1986 VFR Restoreof Japanes import

Amazing!

 

The parts can go in a bag and into the "VFR parts" box.

 

Yeah, it's a small box tho, amazing bike(he says having never ridden it)

Getting new bake piston from honda... A few weeks
Wiring is next. Then I need to await the parts that have gone for spraying. Asked him to do the black bits and white wheels first...mso I can get it on its feet and exhaust and carbs done, then test fire

 

Yes. This is to account for both manufacturing tolerances as well as thermal expansion. It's the same for every bike.

Essentially you (firmly) locate the bearing on one side of the swing arm and leave the other side to "float" so it can move from side to side as the frame/swingarm expands/contracts with the heat (plus as previously mentioned also the difference in manufacturing, one might be 0.5mm wider than another...or even 2mm!). This is also why it's a needle roller that side. Of course it is still "retained" by the bearing so it can only turn round the swingarm axis.

 

Ok. Forks apart. Taken off the anti dive.

A little unclear if i should be drilling the additional holes as specified in the above link with standard springs? I assume thus is with new valve and spring job.

I have enquired locally as to price of new springs as well as a complete setup for my weight.. im reckoning around 350-400$ based on my chat with them

 

Additional holes are for use with the emulators as you're removing the damping from the damper rods and moving it to the emulators.

I can't emphasise enough how much of a difference they make, literally night and day. I would 100% recommend them (and stiffer springs and heavier oil).

If you are *not* fitting emulators however, do *NOT* add extra holes (although you may still want to consider thicker/heavier weight oil).

 

Tx druid. I'm waiting on some prices from the locals. Might go with springs and oil for now and then grab some emulators later. Forks might need hardchroming as well,the pitting is still out of the fork travel length, but im here now kinda thing....

 

OK, turns out we have some local stockists of the Racetech springs and emulators, Its quite a chunk of change in rands, so will need to think about it (350 odd dollars), I'm thinking for now ...Springs or emulators?
I think im going to go with emulators and 12 weight oil?
Springs can come at a later stage if nessesary, the bike won't be doing much in the way of hard work, and i might need to rechrome the stanchions as there is some pitting (not on the fork travel path as near as i can tell), so woudl replace springs then
about to pull the trigger, so thoughts appreciated

 

If it is a "or", then springs. Stock forks that are in good working order, with good bushings, proper oil height AND the correct springs can be pretty decent. The biggest downfall of that front end in 1986 was the TERRIBLY under spec'd springs.

Yes, they will still be damper rod forks. If the magazine testers in 86 would have sampled the bike with the correct springs and oil height, with the TRAC disabled they would have shit themselves even more.

Save your money and then buy a real shock and emulators when you can afford it and do them at the same time to absolutely transform the bike. The stock shock isn't really great either.

My $.02

p.s. If you went with emulators you would likely use a 15, per their initial tuning instructions. At least to start with.

 

Ok. So going wirh standard forks for now..minus antidive

Been looking at the electrics again and here is what ive come up with... there is a difference in the wire colors as compared to the drawings?

Black and yellow as opposed to drawings yellow white

Someone was in there before me but the speed limiter was stil connected... you thoughts? Ditch it and just bridge the wire as per photo

 

And a preview from the painter

 

Ick.

Rather bodgy and not the way I'd have done it but looks like someone has already bypassed the speed limiter. So just ditch the speed limiter. I'm not entirely sure how the RC24 behaves but the NC for example if it has been disconnected then it will only run on two cylinders! So if it runs fine it'll be fine!

WRT Colours though, I'm afraid the original wiring diagram is a black and white one in Japanese with just writing denoting the colours. It's entirely possible that whoever translated/created the diagram messed it up slightly (or just marked the diagram incorrectly).

 

白 I think is white
黄 I think is yellow
黒 I think is black.
赤 I think is red
青 I think is blue


So... I think whoever marked this up got it wrong.


That 3P mini connector therefore appears to me to be (left to right).
Red/Blue? (doesn't look like the symbol for blue to me but its very unclear)
Black/Yellow
Black/White

 

Yeah, Im thinking , by way for the wires being crimped already , that its had the speed mod done, so im going to put it back together as above without speed limiter ,and see how she peforms

Thanks for the research mate!

 

So, decals seem to be short on the ground, even the Ebay guys dont want to ship here to South Africa (our post office is another story), However the painter is an old pro, recons he can do the colors correct, he just needs the honda winfg as a decal. I have it as a vector , but i was hoping somebody with the RWB interceptor color scheme could possinbly measure their logo for me? height/length , height of lettering, so ican look at getting it printed?

 

Somr updates. Got the rums back...so new shoes. I buggered the reflector up in that the po had taken the light apart... i managed to seperate the lens and housing, in order to clean an reattach ....thinking the reflector was proper chrome i used thinners only to have the chrome come off in my cloth. Sprayed it as chrome as possible... but on the lookout for another headlight...

Got the rims on so time to change oil and fit zorsts. Still waiting for the fairings and subframe stuff... a few weeks at least ,so thinking of wiring it up as is and firing her up? And pitfalls?

 

Looking good! To answer your question - sure, why not?