1992 VFR750F Rescue / Refresh

Little more progress last night.



Installed with all the coolant hoses mounted.



Get to run it pretty soon!!

 

Nice work on the coolant system dude!! Do you have a source for those small coolant hoses? Not the OE, but something I could cut chop and paste to my liking?

O-rings- well that is a bummer. I just figured this list would cover me. lol
Acetic Acid
Ammonia
Ammonium Hydroxide
Animal Oils
Bases
Boric Acid
Butyl Alcohol
Calcium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Ethanol
Ethylene Glycol
Glycerin
Grease
Hydraulic Oils
Isopropyl Alcohol
Methanol
Mineral Oils
Motor Oil
Petroleum Fluids
Phosphoric Acid
Potassium Hydroxide
Sodium Bicarbonate
Vegetable Oils

 

[QUOTE="RogueRC24, post: 640357, member: 39380"O-rings- well that is a bummer. I just figured this list would cover me. lol[/QUOTE]

Buna was developed by the Nazi's, so you should have known better. I'm not sure why that fact always sticks in my head from Annie Jacobsen book I read a few years ago, lol.

 

I just clean, inspect and usually can re-use. I have BINS of various OEM coolant hoses from all the bikes I've broken down and can come up with something in the rare instance I don't feel comfortable. Zero issues with all of the bikes I've built and restored. Honda coolant hoses are pretty damn resilient.

On the o-rings, I really don't think you'll have any problem in the short to medium term. But that is a bummer, it would always be in the back of my head. Is today gonna be the day?

If McMaster doesn't have the the correct Viton sizes, head on over to:

https://www.oringsandmore.com/metric-fkm-orings

 

Haha!

 

Buna was developed by the Nazi's, so you should have known better.


Im such a dissapointment.

 

New insulators are almost like cheating...



Fronts in, went to press the rears in and pretty much when I put my palms on the plenum they went "pop". Throttle cables snap, easy access to the clamp screws without the PAIR BULLSHIT.

Looking good. Feeling good.

 

New insulators are cheating, but it is always worth it. I still struggled a bit on the 88 and the 87 750s, but the 86 500 was too easy. I actually feel like removing them and reinstalling just because...lol

 

The 90 - 97 included angle is more open, with the fronts all the way in, the rear is already nearly in the boot. Unlike the previous Gen.

 

Fired instantly (after putting ground bolt in for wire harness).



Burned off some smoke and the fan cycled a bunch of times.



Zero water, oil or fuel leaks. Engine sounds perfect, my custom D&D sounds pretty killer too. I guess that's a green light to continue.

 

First run video:

 

Nice! That D&D sounds mellower and better than I thought.

 

Thanks! I thought so too. I originally made it for a 1990 that I was flipping, but I was so happy with it, I made another slip-on with a "rebuilt" TB turd.



This one actually sounded really good too, but the muffler was "assembled" by a friend after being smashed. It was NOT worth trying to save. Buh-bye.

 

Well, brake rebuilding time... oh goodie. Bleh. I had to get out the special tool.



Shadow 1100 master cylinder I keep primed and capped just for these occasions. Compressed air wasn't gonna cut it.

Here's one of the front calipers off of the bike.


Not great.

But here's one of calipers from a set I had collected in anticipation.



There we go, that's better. I'll likely just have to clean up a bit and be able to re-use everything. It was a messy afternoon, but mostly behind me. The front masters looked great inside and worked perfectly, as did the rear. I have a full set of stainless lines; front, rear and clutch for this bike too.

The VFR did have near new EBC pads front and rear that luckily didn't get contaminated with any fluids, so that will be nice to not spend more money right now.

 

I've never found much wrong inside of mine. Are yours dirty inside?

I just push the cylinders out a bit on the bikes with a bucket underneath. Simple Green with a toothbrush until clean. Rinse with water. Pull the pads /pins/springs/etc to clean with a brass brush. Reassemble and run them for 1-3 years until they need a clean again.

An AMA team got me on this many years ago and I've never looked back. It is fast and easy, and as long as you keep up with the new fluid/flushes, there's nothing on the inside to clean.

 

That's absolutely what I have been doing for years on items that have been in my service. But since I was going thru the motions and the replacement calipers were new to me, I thought I might as well give them the full going-over and then can maintain them from here. I don't expect to have to buy anything. Clean, inspect, red rubber grease, assemble.

 

100% right for an unknown, and you'll know the starting point for future maint.

 

Proooogress!

 

Used stainless brake lines restored, with new black shrink warp.


Picked up a nice used clutch line and wrapped that too.

 

Calipers going back together. Everything came out nice, no new parts needed.