Starter Clutch Repair VFR750 With Pictures

Reassembled today, new gasket, oil, Checked torque on everything. Hit the starter button and click, nothing else. Any ideas? I'm going to bleed my clutch master cylinder since I noticed spongy lever pressure. Not sure it's fully disengaging the safety switch


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Also the click was further rearward. Starter relay, I guess


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The part with the 2 long raised sections is from an 86 VFR. One year only on this part. The 87-97 all look the same with the smaller 11 raised sections. The raised bits are the crank triggers that the pulse generators get a signal from to send to the ignition box.

 

Mine cranks then starts buzzing like it's not engaging, Possible same problem?

 

Nice to know, as I almost bought the wrong one... I'm having this issue now, so I've been browsing for parts, but the part for the 86 seems to be discontinued everywhere. Will it be possible to use the one for the newer bikes on an 86?? Any tips on finding 28120-ML7-000 (86 starter clutch outer housing) would be much appreciated!!

Edit: after rereading a few posts here I see that this isn't possible. Bummer. Hopefully I'll only need the springs and rollers then...

 

Regarding which starter clutches are compatible, you need one from anything from 1990 - 1996. Actually, this could be confusing. Put it this way, the starter clutches from the 1990 - 1996 are compatible with each other.

 

If you lean the bike over to the left then you don't have to drain the oil or anything. Just make sure the engine casing in clean around the joint section prior to loosening anything

 

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread. Will reassembling with the recommended Loctite 270 give me problems when removing the starter clutch in the future?
Thank you

 

https://googlethatforyou.com?q=Locktite 270

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_270.html

"Permits disassembly with hand tools"

 

Also: "Can be disassembled by heating to 300°C"

"Permanent locking"

I've read plenty of horror stories of people not being able to break loose bolts where high strength Loctite was used. Just want to make sure I won't be shooting my future self in the foot by using this.

 

To me, "disassembled by heating to 300 C" means that if you heat it to 300C, it completely melts the glue and you are back to normal as it no longer has any adhesive properties. "Permits disassembly with hand tools" means....you can break the bond of the glue with hand tools, but the glue itself still remains on the parts. If you want to re-adhere said parts again, you'll need to remove the glue completely (by heating to 300C) and starting over with new adhesive.

 

Got it, thanks. I have no experience with the high strength stuff

 

Ok, what I need to line up after I do the springs and rollers change or even whole clutch? Can I make some mistake? What are the markings on the clutch for?
Or can I just take if off and replace and put it back on the bike?

What about that little pin that I should took from old clutch and put on the new one? More explanation please, or maybe pictures.

 

Lots of pictures etc. on page 1 of this thread.

 

I saw them, I know how to disassemble and put it back but do I need to align these markers with something? Author didn't say anything about them so I guess not?

 

Sorry am I missing something here??
Are you referring to the timing marks on the face of the splined clutch? You can't misalign the marks because the spline is keyed, it will only go back on the shaft in one position only!

 

does that help you?

 

And the faceplate has the pin that aligns it.

 

Ok thanks guys