Oil level rising

I think if it was a valve the wet test would've stayed at 10 psi. I'll test again tomorrow . Maybe oil ring is ok and compression rind is toast

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How's your fuel mileage? Dos the exhaust smell rich? Could a bad injector flood that cylinder and cause premature wear? I still think that plug would look different though.

 

Carbon build up in the channel for the ring on the piston can cause them to stick.

 

That's what I'm hoping

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I am going to throw this out there. 10psi is nothing. Even with a stuck ring(s) you should get triple that. It just seems to me that you have a bigger hole than a stuck ring problem. The last stuck ring I saw was on a 1959 MGA and the engine had been exposed to the elements. It just doesn't seem like a ring problem. I have you checked valve clearance?

I would consider a head gasket leak into the cooling system but at 10psi it would be popping hoses off.

 

Sounds more logical, carbon on valve stem or on seat. But doesn't explain oil level rising.

 

Have you run it since the injectors were cleaned? Those plugs look fouled, i would install standard NGK's back in it and see what she does.

 

No it hasn't been started since the injectors were cleaned. I did another compression test today and it was at 125 psi would still have some oil in there though. I'm going to put the airbox and tank back on and start it and see what happens

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I'd be really tempted to take it for a thrashing...

It will either fix it or not... at that point you are into rebuild time anyway

 

Dump a bunch of SeaFoam in the tank and go for it, who knows.

 

Any update on this? I'm curious because my bike has similar problems.

 

Sorry been busy, cleaned injectors back in , last compression test on #2 cylinder read 110psi , bike started on 3 cylinders, #2 cylinder not firing. Spark to all 4 plugs. When i pulled plugs today after trying to start it 3 smelled of fuel but #2 was dry. Me thinks might have been an intermittent problem with power to injector/faulty injector. Bought myself a hayabusa (awesome !) But can't let the vfr go without a fight. Any ideas welcome. Can I pull the injector harness plug and put a test light on #2 injector and turn it over to see if there's power to it rather than pull throttle bodies back off ?

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After a re read I was going to suggest this, spray some Sea foam in the cylinder of #2 then put some in the tank, I've seen it work it's magic, great stuff. it works "IF"

 

In rare cases, on hemi heads removing the sparkplug can loosen a bit of carbon that could fall upon an open valve and seat and leak compression, which should be apparent after listening to four compression strokes through carbs and exhaust.

 

110psi is enough to fire.
Plus one re SeaFoam, it will break down carbon buildup.

 

Just thought that I should add my findings regarding my own bike. I think I finally solved my trouble, which is eerily similar to the OP's original problem. I took the long route to my (hopefully) happy ending, in that I changed air filter, pulled the injectors and had them cleaned (didn't find any fault, but did lighten my wallet), changed all vacuum hoses, changed the FPR, changed the spark plugs, did a compression test (had to buy the equipment), synced the starter valves, cleaned all electrical connections that I could find, all without finding a definite fault or making anything noticeable better.

What finally did it though, was the total removal of the PAIR system. It had been previously modded by a PO by disconnecting the electrical connection to the solenoid valve, but the valve was constantly open (either by design or my valve is broken). I had tried to remedy this by plugging the air feeder hose with a marble, but this must have leaked as well. My curiosity may have saved me, for I decided I needed to see how the reed valves of the PAIR actually worked, and when dismantling the back valves I found them really sooty and unable to close. This probable made my engine run on partial recirculated exhaust gases, which the ECU can't detect (it just finds the air intake temperature really high I guess) and injects petrol for totally fresh air. This in turn makes the exhaust gases contain petrol, which makes the recirculated gas also contain petrol and it's a double whammy and the result in the end is really rich running.

I'm still not totally convinced my troubles are over, but the short trips I've made since removing everything have been positive. The surging at constant speed are gone. The exhaust smells more exhausty and less of fuel (not 100% yet, but there's probably a burnt out cat in there totally soaked in old petrol).

Moral of the story is that if you're trying to modify anything, make sure you do it correctly and don't rely on previous owner to know jack sh.. about anything. And also that stuff breaks, often randomly. And also, get a bigger bank account if possible before getting into old bikes. And a patient life partner. And independent kids... In short - get a better life before trying to get a better bike. If not possible, take a loan and buy new. Bike that is, not life partner.

 

Thanks for a really informative post!

 

Just an update for anyone wondering what the outcome of this was, I found the positive wire to #2 injector plug was loose so I soldered both and once all back together it's running as good as new on all 4 cylinders and I've been riding to work daily app 90klm a day for 2 weeks and oil level is spot on. So somehow having injectors cleaned, dropping 30ml of engine oil down the cylinder to do wet compression test and soldering injector plug wires the problem seems to be solved. I also flushed fuel filter while tank was off . Thanks all for your input and help guys

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That's great news! Who would have thought that a VFR would have a loose wire?