No spark on my 2000 basket case need help

So i got pretty far this weekend at the expense of taking time to post photos of the parts i will be putting up for sale,..

Got it all tore down, only real issues i see:

1) Soft front end/ forks will likely need rebuilt

2) right side radiator likely needs replacing but if im going streetfighter so what those will get re-engineered anyway

3) NO SPARK,..


So i got it all sorted out enough that im cranking the engine and it sounds brisk just like my '06, spinning nice and quick,.. just no spark,.. now I absolutely DO have a crushed engine stop sensor,.. will this kill spark?,.. what does this sensor do?, can i jumper it out for now?

Also~ does anyone know how the coolant flow goes on a 5th gen?,.. i want to start thinking through how i will potentially re-do the cooling system if i go that route.

 

No not coolant under the bike thats oil from me yanking the plugs and oiling from the spark plug holes so it wasnt starting up dry on the rings..

It was a fun weekend, fun as hell getting her up again..

 

The engine stop sensor aka tipover switch needs to be functional or jumpered between the white/black and orange/red wires. It provides power to the engine stop relay, when triggered that provides power to everything else including fuel pump, injectors and the spark plugs.

The engine stop sensor is intended to cut the fuel and sparks in the event of a fall. It is basically a gravity tip switch that latches if activated, and needs to be powered off/on to return to normal function.

 

Ok thank you!,.. my engine stop sensor is completely crushed,.. unfortunately its a three wire feed to the sensor, anyone know which two of the wires to tie together to temporarily bypass the crushed sensor? I need to establish the state of things with the motor before i go actually buying parts to get her totally functional again, just want to hear her fire first.

I will check out the tip over switch too..

 

Ok so i was calling it my engine stop sensor but i found a link online~ it is the upper cowl mounted bank angle sensor that is crushed,..

Anyone know how to jump it out?,.. i dont want to cause a fault elsewhere jumpering it incorrectly.

 

Ok so the red circled component is my bank angle sensor that is crushed,..

I am thinking i simply tie red to green and safe end white,..

Anyone have any input on my thinking?,.. i just dont want to fry my ignition control module while trying to bypass this silly bank angle sensor.

Thanks guys i will check in tomorrow before i get into it again.

 

These are from my 5G service manual but I'm sure will be the same on the 6G. I believe you are correct that the tipover switch provides a path to ground for the engine stop relay so connecting the Red/White to Green sounds correct. You should hear the relay clicking if you get it right.

 

Well the bank sensor is bypassed but still no spark,..

I cant see anything else damaged electrically,..

Fudge-SICKLE

 

Im no spark with ether straight into the throttle bodies, is there any reason the tank wiring being disconnected would kill spark?

 

My dash is utterly gone, is there anything on the dash with these connections being off that could kill my spark?

 

I have no voltage to the coil wires on the feed side,.. i should have 12v when ignition and run switches are on is that right?

 

It is absolutely NOT my kill switch,.. just metered that all out& all is well.

 

Is the engine stop relay working? How about the fuel pump? You should get a 5 second burst of power to the pump with key on, then it should run constantly while cranking.

 

Tank is off bike, so once i turn the ignition on i should see that momentary voltage right,.. on the fuel pump wiring?

I have yet to troubleshoot the engine stop relay~ that is next.

 

Yes you should see 12V across the fuel pump wires momentarily when you first turn the ignition key to on (and the kill switch is in run position).

Definitely confirm the engine stop relay is functioning, I have no doubt that would prevent any spark action. The black wire should have 12V to ground, the ground path for the solenoid is the red-orange leading through the BAS to ground (or direct to green if you bypass that). If the solenoid is working you will presumably hear the click, and then have continuity between the black/pink and the black/white at the ESR. The black/pink should have 12V to ground in any case. When the solenoid is live, you should then have 12V to ground on any black/white wire (which includes the coils).

 

Right on i'll check it out!!

 

How goes the progress on getting her back running again your motorcycle Brian?