1984 Honda vfr750 interceptor $2,500 - just listed on FB MP - Daytona

BTW....I put my old Sears analog battery charger on the old battery and got it up to 95% charged. Now have a modern trickle charger on it.

I'll take it with me tomorrow to my storage unit because the other RC15's battery (the first one I bought) has a crap Walmart battery in it and it's very low - almost dead.

 

This worked well for me. I would think it would apply to the 750 also.

"Leave the carb rubbers attached to the engine intake manifolds, loosen all the top clamp screws so the carbs can slide right in. Loosen the rear cylinder bottom clamps as well, and prop them pointing straight up, so they are only half attached to the intake port. Push the carbs in on the front cylinders, then just tip the carbs back and they should line up with the rear carb boots. Push them right in! If the rubbers are still overlapping the carbs slightly, stick a screwdriver between them and pry it out to make room for the carbs. Push everything back into place and tighten up the clamps, making sure they are in place and haven't creeped down.
The typical method of leaving both carb rubbers in place mean that when you go to push the second set in, it just folds over the carb rubbers. This method makes it so that there is no or very little overlap between the rubbers and the carbs, and they can be pushed right in."

 

Thanks - that's how I did it last time and still need a LOT of extra work to get them seated. Probably would have gone better if I had bought new insulators, which I certainly would this time.

 

I tried the rubber renewing method but couldn't tell much difference. I bought new insulators so I'm sure that made it easier.

 

Turns out the battery I thought was OK and charged didn't do squat when I put it in my other RC15 so I'm back to charging the Walmart one to use until the Motobatt I just ordered arrives.....

This is for the first RC15 I bought which is over at my storage unit.

 

Here's the tool kit that came with the '84.......



I don't understand what this item is......anyone here have an idea?



Or this one?

 

Even though this bike didn't come with it's fuel tank...........it did come with the filler cap so the keys will all match up!

The seat lock is off from the rear cowl being painted.

 

Took my cordless leaf blower over to my new 20x20 storage unit and got it ready for moving day which will either be tomorrow or Wed......

 

Got it running again. Suffice to say I will proceed to do a carb service just to get it over with...will be a good investment for future performance aspects....even though I know it will be a PITA to reinstall.....

Will also do a brake caliper service while I have it on the table. It's not rolling very easily so I'm sure it needs it.

Sta tuned......

 

There ya go

 

I just ordered the parts I will need so shouldn't be too long - maybe another week.

Here's today's run video......had to keep the fuel valve almost closed to keep the carbs from flooding......

 

Differences between Taiwan and Japan insulators....other than $52.92?

Here's an eBay seller offering both for example ($22.95 vs. $75.87).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3624888354...26C8JE&hash=item546604ad82:g:bZgAAOSw7mpbM8o9

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3622079128...9JCEQV&hash=item5455462398:g:DcEAAOSw2fNcok-s

Looking at the item descriptions:

4 Brand new carb holders (1 BID = SET OF 4 Holders) They work with the original clamps OEM QUALITY

and

4 Brand new K&L carb holders (1 BID = SET OF 4 Holders)
OEM QUALITY Made in JAPAN, designed to meet 15 year change interval

I asked the seller for his opinion and his reply:

"The clearance is so close between the head and carburetor on these bikes I would use either"

 

Well that doesn't help at all.

 

I'm still so new to this repair stuff....I'm just taking it all in from whatever resources/sources I can.

At the same time.......as I do the work I add in my own perspectives. I think that's how we all do it.

The eBay seller to his credit offered to send the Taiwan units and credit me the difference if I wanted, without any inference from my end. I declined and will be getting the Japan made units. In the grand scheme of things and at this point what's another $50?

I also appreciate that he answered me with some logic - the distance comment...

FYI: I also asked the question to another reputable source and will share his thoughts when I hear back, in case it's of interest.

 

after warmup, you should be able to dial-back the idle speed screw to about 800rpm and have smooth running. if not, the carbs may need more cleaning and adjustment. a lumpy idle could be various things that need solving.

inspect and clean the plugs u have or fit new ones so you can tune for ideal plug colors across the rpm range, necessary with the exhaust mods.

 

Thanks....I fiddled with the idle adjust knob which helped but writings on the wall so will get her up on my lift table tomorrow and start the process.

Will look at plugs too, thanks for the reminder.

 

on any bike youre inspecting, pulling all the sparkplugs for inspection first thing will reveal many possible running problems or not. its a starting point for tuning carbs.

 

Think I'm a little confused... which bike is this? I thought it sold!

So in the meantime they painted the bodywork white?

 

Correct.

It was sold. The buyer repainted the fairings but the fuel tank he thought was going to fit - didn't. He put it on the bike to line everything up for the next painting step - the color - when he realized he had a problem. Then he just gave up and listed it for sale. I saw the ad and reached out. Now it's here....

 

OK, then. I must have missed those details. My little brain finally put together that it was the same shock and fender eliminator. I know you talked about the paint. What a dork.