1986 VF500F California carburetor suggestions needed

Hello all. I have a rebuild thread I started years ago on here somewhere. And I see a bunch of 500 revival threads. So I am hoping to pull some insight. I have had this 500 for 8 years. I have had 2 people work on them. I have a buddy, and then a shop. Either way, I have some money in these carbs. But, in talking with Jamie and paying some closer attention I discovered I have all of the 1986 California emissions stuff minus the actual canister. He said that the CA carbs are a royal pain and to just get new ones off of e-bay. I live in Florida and bought the bike in Kentucky if that helps. I would like to just make what I have work. Or, if getting CA bikes to work is just impossible I'd rather try what I almost did one time and try to install NC35 carbs on there. My '86 500 has 30mm carbs, and so doesn't the NC35. The NC30 are bigger (32?) but the same size as the 84 and 85 500s.

Thoughts, suggestions, insights?

Thank you,
Richard

 

There is absolutely NOTHING on a CA 500 that can't be eliminated and compensated for. It's simply a case of knowing the difference between a vacuum port and a vent and plugging appropriately. ALL of the canisters, valves and extra hoses can be eliminated. The rest is just jetting (typically to 49 State specs for unmodified bikes) plus going up one on the pilot. Even the slide needles will work just fine. I've done it about 10 times on 500s and VFR700/750s.

 

Ok, so how do I tell the difference, and which ones do I plug? And THANK YOU for the information. I was not looking forward to telling the wife I need new carbs. lol

 

Ive got some 86 VFR750F carbs apart on my bench we can use as examples. 1 CA and 1 49. Let me clear some space later this week and I'll snap some pics and give you some examples. I'll see if I can dig out some Cali 500 carbs for comparison too, I think I have a set of 86 Cali somewhere.

Remove EVERYTHING related to Cali from the bike. Your inner fender probably has a hose routing diagram and can help you identify. The only thing you will need actually routing to your carbs is the fuel line from the tank. Save all the hosing and little clamps, we will use it to connect pairs of spigots that will no longer be needed.

 

Wasn't it "block the small holes and leave the big ones"? Totally kidding. California is such a PITA. 11 lbs of smog equipment on my hawk to save essence of fuel from entering the atmosphere. I bet the carbon print alone was 10 times what it was trying to save. Idiot California regulators.

 

hey, but at least pot is legal.

 

Go take a look at Euro 6 emissions standards. California is pretty low on the emission villain scale. Easily defeated and currently not checked.

 

Motorcycles are not too bad, although I had to provide emissions sticker for my bike just to reg from a different state. A 1980's emissions sticker..wtf. who cares...
Cars can defeat with performance software but that is expensive $1500+ and you hope that it doesn't fail down the road with a non-stock software related issue.
That Euro 6 is going to be painful for moto manufacturers. Enjoy your old bikes as much as possible.

tru dat Squirrel

 

Oh, I do. About day 3 or 4 of trying to access components and systems on my friend's 2003 VFR VTEC/ABS/LBS/TCS/BS/WTF/JFC, it is now affectionately knows as:

The SFS - Stupid Fucking Spaceship

 

My Tuono was beautiful in every way except for all the tech just to change out the muffler from stock. JFC indeed.

 

That would be a huge help, thank you!

Here's the deal I have with my wife. I get the 500 running and registered (another issue), and I can get my motorcycle license. I had it years before I met her. She's betting that since I've had the bike for 8 years and it has never run that she is safe.

I am also trying to resurrect my old blog and podcast back up to a hobbyist level. If successful at getting my license the other part of the bet/agreement is I get to see if I can get a hold of some bikes and action cameras and make some YouTube videos this summer.

So I have some stuff on the line here.

 

I happen to have some 86 500 CA carbs. You need to plug these 5 locations. I will usually try and run some of the original Honda hose that I removed and just connect the 4 outside in pairs. Easy and reliable. And then get a VERY GOOD cap to plug the last guy in the middle. That one must stay well sealed, it's vacuum that used to activate a valve for the emissions equipment.



The last item is the main vent line. Just run enough hose so it can be secured and pointed down. Sometimes I run it to a small crankcase filter like Uni.


Any extra spigots on the airbox that are below the air filter need to be plugged as well. There should be one hose from the airbox that routes to the crankcase breather catch tank, just like a 49 state bike. Going from memory on the airbox, so take some pics and inquire if it's ambiguous.

There ya go, you just de-smogged a 500 Interceptor. Pretty basic. Go to 49 state jets, including 38 on the pilot. Better yet, go to a #40 on the pilot if you are getting one. Start with your fuel screws at 1-3/4 full turns out from lightly seated, perhaps going to 2 if needed. Start at 2 to 2-1/4 if running a #38. Be sure you have the small washer and o-ring for those screws, CRITICAL. Although not absolutely needed, shim the slide needles .5mm (half millimeter). You can get the perfect washers on ebay that are used on R/C cars.

Anybody that claims problems doing this has other issues.

Exact same procedure for a VFR700/750F.

 

DUDE, that's amazing! Thank you. I haven't had time this weekend to touch the bike. I will try to start working on it after work with my little boy. I gotta up the quality of daddy time, so that should be a fun way to do it. Thank you again.

 

That does remind me, will the fuel line setup look any different? There's a video on youtube I can use to get them correct if they don't. And best place to order jets?

 

Fuel lines don't change. Big one from petcock to splitter, then to the two inlets you see in the second pic.

Jets-R-us or ebay. Just compare prices. Go genuine Keihin to play it safe. #40 pilot, they like it stock or modified. It's the sweet spot and the fuel screw can compensate either way.