Newly purchased VFR

Hello all. Just purchased a new to me 99. Bike only has 30,000 miles on the clock. Unfortunately, it sat around in a barn/shed for the past 5 years only to be started every once in a while to keep it going. Bike has some issues. Took it for a pre-purchase test ride, (which was awesome) and the rear brake slowly locked up. Thankfully I was slowing to a stop anyway. Rear brake was hot as hell. The reservoirs have visible gunk in them, as the calipers likely do as well. I have rebuild kits on order for the clutch, front, and rear brake master cylinders and for the clutch slave and brake calipers. Considering the hoses, should a good flush be in order or is buying new hoses a must? Everything appears to be original on the bike. Also want to change the engine oil and do a radiator flush. Forks aren't leaking, but should I replace the seals and fluid? Am I missing anything? Super happy with the bike. Thanks for any advise.

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30,000 miles isn't a lot of service duty for forks. If that were my VFR I would leave the seals and fluid alone unless they started weeping.

 

Just reviving one that had sat for at least 2 years, I'd suggest cleaning and rebuilding all the M/C, reservoirs and calipers. Plus flush the brake lines.
Every one on my 2000 had chocolate pudding looking goop in them and clogged. Especially the hard lines at what I call the junction areas. Clutch slave was totally seized and it required a rebuild also.
I drained the coolant and did a couple heat cycles with just water, then drained that and refilled with 50/50. Water wasn't bad but did have some smeg in it.
Changed oil and filter, rode it for about 800 miles, then changed it again. ( made my mind feel better if nothing else ).
Also look inside the fuel tank for rust and stuff. Possibly be ready to pull the injectors for a test and flow check / rebuild. But if it ran OK, fresh gas and maybe a dab of Seafoam for a tank or 2.

 

Changing the fork oil would not be the worst thing. Then you could also actually set/verify the fork oil level (not qty or capacity), which is usually too low.

 

Go ride a bit and see if you want to upgrade fork springs, etc... then change oil or rebuild or spring decisions can be made.

 

It's a bit early for a radiator flush. Definitely do a passive coolant change out like normal for some new antifreeze and get it on the road. You can always revisit radiator flushing if the bike seems to have trouble cooling.

 

Concerning the master cylinder and caliper rebuild kits, has anyone gone with "brakecrafters"? Seems like a good product, but I have no experience with them.

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Most people don't realize they wanted/needed to change the springs until they ride with actual proper springs and correct fork oil height. "I always thought it felt fine."

If it's stock, it likely needs springs and fork oil level set. According to Race Tech for an intermediate, standard stiffness on the street, the rider would have to weigh less than 100 lbs w/o gear for the stock 1999 VFR springs to be correct.

 

Yup, used them for years from VFR to FZ-1 to FJR1300. etc. Plus free red rubber grease !!

 

And it won't just feel better, it will be MUCH safer.

 

And once there, also attention to the rear suspenders. I put a HyperCoil spring on my rear shock and the forks will get attention later this fall.

 

Received the kits from Brakecrafters, good stuff. Torn into the brake mas cylinders and the clutch mas cylinder, OMG! Needless to say, I'm a little concerned. I want to flush the lines then rebuild the calipers and SMC. Thoughts on how to flush the lines?

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A locking back brake is often a result of the secondary master cylinder on the left fork leg seizing up. The 800 has great brakes but they are not forgiving of a lack of maintenance.

 

Does someone have the link to going through the braking system handy, including the little mech filters/strainers that get clogged? That could help.

 

Maybe crude, but on mine, I just sprayed thru the lines with brake cleaner, then followed with air pressure to dry them.
The clogged bits, I let soak, then ran a small piece of safety wire to open then gunk up and flush out. But the clog was near then end of the lines, maybe 1.5" in at max.
Of course was paranoid the safety wire would break off, but was diligent and took my time.
Will say now, my VFR has excellent brakes front and rear. Stops better than my FZ-1 for sure.

 

Maybe something not as sharp as safety wire? That stuff cuts into things so easily. Could bend the end and twist/file so that it is smooth and still semi rigid.

 

The ST1300 has a mechanically similar setup to the VFR, and owners that clock up big mileage. Here's a link to a useful guide. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/forums/st1300-articles.546/?prefix_id=128 About the only significant difference is the rear calliper has the two outer pistons connected to the front where the VFR only has the centre one.