Thermo Sensor, Honda

Basically the standard Honda thermo sensor mounted to the radiator grounds the fan to turn on correct?
In order to wire in a switch you need to have the fan wire go to one end of the switch and the other wire go to the chassis correct?
I only replicated what was on Big Red (88 VFR750), but I didn't give any attention to why or how worked, just clean new wires.

My son's Hawk may have a bad sensor. We grounded the wire that was connected to the fan and the fan rotated, but the bike is still getting hot enough to push fluid out the over flow.
Now that I think about it, I wonder if he tubed up the high pressure straight to the ground and not into the tank.
Either way it may be time for a thermostat and/or sensor switch.

I just wanted to make sure we wire the fan correctly.

 

If the thermoswitch is one wire, to ground will kick a working fan on. If it is a two wire, connect them to power fan.

I did some testing on my Hawk that I installed a custom over flow tank on to check capacity. Let it run and the moment the fan kicked on (which was quite high on the temp gauge) is when it overflowed the tank and pissed on the ground.

I now had my perfect fluid level in the tank and installed a switch to turn the fan on sooner.

 

Hawk is single wire, so we will find a nice ground location and install. I could swear I put a new thermostat, but that was in the midst of our moto world going crazy on expansion.

Thanks for the info!

 

Thermostat and Thermoswitch are not the same thing.

 

If you're looking for some clean options for a switch, I have done it a couple ways.

On my 6g I installed a microswitch inside the left switchgear. It is kind of a fiddly little project, but it turns out clean and it is almost unnoticeable and can be easily operated with gloves on.



There is also a company, Bike Sports Developments in the UK, that makes custom billet switches. They did this one for me for me for the manual fan switch on the RVF and they laser etched it custom so that the word fan is right side up with the switch installed upside down.









It is made to mount to a clutch perch. Works good, even with gloves on.

 

Microsw. looks easily broken off; has it lasted?

 

Sorry for the confusion Capt. Yes I understand they are separate items, I was just irritated with my data collection on the Hawk build.
We soldered up a cheap Autozone automotive switch until we can get something better in there.
I like your custom switch NCB.
Capt sent me data on his switch gear, which is great but I would have to go down to Ventura for the nearest store.
Maybe in the fall for our surf trip.
I will submit a photo tonight. It looks a little hokey, but he did the work himself and is learning basic electronics at the same time.

 

Last I saw, it was fine. I used it for a few years and then it was sold to a member here and it was still functioning the last time I saw the machine. I don't typically make it a habit to recommend things that are questionable from a quality or performance standpoint. At least I try not to do that.

 

Do you need a relay to install a fan switch or do you just run one wire from the new switch to a ground and splice the other wire from the switch into the the existing single wire going to the thermoswitch?

 

It always seems that the bike needs to get surprisingly hot before the fan kicks in. I've had a few in the past I've been getting quite worried about and then it kicks in.

While I'm not aufait with the Hawk, the usual Honda radiator system is designed to push fluid out when it gets hot into the tank and then suck it back when it gets cold... If its not routed to a tank but instead to the ground then it will be losing coolant long before the fan comes on!

There shouldn't be any way that fluid escapes the _original_ system (of course different if you have a custom smaller tank with an overflow).

 

Double checked the hose routing and we are good. He has been running the switch and the Hawk has been staying cool. All is good. Still need photo. Life is so busy right now. sheesh.

 

If the coolant is getting puked out of the reservoir overflow, either the reservoir was overfilled cold, or the radiator cap is not holding pressure and steam is boiling out of the engine and burping the reservoir.