Fastest way to change the oil filter

Hey all,

I've read from other forum members that oil filter can be changed the fastest by only removing the front inner half cowl (fairing in front of the exhaust headers).

However, with the hex screws & philips screws removed from that cowl, the cowl still doesn't come off from the black trim next to the cowl & the colored side fairing.

How do you remove the inner cowl without removing the side fairing?

For reference, here's an image from the service manual that removes the side fairing afterwards instead of before the inner half cowl. This discrepancy made me question if side fairing simply had to be removed to change the oil filter.

Thank you,

 

You can do a lot by bending the bodywork a bit...but why? Are you limited in how long you have to do oil changes where you live?

 

All I pull is the left fairing.

The process can be made a little quicker too.

This:
https://www.harborfreight.com/4v-co...ith-4-insert-bits-and-wall-charger-64313.html

+

This:
https://www.amazon.com/PAKNMAN-25-Piece-Allen-Wrench-Drill/dp/B093GB998R/

 

I will add this, specific maintenance items are "bigger" than just that. You should take a look around and check for leaks, loose fitting, rubbing hoses/wires, etc. while you can see everything. You wouldn't believe the things that we see at tech inspection on track days...

 

You guys are right. It looks like the left side fairing will simply need to come off.
It indeed doesn't take too long after all.
Nonetheless, thanks for responding so swiftly.

 

Good call. Having an electric driver is definitely a good idea.
Only caveat is being careful not to overtighten since it's harder to feel the resistance compared to hand tightening it.

Definitely. Thanks for the reminder. It'll be good to check for other maintenance inspection items from the service manual while there's easier access with the side fairing off.

 

Those low voltage screwdrivers don't generate that much torque. You'd really have to be not paying attention to break something. If you have a 1/4" impact driver, keep that far away from the bike.

Another tip I didn't invent, fold up a square of some aluminum foil and place it below the filter covering the header pipes and aim it towards the collection pan. That way oil won't coat the header pipes when you remove the filter.

 

This makes oil change quick and clean. Adding new oil is the messy part. Filter change is the same. No washer change or wrench required. Recheck size.
https://www.amazon.com/Stahlbus-Drain-Valve-M14x1-5x12mm-Steel/dp/B01AMXAVX0?th=1
https://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil-drain-valve/

 

I know they have a big following, but from a logic standpoint, I don't understand putting two seals where one seal is and calling it an improvement.

 

Remember all cross head screws on Honda's are JIS and not Philips or Pozi.

Invest in a No1 and No2 JIS screwdrivers, you will have much more success in getting screws out and do far less damage to screw heads.