Restoring a YELLOW '87 VFR700F2H

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Bazza, Nov 25, 2023.

  1. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    It should have IMMEDIATELY started bubbling.

    I make a cork stopper for the fill hole and suspend a bent piece of steel rod thru it. Down, and back into the tank, but not touching. Add a vent hole in the cork cap. I make my main hole a bit off the side to make sure I have room for the vent hole.

    Positive to the steel rod, negative somewhere that has exposed steel on the tank. Typically near the rear mount.

    It immediately bubbles like a school science project.

    Check and clean off the anode every now and then. And like I said, change out the solution. It's cheap to make.
     


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  2. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    That sounds a lot easier than the way I'm doing it.

    Thanks......gonna work on it today.......
     


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  3. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    And for some reason, my best results have been charger > battery > anode. I don't know why, maybe I'm imagining it.
     


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  4. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    I read that is the method to use when you have a Smart charger. Mine is analog so should be OK, but good to know.....
     


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  5. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Lot of info online. Like this one........

    electrolysis.gif
     


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  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    You might be surprised how fast the anode degrades after periodically cleaning it off. I would go with something thicker than a coat hanger.
     


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  7. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    A piece of rebar would be good. That isn't coated. I'll have to look around.....
     


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  8. Captain 80s

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    I knew not to try and use just a smart charger.
     


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  9. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Maybe stick a piece of plastic on the bottom of the anode so it can rest on the bottom of the tank.......
     


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  10. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    I know I was just repeating what I read...:)
     


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  11. Captain 80s

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    Not a bad insurance policy I suppose.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2024


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  12. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    OK - I like this method better. No sign of bubbles yet. My rebar probably has too much rust on it. I'll work on it more tomorrow and start off with a fresh piece of metal.

    I also need to work on a better positive attachment method.

    I had it attached to the lip first and then screwed in one of the fasteners and moved it to that.

    IMG_3535.JPG IMG_3536.JPG IMG_3537.JPG
     


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  13. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    oops....just realized I have the polarity wrong........

    I just swapped them so we'll see........
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2024


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  14. Captain 80s

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    Scrape off some paint around the rear tank mount and attach the ground there. That way it is def not in contact with the solution.
     


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  15. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Guess I was trying not to do that to save some of the re-painting work but it makes more sense to do it so I will - thanks, Capt!
     


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  16. Captain 80s

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    Repainting? It will be under the rubber mount and under the seat. Just throw on some touch up paint of any color.
     


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  17. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    I watched a video the other day about this. I need to do it to my Yamaha proj. He used a spray can lid with a hole for the anode and 1 for venting.
     


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  18. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    I think I discovered my problem. The charger I was using must be a 'smart' charger in disguise......

    IMG_3533.JPG


    So I hooked up an old Sears charger that belonged to my grandfather and blam......instant results!

    All kinds of bubbling, sparks when I attach the clamps :), and have already gone through quite a few sacrificial anodes. Right now I'm just using some vegetable can sections I cut out with my tin snips.

    Will post more pics tomorrow but stoked to finally get things going......
     


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  19. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    could the system be powered by a car battery ?
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2024


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  20. Bazza

    Bazza Member

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    Yes.
     


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