Battery and heat?

Alright, thank you again!
The washers on the main spindle, pay attention, got it!!

I think it might be a really poor quality battery?
What would you recommend for a reliable replacement ??

 

A few points which you may want to think about..

12.5 volts on a brand new battery sounds very low - was it suitably filled/charged up before they sent it to you? If not I fear you have probably been sent a dud.

As the FAQs on the website linked below explains, if a new battery is going to fail due to a manufacturing defect, then it will usually be apparent immediately or within a few weeks. If its still fine after a couple of months then it should be good for a decent period of service unless mistreated (deep discharged by leaving lights on etc).

https://www.whitedogbatteries.com/

So what to do? You could possibly get a local garage to load test the current battery for free. OK If it is faulty they will usually expect you to buy a replacement from them - but as you will need one what's the harm and at least you know for sure the eBay bargain is defective and you can ask them to provide you with a report so that you can raise a formal eBay complaint with the seller asking for your money back - which if nothing else may go some way towards covering the cost of buying a replacement from the garage.

Before you fit the new battery and ride off happily into the sunset, you probably should find time to check your charging system does not have an additional fault which is killing the battery.

Basically go through "the drill" TWICE - once with the bike cold and repeat those tests straight after a decent 20 minute fast ride by which time the electrical components will be good and hot and any heat related issues will become apparent even if the bike tests fine when cold.

(See post #9 on this link) http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures

As you can see from than enormously long thread, these bikes have history of electrical gremlins - which often first becomes visible by either the battery getting drained/failing, clocks resetting or the bike just not starting.

Take care - let us know how you get on.

SkiMad

 

Batteries can be a topic like oil and tires.

If I'm buying a conventional sealed battery, I usually stick to Interstate and Yuasa. There is a brand called "Motocross" that is actually Yuasa's "House Brand" and is made in the same factory and they are good batteries. Recently I've had good results with MotoBatt, they are AGM.

Check out this place in Oregon with a great selection and fast processing and shipping, used them a few times.

https://www.batterystuff.com/

But I'm sure there are plenty of places like that around the country.

 

Thanks Brother! I always try to ski happy!!

I have previously done "the drill" and installed a new mosfet R/R and seems to work well, it does charge.
I will test it hot though, I am sure the stator is good. I am pretty sure that system has been dealt with.

back to the skiing, I stay away from the ski area and stick to the backcountry, I do get mad at the ski area!!!

 

Yes, Interstate, copy!

 

Is this another eBay battery? I have a hard time believing it's a starter issue when your jump pack started the bike fine.

Go to the local Honda dealer or battery retailer and get at least a decent AGM in there.

 

I already stated that I doubt that is his problem and gave him advice on a quality battery. Also a jump pack can overcome some problems with its power, like accumulative resistance in older systems and wiring.

 

Deleted..... I see newer replies covering it (The Drill).

 

I purchaced a Chrome Pro battery off of flee-bay at the end of April 2017, six seasons so far. It is a AGM and when I purchased, it had good reviews and a good price.

I contacted them right after it arrived because I was concerned about the apparent leak evidenced by the moisture on the battery and in the shipping box. Their reply was something to the effect that it was moisture from the filling process, and I should not worry unless it continued after drying it off. No other problem with said battery.

 

Yeah thanks, it was a Hirotoshi battery from ProTek.
I will check out your recommendation, but I am looking for something with 480cca and 16 amp/hrs.

 

So, the battery tests "GOOD"!
I am now thinking the stator is failing under load when hot?
Everything seems fine and appears to be charging when cold (volts go up with RPMs)!!
I go for a short ride (20-30min) and let it sit the volts look okay(11.8-12.2) but hit the starter and CLICK volts go below 10??
I've done the R/R with a genuine SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA and it does SEEM to charge???
I tested the stator before and the ohms on all three yellow wires are within spec. (0.4-0.5 ohms)!!!

 

Recommend checking your charging voltage...... if OK (~14V), then a good battery's resting voltage (fully charged) is 12.8-12.9. Your voltages are way too low, so either the battery is toast or it's not getting fully charged. My vote would be the battery.

 

the battery is good on a bench test and fully charged by itself it is 13.5V
in the bike, the voltmeter on the bike says 12.7V turn the key 12.2, start it the volts go down and quickly back up to 12.5V rev the motor back to 12.8
go for a ride it all goes to Shit! Volts all over the place!! gets hot click, click, click will not start!!!

 

If you're not seeing mid to high 13s to low 14s when the bike is running, you are not properly charging, and the battery will go flat.

 

I would also verify your installed voltmeter with a known multimeter comparison.......

 

Yeah thanks guys
The installed voltmeter is always lower than my good multimeter
I still believe it does charge at least a little when cool

 

that was supposed to say charge!?

 

I did find some suspect wires at the battery/fuse block?
The two big red wires look like they have been a little hot!

 

Stators can test OK when cold and fail and start to discharge the bike when hot. All 4 elements of the charging system (stator. RR, Battery, Loom) must be healthy and a fault in any one can potentially damage some or all of the others. Those numbers sound like the charging system is the source of the problem so you can either do the drill tests twice - once with the bike cold and repeat after it has been for a decent 20 minute plus run and everything is up to temperature. Your latest observations suggest you have lost one or more of the stator phases - so yes it will generate some power but not enough for reliable use.

Personally I would put away the multimeter and carefully unbolt stator cover and look inside. If you are greeted by the sight of crisply fried sections on some or all of the windings then replace it. If it definitely looks OK all you have spent is the cost of a replacement stator cover gasket.

 

Thank you, Mad!
I am going to attempt to pull the cover today and get a visual on the stator!!
I will be back later with an update!!!