brake bleed 5th gen

Ordering a full Spiegler kit for my '98, and the brake bleed process looks quite complicated.

What is the correct order for a 5th gen? Also, my Haynes manual gave a process that was quite complicated, at one point even removing a brake caliper and tilting it to 15 degrees. Is that necessary?

 

It looks more complex than it is. If the Haynes is a good copy of the shop manual, following the steps is not a big deal assuming you know how to bleed 'normal' brakes. For the tilted caliper, I did it as suggested.

 

Agreed, it isn't too bad really. I did mine when I installed the Galfer kit. I followed the instructions in the service manual and it went super smooth. I also tilted the left caliper because the bleed point isn't the lowest part of the caliper when it is on the fork, which is why you should tilt it. I used about 2/3 of a quart bottle of brake fluid to do all the brakes and the clutch. I used a MityVac to get the fluid started and then Speedbleeders to finish the job. If you use a MityVac or something similar you'll need to seal the threads of the bleeders or you'll draw air around the threads.

I'd go look at my service manual, but it's at home in Missouri and I'm in Wyoming/Utah/Colorado riding. :biggrin:

 

I followed the instructions in the factory service manual as well and the whole process went really smooth. Tilting the caliper as FJ said is to make sure you bleed all the air out of the system. A vacuum bleeder certainly is a help when doing this type of job. Another thing I did before I started was to use the vacuum bleeder to suck most of the fluid out of the master cylinder before starting and then used an old toothbrush to gently scrub around the edges of the master cylinder to clean out the residue that was sticking to the walls. The fluid in the master cylinder was quite brown when I purchased the bike. I then re-filled the master cylinder and emptied it a couple of times so that the fluid stayed clean when I added more. I started the bleed procedure once I made sure all the dirty fluid had been emptied from the master cylinder.

Also, make sure that you don't get any brake fluid on the painted surfaces of the bike. Brake fluid will eat paint very quickly.

 

Here is a quick instruction set I took from the FSM for when I did mine.

Bleeding VFR brakes
Need to remove rear wheel before you start. You also need to remove front/rear mount bolts on tank and lift up to access central bleed fitting and remove the rear cowling to access rear fluid reservoir.

1.) Outer bleeder on left, front caliper
2.) Outer bleeder on right, front caliper
3.) Center bleeder on right, front caliper
4.) Center bleeder on left, front caliper
5.) Remove left front caliper and tilt about 10 degrees
6.) PCV bleeder at rear of gas tank
7.) Re-install front, left brake caliper
8.) Center bleeder on rear brake caliper
9.) Outer bleeder on rear brake caliper

Finish by performing traditional bleeding process at all points, ensuring brake lever and pedal feel solid.


I only replaced my front lines and actually found that all I needed to do was steps 1 - 4. I didn't remove the rear plastics either.

If you work the PCV and rear caliper it actually draws from the rear fluid reservoir and that is why you have to remove the rear plastics. You have to keep the rear fluid topped up or introduce air and have to start over.

I used a vacuum bleeder that ran off my compressor. You NEED to get something like that or you will be battling to get the lines full/bled.

Jose

 

Yes! Vacuum bleeder that runs off your compressor is the way to fly! Mighty-Vac comes to mind. Once you use one, you wont ever wana not have it on your side...Cheers

 

I replaced the fluid in the front brake as specified in the manual Saturday night, but I'm a little hesitant to do the rear system, as all I have is a hand-operated bleeder and I'm not sure it's up to the task of doing the entire rear system at once.

 

Thanks Dahose, I was waiting for someone to list the sequence. I have always used a Mity Vac and am going to give it a go with that.
One question, we have to tilt the fuel tank to get the tool on the bleed valve that is at the back right of the tank that is visible with the tank mounted, right?

 

I had to lift mine a bit because the bracket was in the way. This is on a '99.

 

I went and bought a mity-vac and am about ready to try this.

Can anyone tell me which reservoirs supply which bleed points? Just want to be aware, when I start sucking fluid from the PCV or one of the linked nipples, which reservoir should I watch to make sure I keep topped up so I don't run too low to suck in air.

Thanks

 

When you bleed the outer/inner fronts, it is the handlebar reservior. The other bleed points are the rear. Once you finish bleeding everything and are confident the lines are full of fluid, cycle the brake a BUNCH of times. You can see air bubbles rise from the master cylinder return. It will eventually start to firm up and that is when do the traditional method. You just go by feel and it will all work out.

Jose

 

Thanks very much, that is great info.

 

One thing to add to all this info. It really helps to take out all the bleed nipples and reinstall with teflon tape around the threads. Without it, you suck too much air from around the threads, compromising the action of the vacuum bleeder.

 

I've got both the MityVac and the Speedbleeders. If you're not starting from a completely empty system the Speedbleeders are the better option. Like Buzzard posted: the MityVac will suck air from around the threads.

The best of both worlds is to have the MityVac and Speedbleeders. :smile:

 

I never even

I never even knew about having to bleed the brakes here at the PCV valve!!

 

curious, so labor cost wise, at what point would you say nah, i'll just let a mechanic do this? I got a quote for $80 to do brakes and clutch. which i admit i'm tempted to just let them do it.

 

That's good but only if you trust them to do it right. The last time I done the brakes myself and thought I'd bled them ok but never knew about the pcv bleed valve so I only half done them.

 

Might be worth it. That was one of the most frustration jobs I have done a bike. I never got it 100% to my liking.