Latest acquisition....original owner 1983 VF750F - Euro version

And not to play Mr. Master of the Obvious...but have you tried to push it in with a vise? Once you break it free (in, out, or rotate), it should be much more interested in coming out.

 

Then they weren't really THAT crappy. Seriously. I bet the crap we work on sits in a marsh for at least 10 years longer than what you have been exposed to.

I do this kind of work A LOT cuz I'm stupid. There have been MANY instances where its not gonna move in-out/rotate. Not a fuckin chance.

Baz can soak and blow for days. Or just hook it back up to hydraulics and be done with it.

If you don't want to try and save the piston, you can be done REAL quickly.

 

Good afternoon. OK here's the latest.....

Tried using my rear brake line this morning but it wasn't happening, so took it over to my mechanic and he got them both out...using his air compressor (~160 PSI).

"both" you ask? Yes...."both".....because I decided to go ahead and remove the rear caliper this morning while I was at it, and it too had a piston that wasn't budging for me.

So it's back to the salt mine for me.....

Other updates.....after a dentist visit and exam my dentist says I need a root canal on the very back bottom left tooth. Said the nerve was dying and it created a slight infection and that's what was causing the pain. So now I'm taking some Amoxicillin which will address the pain and then in 3 weeks we'll do the root canal.

I also went by my storage unit and started/ran 4 of my 8 bikes, and they all started and ran good. Hopefully I can go back next week and get them ALL out for a spin. The ones I did today are the '86 White RC26, the '87 Blue RC26, the '90 RC36, and the Chinese Hawk 250.

The sound of the Kerker on the Blue bike is exceptional!

PS - my mechanic said my caliper seals look just fine and could be reused. He commented they are the originals that came with the bike and are better quality than what you'd get in an aftermarket kit, so now I have that to chew on.....

 

Good news! Glad air worked. Glad SOMETHING worked. Awesome.

My particular Master I use must be a good ratio.

I re-use seals a lot. I clean them with lacquer thinner and inspect them closely. The dust seals usually are the ones that can't be re-used. And sometimes the main seals will swell when they emerge from their cave after that many years, so look for that.

Remove them ALL and clean the seal grooves. Something is up if your hydraulics couldn't press them out, but look that "good". Are these Master Cylinders the cheap ones you bought by any chance?

Be sure to verify in the Service Manual regarding orientation of the main seals. Often in that era they are actually manufactured asymmetrical to aid in the "retraction" of the piston when releasing the brake lever and have to be installed correctly or they can drag.

 

OK thanks, Capt. - good stuff!

My rear master is the OEM, not after market. I already planned to remove and double check it, based on this morning's "performance". Fluid was coming out of the end of the brake line when I pumped the pedal....but obviously not as strong as it should be, so something's up.

I read somewhere that Simple Green also does a good job at restoring rubber parts. Interesting.....

I have a Dremel with a small fiber brush wheel I will use on the seal grooves. Should work good....

 

Could be the brake line interior is breaking down or the line is spongy.

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Safety (sorry for using such a word ) is one of several good reasons to use fluid of some kind (or grease) to convince stubborn pistons to come out.
On the topic of stubborn philips screws, the single tool that has saved my day most times is - beyond any competition - my manual impact driver with good quality bits.

 

Happy Friday my brothers!

Quick mid-day/lunch break update.....

Got the rebuilt rear caliper IN......and it WORKS UNREAL!

WOOT!

In the process, I learned a LOT about technique and efficiency for this job.

Next up are the 2 fronts.

Oh and I ended up using the brand new seals that came in the kit. The older ones had enlarged a bit so didn't think they'd still work as good.

Capt...no particular profile angle on these seals....but I DO know what you we're talking about.

I even lightly sanded the face of the pads to clean up any gunk. They're really nice now. Also wiped down the rotors real good and they are very clean.

THANKS guy for ALL the help!

Stoked!

 

That is a good Friday.

 

Finished!

Fronts went pretty good. Did the assembly line thing since I had TWO of them and had the routine down.

Couple small mistakes that were easily rectified. I used the left bolt on the right caliper - and it was too long - so had to swap it - no biggie but I learned something.

Then I didn't tighten the brake line bolt down tight enough on the right side so bleeding took a lot longer than it should have.

I'm going to try and get a package of crush washers for these brake line bolts, so I'll have plenty on hand.

I also plan to spray paint my 10mm spanner red......so it's easier to spot.

Engine starts and runs fine. Wheels all turn freely. Brakes and clutch all working. I think she's ready for a shakedown cruise!

Rain in the forecast so we'll play by ear.

I feel so good now knowing what's involved in a brake caliper rebuild. Once you do it you realize it's not a big deal.

Most important part seems to be making sure everything is clean as a whistle before reassembly.

Then using proper lubricant and proper parts.

Hope everyone is having a good Friday!...cheers!

 

Looking at crush washers........these look pretty good. $10.95 for 10 washers.

What do you guys think? I've purchase parts from this seller before and they worked great!

10 Pack - Copper Crush Sealing Banjo Bolt Washers 10mm M10 Brake Fastener Gasket

10 Pack of copper 10mm / 3/8" crush washers. This washer is used on most Japanese motorcycles with disc brakes, it can be used on any of the banjo bolts on the brake lines as long as they are 10mm bolts. For use on front and rear brake master cylinders. Two washers are needed for every banjo bolt, one goes between the bolt head and the metal brake hose fitting and one goes between the hose fitting and the master cylinder. Torque the bolt down to spec so that it creates a seal, then proceed to bleed the brakes.


These washers have a very universal fitment, so check the dimensions against what you currently have to make sure they'll work.

Inner diameter: 10.1mm
Outer Diameter: 15mm
Thickness: 1.4mm

Replaces Honda Part Number: 90545-300-000

 

I'm sure they are fine, but you can get a pack of 50 aluminum crush washers for the same money and a US seller on eBay.

 

So....no upside to getting the copper over aluminum?

 

Unless I've been missing something over the last 3 decades of rebuilding brakes and not having puddles of brake fluid on my shop floor, not that I know of.

Well... only when I forget to do the final torque after initial assembly.

 

LOL....OK thanks!

 

Well folks.....the RC15 is FINALLY back on the road!

This was the first time I'd ridden her since the purchase last Thanksgiving....woohoo!

Just did an around the block thing because I still have to get her registered (legal) but rode her enough to do an evaluation and so far so good. Brakes and clutch work perfectly and engine sounds really good. I didn't take her past 3rd gear but that will come after I get her legal ,do an oil and filter change, and maybe coolant too.

I'm stoked!!!

 

JON WOO HOO !!!

Good job my man.

Your front tire is still backwards.

 

Thanks and appreciate all your help, my brother!

 

Outstanding!!!!


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More good news.......I went to the tag office today and got her registered through June 25! Got a vintage tag and the title should arrive in the mail.

Normally this wouldn't be a big deal but remember this bike didn't come with a title!

Documents had to be filled out by me, the seller, and also had to have a representative from sheriff to do a VIN verification.

I got all that done for this bike and the other one that came from Kenny Kaplan - the White RC26 I posted a pic of in the other thread.

And stay tuned because I have yet another RC26 on the way - also from out of state - so will need to get a VIN verification for it too....but I do have a title for it so it won't be as big a deal to get registered.

My root canal is scheduled for the morning so will be glad to get that over with!