Honda VFR 750 RC24 '86 doesn't start after carburetors overhaul

Total agreement with rc24 ..


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Ok my mistake, by "kill switch off" I interpreted as "make sure the kill switch isn't open".
So what you suggested is:

1. Kill switch set on OFF
2. No choke
3. like sixdog said, full throttle and keep pressing start button for about 10 secs in order to remove excess fumes and fuel
4. kill switch set on ON
5. normal start procedure

Did I catch it right this time?

After venting the engine, in point #5 of this list above, do I need to use choke?

The fuel is a month old, so I don't think that could be the problem. Furthermore, from Wednesday until few hours ago the bike cold started with max 3 attempts, every single time I tried.
Something has changed today but I just don't know what could it be, the only thing new is that amazon delivered me the vacuum gauge...

Maybe this, assuming one or the four of them are slightly broken they need time to fill them inside and stop working properly (5 days is reasonable).

The start with healthy idle circuit was how the engine started all this days until now, indeed, so I'm convinced that the problem is the fuel overload.
This is what I've done so far:

1. Cleaned spark plugs with compressed air (they were slightly wet, almost dry)
2. Blew hot air with a hair dryer into the spark plugs' housing for almost 2-3 minutes for each
3. Removed tank and air box and filter and blew hot air with full throttle in order to deliver more hot air inside (the same amount of time for each as I blew in the spark plugs)

After this actions, still no life sign.

In your experience, how to deal with an overload fuel problem?

 

in my experience, modern plastic floats never go bad. did you install new float needles from the kit ? did you check the float height settings?

 

Yes, I installed the new one and checked the size (with a caliper, the exact same size).
I just think I may be flooded myself giving some throttle during starting attempts.

Found spark plugs slightly wet, so it might be flooded engine.

Gonna give it some rest, in order to make the fuel evaporates and try again.

Any other way to drain excess fuel faster?

 

if your float levels are not set exactly right, your engine could get flooded whenever you try to start. if you see any wet fuel coming up around the slide needles, its a problem that needs fixing.

 

I do see fuel around the slide needles now that I’m trying to start.
Ok , going to check the floats’ integrity and level

 

oh, my, now this could stretch to 5 more pages but we WILL get him running im sure.

 

LOL I hope not

It should be pretty easy to set the float level: the service manual says it has to be 7mm, and gonna see some more videos to understand better.

So just to be clear: is it bad that fuel comes from the slide needles if I’m starting the bike without throttle?

 

yes, its likely to flood plugs with wet fuel.

 

Squirrel
Is it possible to install the floats “backwards”?


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Just bought the float level gauge, tomorrow will measure the drains and gonna buy transparent tubes too and will set the floats level as shown in this very clear video.

I want to go deep into this

 

The good thing is you are learning about carbs … a lost art.
The guys on this forum are awesome people!


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Can’t help agreeing with you! Thanks to all of you so far

 

What’s the floats backwards anyway?

 

Basically upside down


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Ah got it. I’ll try to answer that myself:
I don't think it's possible because they have a metal tongue where the pin rests, and the final part is oriented upward, preventing the pin from falling. Installing it backwards would have it facing downward.

 

Got it … it’s been a while since I did my vfr carbs..


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Do you guys recommend me to manual crank the engine to make it starts while my engine is flooded (after I set the floats level height)?
I’m recharging my battery so many times and I think all this starting attempts are going to damage it.

 

You can hook up the car battery again to save your bike battery while you are working on it. The car battery will crank it for quite a while, just give everything a rest every now and then.

 

In my experience, setting the float height to 7mm flooded it on a 1986 VFR700.

I ended up at 9, 9, 9, and 8.5mm showing what I thought to be appropriate static wet level heights.

See this thread starting at post #85
https://vfrworld.com/threads/peer-pressure-1986-vfr700.60647/page-5