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1984 Honda vfr750 interceptor $2,500 - just listed on FB MP - Daytona

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Bazza, Feb 24, 2024.

  1. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Good afternoon and Happy Friday everyone!

    Well as promised, I'm back on this troubleshoot.

    I gave everything a good look over in more detail - really there isn't any corrosion that I can see and all connections seem to be secure.

    I hooked power from the positive battery post directly to the starter cable on the relay (thus bypassing the relay) and still just a click.

    Remember, I did jump from my truck battery and nothing changed so I've eliminated the battery as the problem for now.

    I thought a logical next step would be to verify the engine will turn over before doing anything else.

    I could try to push the bike while it's in gear but not sure if I could do that by myself. Right now it's resting on it's center stand and in neutral.

    Should I remove the left engine cover and try turning the engine with a socket that way - clockwise right? If so do I really need to take the plugs out first?

    Hotter than Hades out so trying to do as little work as possible for now so don't judge me trying to take any short cuts. I value all input here and am willing to do what makes the most sense.

    Thanks!

    IMG_6371.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2024


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  2. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    11 pages herre and u never confirmed that the engine will turn over with the aid of a socket on the crank end ? jeeze, if i got hold of a non-running 500, thats the first thing id check.

    removing plugs is helpful.........if the engine has any compression.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2024


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  3. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Well the problem I'm having right now only started one page back.

    Also it's a VF750F...not the 500 I just bought....which has it's own thread. I know it's hard to keep track with so many dang bikes!

    So, I can just pop that side cover off and turn the engine with a socket, right? Plugs out would be ideal - but I'm only seeing if it will move - so plugs don't really need to be out for just that, right?
     


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  4. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    not really necessary to remove. if the plugs are in you can hear and feel each cylinder compression.
     


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  5. Totaled TL

    Totaled TL New Member

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    Carry on & report findings please.
     


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  6. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    OK just went out and removed the six 8mm bolts that hold the side cover on. Side cover not budging. What's the best way to get it off? Maybe some paint is holding it on around the edges (?) Take a knife and run it around the edge first? Then what - flat screwdriver carefully tapped at the seam? Thanks!
     


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  7. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    I use a rubber mallet … of course don’t b at the crap out of it …


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     


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  8. Totaled TL

    Totaled TL New Member

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    Strike it w/ rubber mallet. Best not to pry if you can avoid it so no damage to gskt. surfaces.
     


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  9. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    OK thanks guys - I have one of those. I just don't want to mar it up....right now it's so perfect looking....:)

    Will do in the AM. Freaking humidity right now is like a wet blanket!
     


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  10. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Good morning!

    Great news! Couple whacks with my mallet and she popped right off. You guys are amazing!

    Even better......17mm socket and she turned just fine. I did a couple revolutions and didn't detect any issues, so onto the starter itself as the possible culprit....and maybe the cable or connection - will know when I get there.

    Only wish the bike was up on my lift table.

    And it's already 81 degrees out with 91% humidity. :(

    This is where having a shop fan blowing on you comes into play.........

    More later.....thank you again.....you guys rock! :)
     


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  11. Totaled TL

    Totaled TL New Member

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    Great news. Maybe it's just a faulty starter.
     


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  12. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Did a short video of me turning the crank over this morning.........

     


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  13. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Also got her back on my lift table ready to work on that starter.

    IMG_6381.JPG


    Thinking the radiator has to be unbolted. Do I go in from the oil filter side? Would have to take the oil filter off first looks like.

    IMG_6383.JPG

    IMG_6385.JPG


    The sending unit that controls the cooling fans? How do I remove it? Will check with the SM.......
    IMG_6387.JPG
     


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  14. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Guess I should also do a continuity check on the starter cable BEFORE removing the starter.....just to make sure the cable isn't the problem......
     


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  15. Totaled TL

    Totaled TL New Member

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    If you pull back the rubber boot there's no hex flats on the sensor?
     


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  16. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    I didn't want to start pulling on anything until I knew how to go about it. This bike is like a museum piece to me and as much as I won't hesitate to tear into something.....my worst nightmare is to muck something up due to over aggression!

    If you are saying to pull the rubber boot back to get at a fitting.......then I'm game......
     


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  17. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    museum piece ??

    is there a non-stock plastic cable cover protector over wires going to the fan switch ? :Gossip:
     


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  18. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Lookin' at those switch wires riding on the exposed metal edge of that wire tie gives me the heebs.
     


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  19. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Not really sure what would be non-stock but seems like everything "looks" factory to me....especially in an overall assessment of the entire bike....


    Saw that too but doesn't appear to be a problem because there's no tension on that cable at all.

    That said....when I get more into it I will see if there's anything needed to avoid any issues with the routing of stuff.

    =========

    I did get the boot off for the temp sensor. The boot has a split on top of it - not sure if I did it or it was there. In any event.....now I know how that thing attaches. The two wires go through the base of the boot and have bullet connectors inside that slip onto 2 prongs coming out of the sensor.

    Will provide pics tomorrow when I get back on the project.

    You'd think these service manuals would furnish a photo of this.

    Also, being rubber, that boot has probably neared it's shelf life anyway so could be replaced if I can source one.....that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

    Thanks again, everyone.....
     


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  20. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Good Sunday morning and Happy Father's Day to all.......

    Making progress.

    Drained coolant, removed lower radiator, drained oil, and removed oil filter so I could get to that top bolt on the starter. Oil looked dark enough I'm glad she'll be getting some fresh dino!

    Two bolts holding the starter in. I removed both but before pulling I removed the power cable and attached it to the new starter to see if it ran. It did....which told me I found the culprit!

    Pulled the starter and re-attached the power cable - and it DID NOT run...which confirmed where the problem was.

    Next step is to install the new starter and here's where I'm having a problem. I can't get the starter seated all the way in! I smeared some red rubber grease around the part that seats, which includes an o-ring. Even tried tapping it in with piece of wood and hammer. Nada.

    I don't want to break anything so decided to take a break. So far things are going OK.

    Some pics.....

    IMG_6402.JPG IMG_6415.JPG IMG_6421.JPG
     


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