The VFR that wasn't but now is.

From Penske, with mention of my model year-ish/ UK version.

"Yes, there are different shock lengths. Does your model have the 17” wheel sizes? We have 2 specs, first spec is 279mm e-e and the second spec is 290mm e-e. Unfortunately, the 8975 model won’t work for your VFR, we can’t build it that short. If you could measure your OEM shock fully extended that would help with getting the correct spec. Or if we could get your shock if you are willing to remove it and send it to us."

Once I remove the shock is that essentially "fully extended" or do I need to loosen each end of the shock (make sense?) and unwind each eyelet part?

 

"Fully extended" should be simply removed from the bike. The stock shock does not have separate ride height adjustment and preload doesn't change the length.

290mm with some Plus/Minus on ride height would be perfect provided I'm right about your shock being 285mm. And it sounds like I am due to the fact they have a 290 spec.

 

Alright, got the bike almost down as far as I wanted. I had to stop at removing the swing arm since I didn't have a 12mm Allen (go figure) for the swing arm mount bolts. I spent a lot of time removing and cleaning parts immediately after removal. I learned on the Hawk that I would have appreciated not having to clean every nut and bolt on the "go back together" phase.
This bike definitely has seen rain and no garage. I had to bust out everything but the 6' breaker. Even received my mandatory "cut hand" during hour 3 working on freeing the kickstand.

High points:
1. I am going to use the OEM sub, bodywork, and seat (my possible replacements are either too big or ugly). That means no need to paint the fuel tank or rear bodywork. No new tail section is needed as well. Noice!
2. I discovered that the huge "rear mud flap/ license plate holder" is removable from the rest of the plastic inner well. Noice!! It was super overkill and ugly. Time to hit up EYHonda for a plate holder similar to the Hawk tidy tail. I really don't ride in the rain anymore anyway.
3. The new F2 rear wheel and 929 caliper mod will work once I hone out the bushing in the caliper bracket a whole .002". It is just enough to keep the axle from going through. (yes I tried a hammer, maybe too much).
4. My VFR750 radiator cap fits so many Hondas that I proved out my theory on my new to me ST1100 having cooling issues. That is one cozy ride and once I get some slip-ons, moar v4 power in the house! Cheap, because the guy was too worried about paying someone to fix it. Runs mint, looks like meh, but I am going to cafe it anyway. Makes a great winter bike in Cali. Maybe I will put a surfboard rack on the side. Yeah!
5. Radiator came out real nice. I used the kitchen sink with dawn soap and the mini pressure sprayer on the backside of the fins to push debris out the way in entered. It takes less pressure and works like a charm without bending fins with higher pressure. FYI, my wife was out when I did this so that gave me time to ajax the sink afterward. hehehe
6. Oil drained without showing signs of water intrusion. I was worried since it seems like the bike was hardly serviced.

Low points:
1. I will need some input on the lower left engine mount. Not sure what it is really supposed to look like. Photos to come.
2. Most of the smaller fasteners are crap and corroded all to hell. I will need to purchase half a bike worth of fasteners.
3. A lot of rust coming out of the coolant system. The radiator cleaned nice, but that is alum. I will have to figure out how to clean the rest of the system. I did purchase most if not all of the o-rings for the entire coolant system, so everything will be coming apart. Steal tubes etc.
4. Not enough tools. Now I need the large ass socket for the Hawk rear axle and the large allen for the swing arm.
5. I still don't know why I have the large weldments on the lower portion of the frame, but it makes me concerned for what is under the filth.

 

The shock appears to be 285mm. I will get a more exact length tonight, but from a "on the way to work measurement drive by" that looks pretty close. Just under 11-1/4" Good call Capt.

 

Good progress. WTF is up with that subframe bolt?

 

Yeah.. rusted shady fasteners everywhere. This is going to be a full frame tear down at this point. That was a vice grip and hammer removal technique.
Group question.
Since my fuel petcock doesn't really work (off/reserve/on all act the same), is that just the o-rings or the whole unit? I am putting another order together.

 

I think the price point on those petcocks makes it a bolt on a new one situation. I don't think they are designed to be serviceable, but you can drill out the rivets and purchase rebuild kits that require tapping for screws.

The question mark is the condition of the guts and if a new gasket will even seal. Pretty sure its a 3 orings in 1 type seal.

 

can anyone verify these numbers for the front sprocket?

 

Anyone run iridiums in their bikes? Worth it? 3x cost

 

The standard plugs last SO LONG in these bikes, I wouldn't. But I'm cheap (as in maintaining a fleet).

 

The JT Sprockets catalog lists that sprocket for your VFR (88-89). I would trust it. Plus it's the same as A BUNCH of other Hondas I would expect to be the same too.

JTF333

 

Sheesh, I should just ask you every question..lol Thanks again!!

 

I'm running Denso IUH27 5369 iridiums in mine. I replaced them in march of 2019 and they work just fine. Plug the plug info into your search engine and you'll likely find some on sale.

 

Cool. I will check it out tomorry. Thanks!!

 

16/44 is stock ( I believe). Maybe 45/46 on the rear for a bit more torque over stock? Any experiences with these changes?

 

I find the 6th gear on the VFRs to be quite tall. You could def drop a tooth or two on the rear if you wanted. Keep in mind your new radial rubber (eventually) will likely be lower profile and will also lower your gearing a bit.

Let me double check what the RC26 has, but I think I upped the rear one and it is just fine. It is also NOT the bike that I would choose to eat up Interstate miles either.

 

Awesome! Thanks dude. I don't plan on rollin up and down the I-5 for weeks, just canyon and commute with a smile.

 

So I just noticed once I already disassembled and cleaned up that manual says to take note of the bypass hole on the thermostat. Too late. This fitment seems about the only way the thermostat fits appropriately. Any confirm?

 

So stupid sometimes. Also fits this range.