Restoring a BLUE '87 VFR700F2H

Was running & rideable when I bought it 4 years ago.

32K mileage.....dented up fuel tank, most fairings there, lot of scratches, but all in all a runner worth restoration.

I haven't been able to do much for her since purchasing but am now trying to move forward with a few things.

I sent the carbs out and have them back & ready to go back in and am now cleaning the fuel tank.

I dumped out the old fuel, flushed out the tank with water, emptied, and refilled with vinegar. The old fuel was non-ethanol from earlier this year and the inside of the tank doesn't look too bad but I am trying to do what I can to make sure she's clean with my newly rebuilt carbs.

First question.....after I dump out the vinegar, then a rinse with distilled water and baking soda, what would be your next step? I was going to pour in a mixture of a pint or two of fresh fuel with a couple ounces of mower oil to coat the inside to mitigate flash rusting.

I expect to have the carbs back in and tank back on in a day or two.

What do you guys think?

Thanks...here's the bike the day I brought her home......

 

I meant to add......I also removed the fuel tank sending unit to help drain out the tank and have the sending unit also soaking in vinegar. I also removed the petcock, checked & cleaned it, and reinstalled.

 

I have the same exact bike. Welcome!

I filled the tank with evaporust and added roofing nails for grit. Then I flipped it over and shook it every hour for four hours. Then drained, filled with gas, put on a new fuel filter, and ran it until it was out of gas. Then I switched the fuel filter again.

I also put transmission fluid down the cylinders from the carb ports to mitigate any rust in there. When you start it again, the exhaust will be thick, but it will clear up in about 5 minutes.

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OK thanks. What were the circumstances that prompted you to do all of that work?

 

Also, that's an aftermarket tail fairing that combines three of the OEM fairing pieces. I prefer that one and am looking to get one, but I wanted to let you know so that you understand why the color isn't an exact match and it's missing some of the original gray.

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It sat for 15 years with the carbs off. My father gave it to me after that.

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Yes thanks - I know all of that. This is my 3rd bike (same year and model) since getting my first one in the late 90's.

 

Ohhh... Sorry, didn't mean to over-explain

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OK gotcha. My situation is different - it was running most of this year, although not always as smoothly as I liked. I just decided to get the carbs cleaned and rebuilt as a start to my restoration.

 

No worries.....you have a good eye and not everyone knows these things!

 

Fair enough. I'm sure they'll bench-sync the carbs, but you should get them synced while on the bike. I can sell you the sync I have for cheap if you want. I'll figure out shipping with the cost.

Thanks, I appreciate that. I was just looking at those fairing pieces a couple days ago. I liked the original paint scheme, so I'm trying to find a good way to do it with new colors altogether.

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I think that your tank cleaning method is sound. All depends on how rusted it was to begin with, and how well it cleans up. May want to borrow or buy a remote camera attachment for your phone to snake into the tank and give it the best examination. 2-stroke oil sloshed around to prevent rust is a necessary step if it's not coated otherwise. While the tank and carbs are off, are you considering pulling the covers off and checking the valve lash?

 

Thanks, Mark.....the tank wasn't bad but good idea about the endoscope. I have one here. Will not be pulling the covers. Bike ran pretty good before fuel related issues and I have many other things more of a priority. But thanks for the suggestion!

Yesterday I cleaned up the area where the carbs sit so ready to re-install. Tank is still full of the vinegar. I'm planning to get this part done by Wednesday. Then other stuff.

Will update as appropriate.

 

Got everything back on today except the tank and will do that in the morning. She started up and ran just fine! I used an overhead fuel bottle. New paddock stands arrived today just in time for me to lift the rear so I could service the chain. Did that while she was up on the lift table.

BTW....this HF lift table is incredible.

Rainy weather this week so not sure when I will be able to take her for a test ride but happy to have gotten this work done before moving on to the next bike.

I have a Ninja to work on and also another Interceptor and of course this bike will need some more work - lot of it cosmetics - but some also mechanical.

I checked the oil and it looked very clean and was up to the top dipstick mark so that's a good thing.

 

What's the deal with these batteries that have too small of an opening to get the nut in? I have the smaller rectangular battery nuts and they are still too wide. Going to grind them down on the sides until they are narrow enough but man what a PITA for something so freaking basic!

BTW, I got everything back together until this battery issue - which I kinda knew about but was ignoring - until now when it's an issue....sheesh....

 

What janky-ass brand of batteries are you buying?

 

I'm not at liberty to say......

But while we are on the subject.......for this bike, what would be the best battery to get, in your not so humble opinion?

 

I wouldn't say if I were you either.

I've been putting MotoBatt in everything that needs a new one and I couldn't be happier so far. Probably on 4 or 5 years since my first replacement and the same battery has zero issues. With the amount of bikes I have, they can sit waiting for their turn even in the Summer. They go on a tender rotaton over the Winter.

The BikeMaster gel (blue casing) were good. But you have to replace them before 5 years. They will perform like new and one day (at a fucking gas station far from home), right on schedule, will decide "Current shall not pass!". Seriously. Don't know about their Gel-2 version.

I have an Interstate Battery warehouse not far from me and will still buy one sometimes when there are deals or I stroll the closeout / bargain isle. For the big guns like YTX12/14/16 they are strong, reliable, sealed wet batteries in my experience. My ST1100 loves it.

 

OK thanks - looks good to me....especially the way the terminal is designed! Looks like for my bike it's the MB12U model.

https://www.motobatt.us/MB12U-Motobatt-12V-Battery

 

It's now closed but for many years we had a family run auto-electric shop in town that I used on a regular basis for my Interstate batteries and rebuilding alternators, starter motors, and generators. They were fantastic. Old school you know.....

I ordered the MotoBat and it is scheduled for delivery tomorrow - thanks for the helpful info, Captain!

I drove over to Deland today to look at a Honda Express for sale but elected not to purchase. It was an 1980 and overall not in bad shape but the starter mechanism wasn't working as it came from the factory (the windup thingy) so I walked.

Later in the day I bought a really nice vintage Cannondale road bike. The seller who lives a couple blocks away bought it new from their factory in Connecticut many years ago. Now they are made in China. I already have some nice road bikes including a full carbon but wanted this Cannondale because of it's very well kept condition and it's heritage.