals to redo the coolant system, rebuild forks, and perform a general clean. My dog is upset because his garage bed makes a great bodywork rest.

 

2.5 hours down and I am nearly ready to start with the central cross over tube gaskets.

 

You can (want to) do it with the carbs in?

EDIT: Just read "nearly ready"

 

^^ Well the dumbass in me forgot that I used my one set of insulators on the VFR400 I sold. So I missed the boat on purchasing those. But when I wrapped up this evenings session (too friggin cold in the garage at 57*), I realized for the first time since I joined this merry band of bad asses, I don't need to hurry.

I used to hurry because I was trying to make money, buy and sell. F that. I am over it. I am down to 6 bikes (from 13). One of which is no longer mine (Hawk). One is a major project (gathering parts and info) and the rest run great.

The RVF gets priority because I will be tackling USD forks for the first time and my 250project parts won't be in until March/April. RC36 goes last. My past experience tells me to wait on fork parts until taken apart. Bushings could be bad, etc.

Figured out why the handling wasn't up to snuff as well on the RVF. Preload was set out of this world (front and rear), both fork seals were blown, and the rear tire is over sized. Should be a 150 and after reading about the Babyblade on here and talking with my ex-race engineer. The light went off for both of us. Which now gives me an excuse to paint the rims.

So, my workload has tripled on this little bike, but I don't give two Fs because I am on longer in a hurry. ST sold last week partially. 50% down payment. Next payment on the 7th (coworker).

So long story short, time to watch football and do some moto work! Go Wash and Buff for the Sup bowl.

Oh and if you go Grey Market bikes, go WeB!ke Japan. Really good prices (exchange rate) and super fast shipping compared to CMSNL. About the same on ship costs.

https://japan.webike.net/?gad_sourc...wiSPDh7oatti8Vz_b53as66rbDakpA3xoCk2IQAvD_BwE

Night yall!

exhaust candy:

 

Heated up the insulators and bam, off come the carbs. Insulators feel newish so that is good. Now, who the F orients a clamp like this?

 

Someone without long screwdrivers.

 

Different little set up for me.Use a 5mm fastener to remove needle assembly.



.5mm washer present.
Carbs seem like they were recently serviced. All o-rings so far have been round and lubed. No cuts
Diaphragms are in great condition.
Need new diaphragm fasteners. The Philips heads are on the way out.
So far so good.

 

Lol.
Can’t thank my son enough for the RVF service manual. Still great even in Japanese.

 

Not sure if I noted clamp angles in a manual before.

 

Well, bummer. Jetting is off according to Tyga dyno work. Should be 112 fronts and 115 rears with race exhaust and standard air box. I have 118 in three positions and a 116. Insulators are flexible but don’t look OE. On the fence about a new set.
One of the clamps was also missing a locking nut.

 

Picked these up from Japan same time as the service manual. Stoked no need to send stuff to paint right now.

 

Ok, jetting sort of solved. Apparently they don't make a 116, so it is just another 118. Inexperience showing...
I am basically running rich, but I am not sure I want to down size to get MAX PERF according to other bikes in another part of the world. She does stumble at 7k but if I am really riding fast, I won't be hovering below 8-9k. Higher at Seca most likely, to keep her wound up.
Cleaned up my thermo housing and waterpump outer housing. I think I will go with Capts method of filling in the corroded parts of the tube connection with JB weld I believe.
I was going to shoot some clear afterward, but should I put the clear on first and then JB?




Also my throttle tube seems too short or do they normally have 5mm of over hang on the end?

 

I absolutely would fill and sand, that's pretty bad. Wire wheel back down to alum before applying. You can smooth after applying with a gloved hand so you're not sanding forever. Don't be afraid to take the time to apply again if you have some low spots still. You're going thru the trouble, so make it worth it.

Also, do a "Where Used" on that thermo cap and see if there are US models that use the same part. Unlikely, but you never know.

If 112F / 115R is Tyga tested, maybe try 115F / 118R. I would buy four 115 so I had the ability to go all 115 if I wanted to.

And how do you know YOU are running rich? What do the plugs look like? You are fairly close to sea level, yes? More dense, oxygen rich air than a lot of other places, like hot and humid Thailand.

 

Some grips are designed to go over that ridge. I will often eliminate it so I can snug any grip up to the housing at the gap I want. My 92 VFR I forgot to and I just decided to trim the end of the grip as needed. The Pro-Grip has a safety wire groove not quite as inboard as your grip that was easy to trim to. The grips are pretty short now, but since I'm not running bar end mirrors on that bike it doesn't necessarily cramp my elbows up, hand grip style.

 

Thanks for the info dude!

 

Also consider removing the limiting collars between the tangs on the clamps. At the very least, verify when you go to install the first ones next to the head they still properly tighten. You can also grind them a little shorter, but I just remove them.

I know this sounds weird, but the clamps somehow stretch/grow/change over time. I've seen it DOZENS of times. On my ST1100 I had to switch to VF750F clamps, as the originals could be spun with my finger after tightening to the point the tangs were bottomed against each other.

 

Sounds like a good plan. I feel like a have a grasp on proper tightness without using the collars. Going to pull plugs today and see what they look like. That will determine the jetting for me. I just don't like the idea of running max out on the lean side for a few more ounces of HP.

 

Okey so there was an excessive amount of oil in the engine. Honestly I think the oil was done before, but either way I am going to lose a bit when pulling the side cover. Why you ask…
I can’t remove the timing cover. I heated the case, PB blast, cut a flat into the cover once the 17mm head rolled in the socket while using an impact driver. It will not budge. I did buy a new one, but I will take it to work and have my machinest look at it.

 

Since it is to be replaced, take a chisel and a hammer towards the edge and start at steep angle. As it drives in, start vectoring lefty-loosey. Has never failed me and pops loose faster than you think. Out at the edge you have way more leverage than a flat blade in the center.

 

Ooo, I will remount to hold the cover and try that out.

water pump looks good after a sonic bath. Came out nicely.