My RC24 resurrection

There is no doubt that since taking on this project and frequenting this forum, I have fully embraced the mantra of ‘While I’m there, I might as well replace (insert lots of components, seals, O-rings etc here) ‘ , which a few of the regular posters on this thread have encouraged me to do. I suppose I should be grateful! .
Anyway, a couple of hours making to do lists, (I like lists) and writing down part numbers for the fork rebuild in the new year. Brake calipers in the post.
Happy Christmas all. See you on the other side.

 

Yeah. My clean up, tune up turned into 1.4 years of bike on a lift, off lift, on again, wait for powder coat, wait for parts, and I still have items on my "to do" list. lol Merry Christmas and stay warm!

 

Where is this needle bearing headed? 91071-ml7-003


I ask because I pulled two needle bearings out of a linkage before and they are... difficult--to say the least. I had planned to do 6 but I thought i was going to break something (mechanical or myself) by removing the remaining four from the knuckle, so I ended up just spraying out the old grease and grime, re-greasing them, and adding new gaskets.


I'm making my own list for my RC-26, so I'm very interested in yours!

 

Those are the only bearings I did not replace, although I did buy new seals for all of the needle bearings. If and when I have to take the 7 fiddy apart down there, I will replace the seals. I cleaned mine out and repacked with grease as well.

 

I agree. Those needle bearings have a very limited range of motion and simply don't "wear out". Clean and re-grease, unless it is seized or damaged. It's not like something is constantly rotating in complete revolutions in it.

I have NEVER replaced those bearings, in the linkage or swingarms. Same with the seals, I don't even remove them. A basin of gas and an old toothbrush.

 

It’s on the fork as part of the brake mounting (I think).

 

@Colddevil Here you go. According to my Haynes manual, it probably won’t need replacing, but knowing this bike…..

 

Front wheel and fender off. The fender is in really good condition. No cracks or scratches. Front discs are off, ready to get the wheel fully stripped and resprayed, next week. Was hoping to strip out the forks but rain has stopped play. Maybe tomorrow.



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Excellent! Going with white or something else?

 

I had the rear wheel resprayed in ferric grey, so will go with that for the front too.


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Forks out, ready to refurbish next week.



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Are you taking the Anti Dive out and fitting PD valves?

I assume you’re taking the yokes off and doing the steering head bearings …while you’re there

 

Yes to the steering head bearings.

Re. Anti dive, was just going to clean out and fit new seals.


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After a few stupid weeks at work, leaving me with no headspace for nothing else and absolutely terrible weather, meaning no possibility of working on the bike, I finally got around to looking at the forks today. First bit went well enough. Top cap came off, spacer and springs out and 25 year old fork oil. It smelled terrible, as you’d expect.
Time to tackle the bottom socket bolt to get the stanchion out of the slider. I’d heard this might be a tricky one to get out. I’ve been really lucky on this bike so far, with very few bolt and screws putting up much resistant getting them out. Unfortunately, my luck has run out today. Got a hex socket in it ok and it was well engaged but it just rounded the hex socket straight away. The same thing happened on the left fork too.
Not sure what to do. I think the easiest thing to do will be to drill the bolt out. Babbitt’s say it’s an M8, so I’m assuming drill it out with a sharp and new 7.5mm drill and then clean it out with an M8 tap? What do you guys think? Would like to have a go before taking it to the garage to sort.

 

Ok... Always try and crack the bottom bolt first with the pressure from the springs helping hold the damping rod from spinning on you.

When that still fails and the hex strips out (as always), drill it out. Get a new cobalt drill bit slightly bigger than the bolt. The bolt head will release before you get anywhere near the fork stanchion. And you already have the perfect pilot "hole".

 

Thanks Captain. It’s an M8 bolt so should I not use a 7mm drill, so I’m only removing the sort of core material, then take out the excess thread material with an M8 tap?


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An impact wrench with an allen attachment is my favorite thing for loosening those damper rod bolts. I have rounded some in the past with non-impact and it seemed impossible. I'll never not break one loose again any other way. Just did it again tonight on the SV.

As captain mentioned, do it while the spring tension is still on the damper rod. I realize advice this may be a day late and dollar short.

 

Thank you! I’ll give that a go and if that doesn’t work, I’ll take the drill to it!


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FWIW I ended up drilling them out, took less than a minute each leg …using an 8mm drill carefully

 

Thanks Thumbs. Did you leave the spring and spacer in? What size drill did you use, 7? 7.5? 8?


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