New parts for the CB-1

I'll verify when I get home, but it's technically a Chrysler Metallic Grey, and it's been my favorite go-to when I want that treatment. It's also a pretty much exact match for Honda Starlight Metallic (???). Again, I'll verify both this evening.

 

Cheers Capn'

 

What a bike, excellent attention to detail. Did you paint the engine case? If so please share the process/colors used.

 

Thank you. The engine cases cleaned up and the left and right crankcase covers were new OEM. But I have painted engines.




Nothing really special or hard, just tedious as fuck. Just like any paint job, it's all in the prep, masking and steps. Duplicolor engine paint for the cases, Duplicolor Lacquer and Clear for the covers. Very resilient. You could easily use the color Lacquer on the cases, no prob. Pick your color.

 

Cap… damm you do nice work


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Thanks for the message. Nice score on the covers. Thanks for the Duplicolor suggestion. I've been using VHT Pearl Black for 5th gen valve and clutch covers. Good match for original clutch cover color. I'll look at Duplicolor Alum Engine Enamel and Cast Coat Alum for 5th Gen engine case.

 

Not so much as a "score" as a nice employee discount. I built that bike over 20 years ago.

I saw that Duplicolor is offering a 1K clear and picked some up. It should be a nice durable, more chemical resistant clear without having to "activate" a 2K can and have to make sure you have enough parts lined up to finish the can. I've been using their Wheel Clear in Matte and Gloss with excellent results on a variety of applications.

 

Some extra dampening rods drilled for the YSS versions of Cartridge Emulators.



Take them to work tomorrow to deburr the new holes inside and out.

Gonna mate with some '96 CBR600F3 springs I had from a parts bike. .72 vs .51 (stock). Should be a decent upgrade for this light bike and save some dough at the same time. I've got some adjustable pre-load caps for the forks too... mostly bling. Rarely am I "dialing in" preload. But it is nice, as I have adjusted both the 92 and 95 VFR after upgrades.

And in the rear...



Mostly to dial in some rear ride height, the stock shock on this bike doesn't seem overwhelmed. And add a little bling factor when you start looking closer. All the stock components will get packaged away.

 

The mesh work is amazing! The Honda gods are smiling with great joy... lol

 

That'll be nice. I put emulators in my CB-1 and they...sucked. Thermosman fixed them and now the forks are superb...even though it is old tech. I don't recall details, but I think the he used them backward from their intended design. And he did not use the "hole" advice.

You likely know a lot more about all of this than I do.

 

I have them in the RC26, VF500F race bike, VF1000R, VF1000F and the Hawk GT. They work pretty fucking good and a helluva better than stock damping rods. And they are done here, by me, to be able to spend money on other shit. They have quite a few tuning variables, so you can muck em up or dial them in just the same as screwing with cartridge fork adjustments.

The "hole" advice (if you are referring to drilling the rods) is to ensure you have sufficient oil flow to the unit so they can do their job. Then you can change the number ports in the unit (this is likely what you are referring to), preload on the shim stack and weight of oil. Rebound is controlled by the oil weight, so a change in that can require a change to the unit for your desired compression damping.

 

I'm sure that you're right. Mine sucked. Like you, he has a ton of knowledge and undid the instructions and made them work really well.

My notes from initial install: "Installed emulators 40 lb w/blue springs 4.0 turns in."

From Mike: "I removed the PVC spacer because it took up too much air spring, a metal one went in its place. 20 weight fork oil set at 130mm, the emulator was set at 4 turns, two 6mm shims, .10 x 14 and .10 x 12 were placed on top of the low speed hole at the top of the Emulator to help govern the low speed damping. The holes you drilled did not have to be re-welded due to the fact that the bottom out cone covered them up, about 1 mm of the opening was above the bottom out cone was posed no problem. The small hole at the top of the damper rod was welded closed."

Whatever any of that is worth. They're superb for ancient forks.

 

Really appreciate you forwarding those notes. More knowledge / information is always welcome.

 

Did a little re-arranging in case Thanksgiving spills down into the shop. There is usually at least a tour and some lookie-loos. 20+ people.... What have we done?

2 weirdo late 80s Hondas staring each other down (on a light wide angle)...

 

Nice!
Love that Red CB1


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The Hawk GT is post Mod, pre Resto. But is definitely presentable as is. Why I've been riding it the last 2 summers, not tearing it completely apart.

 

Oh it’s a bad ass as well… just awesome pair


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Wow... this no linkage suspension could be the easiest rear shock removal I have ever done. With the shock bolts out, let the swingarm down a bit and the shocks slides right out the rear.



Straight shot...



Stock shock is 315, the YSS is a 320 with ample +/- to go down to stock 315 if wanted. I want extra ride height. Swingarm to subframe measured at 2 good vertical reference points, stock shock (315) is 32.8 cm. YSS @ 320 is 34.3, only a 1.5cm increase (~.6 in). YSS @ 325 is 36.1, a 3.3cm increase (~1.3 in).

With it this easy, I am going to keep everything "loose" until I get the front suspension done and see what the whole system feels / looks like. Then I can finalize the length / ride height, set sag and button everything back up. It is pictured above with some 94 F2 forks and VFR wheel so it can be a roller and off the lift while I do the forks.

 

Sweet and easy. It isn't the the remote reservoir. lol

What spring rate did you go with? The Race-Tech site is WAY off on advice (I worked through the whole range of resistance w/Thermosman to end up where I started), likely due to the direct bolt in design. Sag setting measurements, for me, are unorthodox.

Unsolicited place to start and where I have mine (I'm a light weight):

Rear spring 912#
Rear shock length 325mm.
Rider sag 32mm, bike sag 5mm.

Forks .900 kg
20 weight oil
Air space 135mm if using emulators, 130mm if not.
Fork height is stock setting now (46mm). I used to run the front end lower, ~46mm.
Bike sag 31mm-34mm
Rider sag 24mm-27mm

It is pretty great to ride. It does have clip ons and rear sets, despite being set up for sport touring duty. I prefer to ride the front and the bike is biased that way.

What's your gearing? I'm changing mine as soon I get less lazy and put a new chain on.

Enjoying the pics and writeups.