1986 VFR Restoreof Japanes import

I'm being a little harsh, it will look really good when everything is all mounted and complete.

Good luck.

 

Nah man, All good

 

Have you checked your stator ?
https://vfrworld.com/threads/how-to-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.39277/

I replaced my original regulator with a Shindengen SH775, I got it used from a polaris ATV. Shindengen FH020AA is a common unit on recent bikes. These FH010/FH012/FH020 series units are mofset based, they do a much better job maintaining a stable voltage supply than the older shunt types.
This guy in the US has a lot of info about replacing motorcycle regulators: http://roadstercycle.com/

Note1: these newer regulators are physically larger and may not fit the original location without fabricating some kind of adapter plate. I had to cut a notch into the inner fender to fit my new regulator.
Note2 most of the cheap units online are sold as "direct replacement" but not as the same technology. The cheap ones are current shunt types, which can dump a lot of heat into the stator wiring.

 

Thanks mate. Yip my mate who is clever in these things checked stator. And the recifier was climbing and getting verybhot sonpretty sure thats it. Bike was running kickass with a fully charged batter. Recifier was always on the list

 

In case it's of interest, TD.......one of mine....an '86 VFR700F. Jury remains out on the red rims, although after a while, they do tend to grow on you.... Missing the "Geardriven cams V4" decal but that will be resolved at some point.

 

The original Reg/Rec is an SCR based shunt type. The MOSFET ones are still a shunt type just they generate less heat in the reg/rec itself when regulating. As heat is death for electrics the SCR ones die (this is why people recommend fans etc on them) and because they run cooler the MOSFET ones last longer before they die.

It's not that the MOSFET ones regulate better, they're still a shunt type! Both the SCR and MOSFET ones regulate by "shunting", this is basically short circuiting the windings which generates heat in them and over time will fry them.

What you really want is the newer (SCR based again) "series" Reg/Recs, rather than shunt across the stator they "open" the windings, this dramatically reduces the heat produced in the stator and so lowers the chances of frying them.

Downsides to the series types...most have low RPM limits and stop regulating entirely if you go over those limits! You *HAVE* to ensure you're taking one off a bike that will rev as high as the VFR!

 

There's a set on Ebay for all the stickers, if you're interested.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/405210721497

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

 

TX Bazza, Yeah looks amazing. I have since got the painter to cover the gear driven cams with red, Will add a sticker onve complete and i have the parts

 

Appreciated Druid!
I gotta wait for what i ordered to arrive, and will then straightwire from the stator to the RR
Hopefully the one i'm getting is good quality mosfet
however, will be keeping an eye out from here on in for more RR on marketplace that i can have as spare

 

Yeah, If only... Well, it is what it is now, I have left Gear driven cams off (to be replaced by sticker)

Will possibly get a few more stickers made as this looks kinda nice IMO,, but for now just awaitign my RR, and then in 2 weeks the actual parts

 

If you need somebody to purchase the correct sticker and ship it to you, reach out.

Won't be cheap, but won't be terribly wrong either.

https://honda-decals.com/default.tp...N+quantity+price+locality&--waGROUP1datarq=v4

Upper should be able to be re-scuffed, graphics applied, and clearcoated if wanted. The correct decals are fairly delicate.

 

Apprecited budd...but for now i just want to get her together...been a complete shitshow getting stuff from overseas

Awaiting rectifier, plastics and then hopefully on the road

 

Also have a mate who can print out the decals for me, so i can make the design, but might ask ya to give me a measurement or two again

 

Of course. Just say the word.

Also, I didn't mean right now about applying / clearing the graphics. I meant at some point in the future. Get that fucker together.

If you decide not to clear, I recommend doing a solid "V4". I would probably "order" 2 sets for yourself and see how the first set survives things like washings.

Can't wait to see it together!

 

Ok, Rectifier arrived (another sorry story i would rather forget)
This thing is rather large but got it hooked up , had to file a few fins to fit
Fired bike up and im getting a apretty constant 14.4 , ran the whole shebang for around 10 min (lights on , revving) and the rec did not get warm, If fact
i would say the stator wires were warmer (soldered direct onto the rectifierplugs).
BTW this is still just a testfit

 

So , A problem that has surfce a few times whilst running thebike (both cold and warm) is she will run beautifully, Idling etc and revving, then all of a sudden stone dead.
Happened today, was getting bike up to temp, thought to test rectifier output at Higher revs , i revved to 6k , and she just died (i suspect electrical with the instantness of it).
Could not start her again and ran the battery flat, not a pop or anything.
Charged battery, and she fired right up.
I have just redone the earth/negative cale grounding to the frame
Whats next , Kill switch?

If you search these symptoms they seem to crop up accross the various years, so basically looking to do a process of elimination

Harness looks un-hacked, although today i was running with headlight turned off, I tested the flickers, and the headlight came on with the flickers for a split second?

 

That is the biggest R/R I have ever seen. Jesus.

 

I've had a kind of similar issue with an RVF400. Just died.

Long and short it was the main frame earth. I took it off, cleaned up both sides (with some emery paper) and re-assembled with copperslip (for anti-corrosion reasons, not for any extra connectivity reasons).

I can't off the top of my head remember how many earths the RC24 has to the frame but I'd go through them all, clean them and make sure they're making good contact.

 

Thanks druid.
Been busy cleaning them,one by the radiator and one onto the frame just behind engine