Stripped Allen exhaust bolts ? - Asking here because U guys know stuff

Well, im finally getting to the removal of the B12 engine from the bandit donor.

trouble now is the Allen bolts that hold the header in are mostly stripped (not by me) and seized in.

I got 3 out, and there are 5 still in there. what I've tried so far:

-Hammered in a 1/4" Allen key/socket - just strips
-Lots of penetrating oil sprays and heat - gonna keep doing this, but I only have a propane torch not oxy/Ac
-Tried a Torx key socket, 40 too small and 45 too big
-Tried my thread extractors but the Allen hole is too shallow and would need drilling (not going there yet)

whats next:

Ordered a set of bolt extractors (socket style) and a set of stripped Allen extractors

If that fails:

Drill off the Allen heads and remove the header, then once the engine is out take it someplace with a good welder and have them weld nuts on the remaining 5 studs to extract the studs.

What else can I try before I have to resort to drilling off the heads and welding nuts on ?


here is the pic, lots of penetrant on there

 

Fresh small/medium chisel, starting pretty steep and then vectoring off to lefty-loosy. Try to get on the best angle possible given the access.

I have removed lots of stuff I NEVER thought would budge and was about to start doing desperate things that would decreased my chances with each choice.

The sharp "jolts" help break them loose.

The technique obviously works better the larger diameter something is. But maybe try one with the best access as a test.

 

You could also cut the headers off as flush as possible and perhaps then get on with some fresh Vise-Grips now that you have a good angle of attack.

 

I would say an impact driver. The whack a mole theory does work. Just need the right tool, but if it is stripped you could cut a groove for a flat blade driver and try again. This is not my specialty. Sorry Stray.

 

An impact driver holding what? The allens are already f'd.

 

Cheers !, ill try a chisel see what I can do.

they're in there real hard, access isn't great and id like to save the headers.

May have to drill the heads off the bolts if the extractor set I bought doesnt work

but yea, preferable trying things casing the least carnage first, don't want to limit my options by making bad choices

 

Grind a slot in the end of the bolts and use a big screwdriver or impact driver.

 

And if you make the slot big enough for your biggest flat blade, you can put a wrench on the shaft (like a Craftsman style). Apply pressure and turn with the wrench. Done that a few times too.

 

I like the cut slot and the hand impact. Lots of penetrant. Kroil if you got it. See if you can use a metal brush and scratch off as much loose rust as you can.

Couple hits then lube, then walk away. Repeat

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

 

I've had luck using a sharp center punch. Make divot, then angle the punch to turn bolt CCW & wail w/ hammer. After judicious use of penetrant oil & heat.

 

HEAT first then SOAK then TAP then TURN or whatever. a chizel should work, and the first quarter-turn is the toughest part. good idea to have a beer ready, its one of those jobs.

any brass bolts available for there ?

 

Welding nuts on the heads is the best option. The rest is just an exercise in frustration. A hammer is a tool used in carpentry.

 

Yeah, fools.

 

I am with Rouge and Tom: groove and impact. As mentioned elsewhere I am a convinced impact driver fan. Use the right hammer, not a Carpenters toy, 3 lbs or thereabouts.

 

Ha ha, good one. Not really.

 

When I'm staking a clutch nut or driving bearings out with a drift, I use the back of my big torque wrench.

 

Hadn't thought of that. Good alternative to a carpentry hammer.

 

I also use my Snap On torque driver as a hammer....

 

we got 4 of the problem 5 out ok. Welded bolts to the studs (no room to get nuts on)

the 5th one snapped off so once the engine is out ill take it back and we can weld a washer and nut on and try again. s napped off With 2mm showing above the head.

On the bolts we welded on, we had to weld along the thread as well to stop the bolt twisting, the studs were seized in really bad. Not pretty but it worked (mostly). very hard to get the mig in there

 

Wow. Glad you (mostly) got it, those were STUCK alright.