VF500 Carb Rebuild Kits Resource for parts wanted.

I am assuming that the float valve screen is behind the Nut / Seat with the blue arrow in this picture. I am at work now so don't have access to the manual.
Yup the green stuff was gas, mixed with SeaFoam now. It smells horrible. (Like Acetone)
So I remove all jets, bag them separately for each carb, blow everything out, across the board. Is there a sequence? You can PM this if you want.
I think CMS in the Netherlands sells jet needles? Maybe Randdak in the use?
Orings have been shipped per your recommendation. I have not received them yet.

Also in photograph, note barnacles on all brass parts!? May need to cook those off in some hot water?

 

Get some carb clean in a spray can from the auto parts store. I then spray some in the cap or small container until the jets are submerged and let them soak for a few days. You use the spray cleaner and supplied tube to spray into the orifices. Get a few cans and maybe a can of contact cleaner or brake cleaner too.

Yes the screens are under the float seats.

The brass jet without a slot stays in the carb. Do not try to remove. You'll have to clean with spray carb clean and brushes and spray / blow it out to ensure it's clean. You can use small wire with care to poke thru if it seems clogged.

What are you referring to when you say, "jet needles"?

 

Jet Needles = Brain fart. Sorry.

 

Float Valves?

 

Needle?

 

Why do you think you need needles? It takes a pretty high mileage bike to actually wear them enough to change the taper / shape.

 

It must take a pretty thin walled socket to get at the float seat. I tried one of mine last night and the walls of the socket prohibited the socket from covering the flats. I have another cache of weird tools to probe for something before I resort to an open end.

 

On a side note to you have pictures of any of your bikes posted anywhere?

 

Are you talking about the rubber tipped "needle" that slides onto the float tab?

 

I really don't have a gallery of just my bikes. There might be some if you click on my user name and go to my albums. I started posting most stuff right into my build threads, instead of uploading to my gallery and then linking to there.

 

After inspecting them they cleaned up really well. They had a lot of varnish on them when first dissassembled.

 

Thats the one.

 

I almost never have to replace the float valves. If the little spring loaded button is free and the rubber tip is intact, they can nearly always be cleaned and used.

Clean the brass valve seat with some polish and a q-tip, followed by some carb clean or brake clean. Let the valves soak in some carb clean for a little bit, but don't just leave them. You don't want to damage the rubber tip. Dip a shop rag in some lacquer thinner (or carb clean) and spin the rubber tip between your thump and finger. The rag should be a little black. Move to a clean, still damp, area and repeat a few times. Works for me every time. The only time I've had to replace is when the spring loaded button is frozen with varnish and I couldn't free it up. And then I just cleaned up another used one I had.

Some people will say you need to replace them. I don't. I don't have leaky or over filling carbs or any problems. I'd much rather clean up an original piece then rely on a reproduction that might not be quite right. There are quality ones out there, I just never have had to find them or pay for them.

 

not just by soaking, not by compressed air, this is the only way to be certain idle jets are fully open



making sure fuel enrichment tube is open



if tube is clear you're able to blow air through and to insert a ten-thousandths inch wire to a depth of about thirty mm.

 

Good point SM, maybe I forgot to mention that. If you lack small enpugh wire and you have an old cable, you can unwind one strand. The curl of the wire makes sure you have good contact with the ID. Some people are leary about inserting anything in a jet, but If you're reasonable in your approach you won't be altering or damaging anything.

 

Cool. I can do that. I have a set of calibrated wire gages. And just to confirm carbs are numbered (Sitting On Bike Looking Down) from left to right 1 2 3 4?
Seems silly to ask but I have not as yet seen a clear picture of that.

WD

 

It seems the SM might contradict itself when referring to carb #s. But in the sections where it is important it seems to be correct. It may be wrong when referring to different jet needles on the 1984 model year (irrelevant here).

And I may be steering you wrong on not needing to disassemble some linkage. I have been doing so damn many 86 VFR carbs sets lately, I forget that the linkage and fuel tube configurations are different. Follow the SM and I apologize if I have confused you. I will bust out a set of 86 500 carbs and re-familiarize myself this weekend. I will leave them out for quick reference if needed.

Cheers

 

Damn, Cap. Stop being so friggin' hard on yourself, man. You're doing good things, regardless. This forum is lucky that you are one of the guys hanging out and actually making the effort to assist. I, most certainly, am not.

 

I'm good I appreciate the effort you put into this.

 

So bout to get into to tonights carb exercises. Wanted to ask if there was any reason to remove the needles from the slides? I was able to get them degunked so they are as new again. The diaphrams are looking good on the ones that I have taken out to clean. It looks like the needles on the 86's are all the same #? At least per the SM. Got my Orings today so I guess there is nothing holding me back other than figuring out how to separate, 2 -4. I will be back on with status.

Thanks all.